That trick with getting it onto the track didn't work for me, either. I think one of the two rear plastic pieces that fits in the track is broken on mine. I am wondering how a new top (armrest) will work or will I still have the same problem? Switching out to a Euro looks pretty complicated from the very nice detailed description and pictures on one of those websites (minspeed or outmotoring, can't remember!) After all, I'm a girl!!!!!

 

On the outmotoring.com site, you can click on "How to" at the top of the page, and for Gen 1 Minis, you can see step-by-step how to install the OEM armrest. I assume you need to do that in reverse to install the Euro, and then screw in the "feet" at the rear of each front seat.

 

I had this problem of the "opening armrest" too. Took mine to dealer b/c for some odd reason one day my armrest decided not to open at all. Service guy got it open, said it's a defect, and ordered me a new clip. Said to come in to get it repaired/installed but haven't gone back yet. Will post an update on whether the new clip keeps the armrest closed better than the original.

 

Surely we can find a gallant person nearby to help. Are you anywhere near NJ?!!?

 

The problem is universal.
http://www.mini2.com/forum/2nd-gen-i...5-armrest.html

I have the Euro; it's nice but doesn't flip up and out of the way far enough for me...

 

This is actually VERY good information! The service guy in Atlanta told me basically the same thing--that when the top is slid back, it comes out of the tracks. When it gets pushed back in, you have to make sure both sides move into the tracks. What is happening is that one side will line up and the other will not. Then when you rest your arm on it--!crack!-- you break a rear clip. Presto! The top will no longer stay closed.

I bought a new one (just the cover) at the dealer for $104, and replaced it. Works perfectly!

To remove the old one, you slide it back all the way open, flip it up so the front is up and the back is down, and then squeeze it on each side so that the plastic comes out of the track on one side. The other side will just release. Reverse the process to install the new one. Then, be very careful every time you close it to make sure the rear clips are engaged in the tracks. Good luck!!

 

My attempt at a fix with electrical tape didn't do it. I have my tire rotation and oil change coming up at 9k miles in about a month, so I'll have to mention this to them as well.

Problem is, I rest on that side of the car any time I'm at a light or stopped in traffic, so I'm likely to break it again.

 

If it's closed correctly, it will be fine and it won't break. It is SO worth it! Out of habit now, I still look down to see if it's open or casually reach over to close it. But it's CLOSED! YEAH!!!

 

I'm having my armrest replaced next week under warranty, because the lid popped off and they couldn't get it to go back on. I'd much rather have one of the Euro armrests, but I'm sure there is no chance of getting that instead without paying for it.

 

I think I'll "tough it out" until my oil change--first anniversary will be 2/21. Wonder how soon I can bring it in.

I've got 15,000 on the clock, and the count down meter still says 6,000. We have, of course, changed the oil (twice).

 

you need to take it now at 15,000 because the service advises a 15k oil change.
I scheduled for service ahead of time when I knew I'd be near 15k, I drove up to my first service with 15267 miles, and according to the car still had 3600 miles to go before I needed service. If I'm not mistaken you need to get an oil change at your dealer within 1000 miles of hitting 15k (under or over) or it may invalidate your warranty?

 

Interesting--we were told we had to wait until the countdown, or 1 year, whichever came first. And it was that way on a BMW we bought new--they would NOT do it before then. But I'll call tomorrow...

 

Okay, I called. My SA said positively, definitely, absolutely, that it goes by the computer OR the anniversary date of purchase, which is February 21, for me. The computer says 6000 left, and she said that it often does. Apparently they can read the key, and if there's a difference between it and the OBC, they go by the key. But, usually the OBC is correct.

This is what happened to us with our BMW in '01--couldn't get a free change until the computer said, although as I recall, the computer time was a whole lot shorter.

 

I had the same problem on a different car. My ultimate solution was to remove the spring in the hinge, so that it would not leap open even if the latch released. That solved the problem.

 

I'm trying to deduce exactly which parts are needed to switch my R56 OEM Sliding Armrest to the Euro Fliptop one. I also have the chromeline interior and no Nav. Looking at the diagram for the R56 at RealOEM.com it would appear I would need the following... please correct me if I'm wrong:

BRACKET, HANDBRAKE CONSOLE, REAR
51-16-2-752-947

CUP HOLDER, HANDBRAKE CONSOLE, REAR
51-16-2-756-167

TRIM RING, DRINK HOLDER, REAR
51-16-2-756-172

It appears I'm just replacing items 3, 16 & 17 with 2, 14 & 15. There are no references to black panther which, btw, is the coolest name for a color.

CLICK HERE FOR R56 PART DIAGRAM

 

Just received the parts and installed them and it was indeed the correct parts. Here are the prices I paid at my local dealer:

R56/Chromeline interior/No Nav
BRACKET, HANDBRAKE CONSOLE, REAR
51-16-2-752-947 $20.99
CUP HOLDER, HANDBRAKE CONSOLE, REAR
51-16-2-756-167 $21.99
TRIM RING, DRINK HOLDER, REAR
51-16-2-756-172 $18.99

Removal of the old armrest and installation of these new parts was very easy. About 20 minutes taking my time.
Awaiting the euro armrest to come in - which should be even easier to bolt in since it uses the existing seat bolts.

 

Looking at doing this mod, how did yours go with the euro?

 

If anyone still cares about the slippy/sliddy armrest issue, this is how I got it to stay shut. I just purchased an 08 hardtop from a friend and this was the only issue with it. Following notme's instructions, I opened it all the way and pulled up thinking I would be setting it back in its track. Instead the lid released (as in separated from console) in my hand. I could see a broken detente on the back (plastic looks like its been broken a long time). I noticed a self adhesive felt runner along both edges of the lid to give the lid a tempered feel when opening/closing I suspect. With a knife, I lifted about a 1/4 inch of the sticky felt near the back end of the lid. I found a rubber ring in my tool box - much like a gasket that goes with the threaded end of a garden hose. With a knife, I cut two little semi circles out of it. I found this to fit exactly under the lifted felt (I installed the semi circles on each side of the lid). Once sure of the fit, I super glued them in place. I re-installed the front (upper guides) and then lined up the double guides over the recanular opening on the console. The pastic tabs proved strong enough to not to break while being forced back into the console. Once in, I shoved the lid forward until the bulg made contact - and now all is well. The the lid has enough drag at the end of its guide channel to firmly remain closed, yet still can be opened.

 

didn't know you could swap it out with the euro version. Think I will just superglue mine shut until I can do the swap. Mine is functional, properly on its track, but slides open occasionally and it really is too small for any real storage. Apparently you can buy a kit for an iphone that fits in there, but my note 2 will not come close to fitting (actually sits nice under the parking brake)

 

If you are converting to the Euro Fliptop armrest those three part are here. #51162752947

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51162752947/


Cup Holder For Rear Section to match the other trims rings of your interior.
#51162756167


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51162756167/


&

Trim Ring For Rear Cup Holder - Chrome #51162756172

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51162756172/




Trim Ring For Rear Cup Holder - Silver #51162756171

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51162756171/




Trim Ring For Rear Cup Holder - Carbon Black #51162756169

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51162756169/


The Euro flip top armrest is here and mounts to the near the seat rails. Comes in a color close to carbon black.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/52160429935/ES250438/




And if you just want to replace the factory armrest pad. Part # 51162753341


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51162753341/ES81901/



Thanks and hope that helps.

 

Mine just slides completely off the rear of the console. Not accidentally, but when I open it. I have the cradle for my iPhone so I don't want to go with the euro version. Guess I'll need to spring for a new cover. Looking at the picture above and comparing it to mine, I seem to be missing most of the tabs shown.
Thanks for the link ECS.

 

You are welcome. Glad I could help.

 

Saw this and thought it might be a good solution or at least a decent Band-Aide https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...01-post22.html

Parts Order info:
http://www.shear-loc.com/onequarter.htm

Just goes to show, MINI owners are a creative bunch and some of the solutions are inexpensive!

 

I know this is an old thread, but here is how I "fixed" mine on the cheap. You can buy types of bumpers at Lowe's, Home Depot...etc.

I just stuck one on each side of the armrest frame, and they stay there for a few months until they finally give up the ghost and fall off. If you pull up slightly as you close the cover, they actually do last for a while. Since you buy a whole sheet of them, you always have more.

Here is how they look installed. You can see they are a bit misaligned, as they have been on there for six months or so and are starting to become unstuck, so it's time to replace them. I've never had the lid slide back since installed, and you don't have to reach back to turn a wing nut. Just remember to keep upward pressure on the lid when you close it.