any instructions out there?

what kinda pads do i need to get?>??

 

The fronts are a joke. The only thing that is kind of a pain is the clip retainer for the front of the caliper. Rears are a different animal all together. If you've done fronts, you're fine. If you've never done rears, you might wanna get help because turning the piston is a PITA. As far as pads, it depends on what you wanna do. Drive hard or have some track time planned, get Hawks. Do mostly street or some spirited driving, EBC or any equivilant is good.

 

turning the piston? i was only gonna change the pads... not mess witht he rotors..

do or have u heard anythign about the brake sensors?

 

Only the rear piston has to be spun. The fronts just push in. As far as the wear sensor, if you don't have it, don't worry. If you do, they advise you to replace it when the brakes are done. I have a 10 of 2002 built car as an 03 and I don't have it.

 

i have the sensor... that's how i figured i needed new brakes! : ) lol

know anything about the hawk brakes or EBC or the green stuff? anything i can buy at the local parts store?

 

Sure, but the breakes really have to want to change.

 

Here are the how to's:
Front
Rear

 

Pep Boys is the only place I know of that carry EBC even available. I know other stores can second source them but none in stock. Don't pay their price. I got hella lucky and found a front and rear set on EBay for $100. I have EBCs and they work fine but I kinda wish I tried the Hawks instead. A friend who does NASA days has them and drives hard on them. No complaints on his end.

 

WOW, GREAT LINKS, had I seen them before asking a buddy to help me I may have done them on my own, will for sure next time.

The Fronts are a walk in the park. To do the rears you need that Tool that spins the piston.

Replace all 4 corners at the same time. Be sure and open the brake fluid too.

I zip tied my senors back behind the brakes. Since I rotate my tires every 6K I check the pads and rotors at the same time.

 

Ditto on zip tying the sensor up when you replace the pads. If you have broken the existing sensor you will either need to replace it, or cut the cable open and splice the wires together to close the circuit. They you will need to turn the key into position 2 for about 30 seconds to get the dash light to go off.

I have the EBC Greenstuff pads, and while they are lower dust than stock, I think I'll try the Hawks next time based on what I've read on NAM.

I would also recommend changing the rotors at the same time.

The tool to push/spin the piston can be found at Harbor Freight for around $35, and works on several other types of cars as well.

Good luck with your project!

 

Ditto on zip tying the sensor up when you replace the pads. If you have broken the existing sensor you will either need to replace it, or cut the cable open and splice the wires together to close the circuit. They you will need to turn the key into position 2 for about 30 seconds to get the dash light to go off.

I have the EBC Greenstuff pads, and while they are lower dust than stock, I think I'll try the Hawks next time based on what I've read on NAM.

I would also recommend changing the rotors at the same time.

The tool to push/spin the piston can be found at Harbor Freight for around $35, and works on several other types of cars as well.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732
watch for the regular sale and git 'er for $20

Good luck with your project!


{btw - EBC pads have slots for the sensors...don't know about Hawks}