Car won't start... it's not the battery
#1
Car won't start... it's not the battery
Good morning, and happy holidays, all! I'm having problems starting my '03 MCS... I posted something on another thread but since I've ruled out the battery I'm hoping that this is worth posting to a new thread. On Monday, I went out to run some errands. The car started fine, and up until now I've had no starting issues, except maybe the occasional rough cold start. I got gas (93 octane from Sam's Club--no ethanol), drove about 7 miles to go to a store, was in the store for about 5 min., started up, came home. I tried to go back out 30 min. later and the car wouldn't start. All the electronics worked, I could hear the fuel pump prime, but the starter didn't engage. We tried to jump start the car and still nothing. This is the first time this has ever happened.
This morning we went out to get a new battery, b/c even though we weren't sure the battery was the primary issue (it tested good but I couldn't see the green LED unless I shone a flashlight into it), it was 4 years old and either way I needed a new one. We put the new battery in and still nothing. We then push started the car with no problem... my husband hand pushed it down from our carport and as soon as I released the clutch with it in reverse it started immediately and ran fine.
So... I guess I've ruled out the battery, major problems with the engine, fuel system, bad gas, and ignition? I've also had no noticable clutch problems after 55K miles. I also checked all the fuses and they're fine.
Does this sound like a clutch switch issue, starter, or could it be more serious?
After starting none of the warning lights light up. Is it possible for it to throw a code without causing the check engine or any other warning lights to come on? If so, I could take it to an auto parts place and have them check for any warning codes.
I tried calling the dealer and am still waiting on a call back... I was told it could be a while, so I doubt I'll be able to get an appt. anytime soon. My closest dealer is 70 mi. away.
This morning we went out to get a new battery, b/c even though we weren't sure the battery was the primary issue (it tested good but I couldn't see the green LED unless I shone a flashlight into it), it was 4 years old and either way I needed a new one. We put the new battery in and still nothing. We then push started the car with no problem... my husband hand pushed it down from our carport and as soon as I released the clutch with it in reverse it started immediately and ran fine.
So... I guess I've ruled out the battery, major problems with the engine, fuel system, bad gas, and ignition? I've also had no noticable clutch problems after 55K miles. I also checked all the fuses and they're fine.
Does this sound like a clutch switch issue, starter, or could it be more serious?
After starting none of the warning lights light up. Is it possible for it to throw a code without causing the check engine or any other warning lights to come on? If so, I could take it to an auto parts place and have them check for any warning codes.
I tried calling the dealer and am still waiting on a call back... I was told it could be a while, so I doubt I'll be able to get an appt. anytime soon. My closest dealer is 70 mi. away.
Last edited by lowb35; 12-26-2007 at 08:33 AM.
#2
#3
No clicks. I rechecked that just to make sure. I thought I heard one the other day but I listened with the bonnet up and nothing. If it were the starter/solenoid, would I be getting a click? I've had other vehicles where the starter went bad and that's usually what happens. It's acting more like it does when you try starting it without engaging the clutch.
Is there any way to test the clutch switch to make sure? It sounds like that isn't difficult to replace (I've done minor repairs & installs on the car before) but I don't want to start replacing parts without knowing for sure what I need to replace.
Is there any way to test the clutch switch to make sure? It sounds like that isn't difficult to replace (I've done minor repairs & installs on the car before) but I don't want to start replacing parts without knowing for sure what I need to replace.
#4
You should be able just to put a jumper in the clutch switch (bypassing it) to determine if that is the issue. (I'm not familiar with the MINI switch though)
Like you, I have always had the starter click when the solenoid went out. You can try hitting the starter with a hammer - that's the old school method for a short term fix.
Like you, I have always had the starter click when the solenoid went out. You can try hitting the starter with a hammer - that's the old school method for a short term fix.
#5
You should be able just to put a jumper in the clutch switch (bypassing it) to determine if that is the issue. (I'm not familiar with the MINI switch though)
Like you, I have always had the starter click when the solenoid went out. You can try hitting the starter with a hammer - that's the old school method for a short term fix.
Like you, I have always had the starter click when the solenoid went out. You can try hitting the starter with a hammer - that's the old school method for a short term fix.
#6
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#9
Glad you're back on the road (sans push-start.)
#10
I'm sure they are permanent magnet starters, but the magnet retainers are not especially prone to handling damage. We (I'm an engineer for a starter & alternator manufacturer, though not the supplier on the MINI) generally see more handling damage to the plastic solenoid cap than any other part of the starter. In short, if you hit something with a hammer, there's always a chance you will do unintended damage.
#11
I do hear a click from the engine compartment. From what Ive read here it sounds like the starter or solenoid.
Is this a big job? Like, do a bunch of things have to be removed to get to these items? Are these items a pain to remove and replace? Will I need a shop manual? Does anyone know a good mechanic who works on MINIs on Long Island?
#14
After repairs the work log said: "Check found the clutch switch has not been secured in the correct position on the clutch. ... Resecured the clutch switch module with cable trap."
#16
well if no one else will say it
since it's been a couple of months I'll figure you've sorted it out, but since automatics don't have a clutch, I gonna say they don't have a clutch switch. They likely have a different switch to only start while in park. If this fails though, there is usually a small 'cap' near the base of the shifter that you pry off to expose a hole where you would stick the key in, and push, to disable this cut-off switch; then start the car.
#17
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