I tried to remove the engine mount to put the new one in and i had all the bolts removed from up top but i couldn't get to the star shaped bolt under neath what size is that bolt or torx thing the car has 40k and its an 05 cooper s thanks frank

 

Looking in the Bentley Manual it appears you will need a BMW special tool #11 8 380. I haven't done this and haven't a clue as to where you will be able to acces this tool. Some one on here may have a work around for the lack of this tool

 

It is a Torx E12 head; E sockets can be purchased separately from Snap-On etc. or an inexpensive set is available under the Lisle brand at Sears.

 

Hi there,

Just did this job this weekend on my '04 with the later style mount and bracket. Aside from the E12 external torx socket (which are indeed available at Sears, $19 at my local store), it can all be done with the usual tools--ratchet, small breaker bar, extensions, E12 torx socket, 16mm socket, 18mm socket, 13mm socket, phillips screwdriver. Torque wrench is desirable to retorque to stock specs. You'll also need at least one floor jack and jackstand.

Here's my procedure. Complete at your own risk. If you hurt yourself, it's your own fault.

1. Jack up passenger front corner and support on jackstand. Raise both corners if you like, but either way you don't need to raise it a lot. Set steering to full right lock. Passenger front wheel can stay on if you prefer as it really doesn't get in the way. Make sure car is stable before you place yourself underneath! Danger, Will Robinson, danger.

2. Support engine under passenger side with floor jack and block of wood to spread load over pan. Don't lift the engine--just support it enough so that it'll stay properly located when you remove the mount.

2. Remove four or five plastic fasteners closest on the splash shield in passenger front wheel well. You don't need to remove it but you will need to be able to gently bend/move it out of the way to access that bottom e-torx bolt. The fastener closest to the strut housing, those in the middle of the wheel well and then those that line the bottom edge are what you need to remove.

3. With breaker bar and all your extensions (and possibly swivel adapter depending on your skill), break loose the e-torx bolt underneath mount. It'll take some force but then it unscrews easily. Remove this bolt.

4. Up top now...making sure the engine is supported, remove the 18mm nut on top of the mount, and then remove the 13mm nut holding the ground wire to the engine mount bracket. Don't drop the bolt that's captive in the mount--once you free the nut and strap, this small bolt will fall out of the bottom of the mount if you aren't ready to catch it!

5. With your breaker bar, an extension, and your 16mm socket, break loose the four bolts holding the bracket to the cylinder head. Be careful as there is another small sensor and bracket held to the cylinder head with one of the forward bolts...it will need to be held clear of the bracket when you remove it. Use your ratchet to remove the bolts.

6. At this point, the bracket can be removed. You have to maneuver it out around the wires and hoses, being careful not to scrape the passenger side strut support. It will clear once you find the right angle, but it's a multi-step process. Set the bracket aside.

7. With your breaker bar and 16mm socket, break loose the bolt holding the mount to the passenger side strut support. Remove with ratchet.

8. Remove old mount! If yours has been puking up hydraulic fluid like mine did, you'll have a fine mess on the frame rail. I got 95% of the stains up off my Pepper White paint with Simple Green and a toothbrush-sized soft bristle detail brush.

9. New mount goes in same way the old one came out. I did the e-torx bolt and the mount-to-strut support bolts first, mainly so that I could loosely locate it with the e-torx bolt, fasten it down and torque the mount-to-strut support bolt per Bentley, and then torque the lower bolt. You can't fit a torque wrench on that upper bolt after you replace the bracket.

10. Replace bracket, locating it over the motor mount stud and guide pins (cast into the top of the mount as well...you'll see 'em). Being sure to replace that small sensor bracket up front, run all the bolts down snug with your ratchet and then torque them to spec per Bentley.

11. Replace 18mm nut on motor mount stud. Replace ground wire. Re-install plastic fasteners on splash shield. Remove wood block and jack supporting engine.

12. Lower car and double-check your torques if you're paranoid like me.

Hope this is useful! I noticed a real improvement after replacing the mount.

 

Thanks a lot, GoLikeSchnell!! I am about to tackle this engine mount replacement and found your detailed step by step instructions. Could you also give the torque specs for each of the bolts?

Thanks again.

 

I just used these instructions on a 2005 s automatic today. This was a really good DIY

 

Did anyone ever find and post these torque specs? I need to replace the upper mount on my wife's 08 and would like to know that I got the bolts back to the right torque. Thanks!

 

i may have just been lucky, but i was able to use a 3/8 12 point socket for that lower bolt

 

1AZ Engine support bracket to engine mount M12x1.5 - 68 Nm
2AZ Engine support bracket to engine / adapter plate M12x93 - 66 Nm
11AZ Grounding cable to engine support bracket M8 nut - 13.5 Nm

from here: http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/09/81/59

 

i need help fixing mine on my 04 r53. its been leaking and can u just replace the whole thing or do replace the rubber part inside??? i really need to replace it tho

 

Already answered this in the other thread. You can't replace the rubber parts, you have to replace the entire unit.

 

i purchased the tsw one after talking to a couple mini experts anyone have one and know if its worth an extra 100?

 

It will likely be the last one you buy. I have installed one in the past and it looked to be like a solid unit. Guess it is really up to you to determine if you want to spend the extra cash. I have installed two on my MINI already.

 

As stated you probably won't ever have to worry about it again, but it may also add some interior noise/vibration. Different people report differently as with everything, but I guess that will be up to you.

I replaced mine on my 06' not too long ago with a stock one and added a VIP stability bar to hopefully prevent as much load on it and extend its life a little

 

Golikeschnell, you wouldn't happen to have the torque spec numbers for the bolts would you?

 

i failed at this today.

the goddamn e12 torn wouldn't come off.. probably due to all the oil leak that smeared and hardened etc etc...

 

I feel your pain hoonpv, every job seems to have that one Flipping thing... I wonder (with the engine supported)
remove the top bolt, the brace and the 4bolts that attach the bushing bracket to the engine (there's a few other parts but those are the main ones...)
Anyways, with all that moved could you turn the rubber bushing and back it off the bolt?
Anyone else know if this might work?

 

I didnt think of trying that because i am doing autocross tomorrow so i had to put the car back together. But yeah, even with the breaker bar, i couldnt get it off... I might have to go to a shop to do it.

 

Might take a little pounding as they do get corroded in there. They can be a pain. When you do get it off, put a little anti-seize on it for the next time around.

 

put a pipe on the end of your breaker bar, get some good old fashion leverage on it and give it a go.

 

Way Motors offered a new bolt for an extra $4. Sounds like you should order a new one and just twist the old one off. Big cheater bar!

 

Great writeup.

I too had trouble with the E12 torx bolt. In fact, it seems like a previous owner may have replaced it once and rounded the bolt slightly, so I really rounded it with the E12 socket I had. The other possibility is that I was at a slight angle with the giant extension and the initial turn with the breaker bar rounded it off.

I had to hammer in a 3/8 12 point socket to loosen it.

When the bolt was out of the car, I hammered on the E12 socket and put it back on with the socket still hammered in place. Once in place, the socket came off pretty easily.

One should replace that bolt if it's sheared, but it wasn't an option. The next time I have to replace it, I may just drill it out if it's a problem again.

Hopefully that helps for anyone in that position.

 

Thanks for the how to do it. Other than getting to it, the Torx bolt proved to e not a big issue once I got it moving. Cleaned up the oil crust with an orange based cleaner. Small problem with getting the bracket bolts lined up with the engine- didn't realize that my jack had settled. No harm- no foul once I jacked up again. Overall not a very hard job thanks to you. I suggest taking the wheel off. It's not a big deal and does make getting the wheel well plastic goodies a little easier. I saved 2/3 of what the dealer wanted by getting the part online and doing it myself. Thanks again!

 

Has anybody tried changing their motor mount this way instead of the normal way?

 

I am not sure what you are asking? I think that posts describes briefly what needs to be done. What two methods are you comparing?

Incidentally, my friend has a lift in his garage so accessing the bottom torx but was easy using an extension and coming at it from below. No need to remove the plastic splash shield.