I'm having an intermittent idle problem. I had oringinally posted it in the CEL/Engine Sputtering Issues, but had the SW update and still have the problem. It has only happened 4 times since owning the car for 4.5 months. But on those times after the car is warmed up and I make a stop, when I restart the car the idle fluctuates widly between 400 and 1000 rpm. The car is driveable as long as you manually keep the rpm up, but when you come to a stop to brake and come out of gear the idle may go to zero. On all occasions it eventually cut off on me this way, three times in heavy traffic, once turing left across traffic. Funny thing is the next time you start the car, and it can be just minutes later, it starts fine and acts like nothing happened clearing the problem. In fact SA asked me to check and see if just restarting by removing the key fob and reinserting solves the problem. I checked and the car started fine and acted like nothing happend!! When it does happen, it doesn't throw any fault codes. (In my limited internet searches, I did find that the mass air flow sensor can cause idle problems without throwing codes, throttle position switch, and idle control valve also suspects). On two occasions I seemed to get a wide open throttle as I was pulling away. The car just took off. I've also noticed the idle during 'normal' periods, which is most of the time. Even then the idle seems to move around when the engine is warmed up. I should note that all these problems occur with the ac off. I drive a MC manual. I had a pm with another mc manual owner, his idles rock solid at 800 rpm ac off and 900 rpm with ac on. Mine is similar, when I come to a stop the idle does dip below 800 a little and may waver about instead of being rock solid at 800. Not sure if this is indicative of a problem or not.

I'm really at my wits end with this. The SW fix didn't fix it, when it happened again I told the dealer it was unsafe to drive and they had a flat bed bring it in (90 miles away). They kept it a week, drove it around (300 miles), couldn't repeat it and sent it back. They apparently won't do anything until it happens to them. They won't even start a PUMA case until it happens to them. (What's a puma case and why can't they get help on a problem without seeing it themselves?) I called miniusa, they called the service manager, then the SA called and said they'd come get it again, but said all they would do is try to drive it some more to try to get it to happen so they can do something. They don't seemingly want to diagnose the problem based on my description and replace anything until it happens to them. Before I called miniusa their response was drive it to hard failure. I don't feel safe doing that, hence they are coming to get it. What am I to do? I would think given the safety aspect of the problem they would start replacing sensors, parts etc to try to isolate the problem, given it is a safety concern.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do, or what the problem may be???

 

my first guess is that it could be a vac. leak associated with the idle circuit or past the sensor...

I'd also check to see what your state's lemon law is and go down that road...
in NJ, the dealer has 6 shots to fix the same problem in X #yrs... then if you wish, the MUST buy the car back...

HTH

 

Yea, I'm going to talk to my attorney sometime this week. If I let them come get it this week, that will be the third time. I mentioned this to both the dealer and miniusa. Their contention is that since they haven't seen the problem, they haven't really tried to fix it yet. I really love the car other than the few times this problem has shown up.

I'm leaning toward electrical not vacuum as the car drives fine if you have the idle problem, the idle just has to be kept up with your foot manually.

 

Actually an NJ dealer has 3 shots in 2 years and you can start the issue with the state if you feel the dealer/MINI is jerking you round.

 

Video tape the issue, send a copy to them when they come get the car.