First let me say the battery is just fine all electrics are operational. The situation is the car has been sitting in my UK garage for the past 3 weeks while I have been on an extended business trip in the US. I suspected the problem may have had something to do with moisture build up since its basically always damp in the UK and the garage doors have been closed for most of that time. When I turn the key I get a loud clicking sound in the engine bay (maybe the ignition coil?) and the electrics in the car go on an off along with the clicking sound coming from under the hood. I have checked the battery, ignition coil terminals, spark plug leads and the throttle body wiring conector for moisture and dirt, everything appears to be clean and dry I even used a hair dryer dissapate any moisture. Before I go ahead and order a tow truck to bring to the car to the nearest dealer in Beaconsfield ($300.00 ) I thought I would post the question to NAM to see if anyone had any other suggestions, thanks

 

The battery may read 12 - 14.2 volts on your meter, but under load it may drop down fast. Try the lights and see if they hold brightness or slowly dim and put the meter on the battery while you are doing that.

Any mice munching on wires?

Next check the big connector for moisture that services the inner cab fuse box.

Next have someone hold the key in the start position while you rap on the starter with a hammer ..... carefully ..... and yes this has worked on my Silverado when my starter was going bad.

 

The battery is as strong as the day I bought it, lights work great, radio booms wipers wipe and washer works plus all interior lights work..............all at the same time while attempting to start the car. But I haven't checked the inner cab fuse box and I will try out your suggestion regarding the rapping on the starter........carefully. Not sure about mice but given where I live it is certainly possible! Thanks for the suggestions I will get back to you later today.

 

I think it's a battery problem as well, the clicking noise is most likely the starter solenoid "chattering", not enough amps in the battery to turn the engine over. Try getting a jump start from another car, if that does it then you know it's the battery.

 

Okay I will also do a jump start just to make sure I have checked everything.

 

I've even heard of MINIs with a bad cell in the battery showing good headlights and accesories, that couldn't be jumped even from another car until the bad battery (shorted cell?) was disconnected. I know of a couple instances.

I agree, the clicking is likely the solenoid engaging which takes little current, then the starter isn't working 'cause thats very high current. Classic bad battery that you don't think is bad battery syndrone.

 

Okay you convinced me I am out the door right now to get some jumper cables

 

Hey you guys were right it was the battery after all I never would have suspected the battery because as I mentioned everything electrical worked great but I guess the electrical system is quite different than the older cars. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks Thanks to everyone that responded you were all a great help and saved me from a 2 to 3 hundred tow job! If you are ever in London let me know I owe you a Pint........maybe two

 

clicking solenoid is a dead give a way for a bad battery. Even with the lights on, you're only drawing a small fraction of the current that the starter takes. And if you have Xenons, I don't even know if they'll go dim as they have a high voltage supply that fires them off. (Halogens and standar bulbs run off the 12 v DC battery suppy, and will dim if the voltage drops). Any time you hear a clicking solenoid the first thing to do is to jump the car, then get the battery tested. It should have held the charge for the three weeks you were away.

Matt

 

This may sound simplistic but it is the way I go about troubleshooting an engine that won't start.
You need three things for ignition with an internal combustion engine:
(no particular order)
1. Air (clogged intake?)
2. Spark (dead battery, bad plugs, worn plug wires, defective coil, coil wire detached, ECU?)
3. Fuel (out of gas, clogged fuel filter?)
A lack of any (or combination of) the above will keep your engine from starting.
Just FYI.

 

if you can't spin the engine, having air, spark and fuel won't do jack....

Matt

 

You can push start if you have all of the above...

 

Clicking when trying to start almost always means the battery doesn't have enough amperage to turn the starter over. The voltage of your battery means nothing. My battery shows between 11.4 and 12 volts all the time and still cranks the car up fine. If your electrolyte was frozen or there was a small drain on the car in the 3 weeks you were gone, your battery is probably toast. I'd put it on a trickle charger for 10-12 hours and try to start it again.

 

Alrighty than tomorrow I will do some battery therapy. The car has very low miles less than 500 miles a month on it and since it costs $100.00 to fill the tank up over here I only drive the Mini when I have to so it does sit a lot I suppose the battery needs attention, more than just a jump start. Next time I am away for long periods of time I will make sure the wife drives it every few days.

 

Oh I do have Zenon HL's now I understand why they didn't dim!

 

What should I do to test the strength of my battery to see if it needs replacing?

 

There are two good ways to test batteries: Specific gravity of the electrolyte (hard to do with sealed batteries), and load testing. The latter is the way that carries the day nowadays.... This looks at voltage vs high current loads (hundreds of amps....) and auto shops are where to get it done.

Matt

 

The fact that lights, wipers, radio, etc work is no indication that a battery is any good. Your lights (a big current draw) may pull 4 to 5 amps max; the starter? 90 to 120 amps. Biiig difference. A battery at only 25% of full charge will still show 11 to 12+ volts, but won't have anywhere near enough current to turn your starter.
Try charging it (it might be saved) and then getting a load test per Dr. O.
Batteries are usually good for 4 to 6 years.

-skip-

 

Sounds like its time for a new battery since the car will be 6 years old this July. Thanks for the feedback

 

6 years is a LONG time when it's been subjected to the types of temperature variations you guys have over in the UK. It gets pretty cold in the winter there, and warms up in the summer. With wide temperature swings, or extreme temperatures (Below 0 c or Above 40 c) a battery will only really last 4-5 years without having issues.

6 years on an OEM battery makes a dead battery sound like it's the problem, i'd bet money on it .

 

I just went through the exact same problem last week. Haven't driven the car for 3 weeks and when I started the car the engine wouldn't turn. Exactly the same symptom as you mentioned, all electrical/accessories/dash lighted up. I turned the key and the starter kept clicking, and all lights went on and off with the clicks. Left the car for a few more days and all lights became very dim when I tested again. At first I thought it was the starter but I pulled the battery out and charged it overnight and it worked.

I just threw in a new battery today since the one I had was 5 years old, and the OEM one (charged) is sitting in the garage as a spare just in case.

Not sure what year is your Mini but my 02 doesn't have the hood release cable under the rear seats. If you are pulling the battery out without putting a new one in right away remember to remove the boot cover and fold down the seat. Without a battery and the release cable the boot will be stucked meaning you won't be able to open it from outside.

If you are buying an aftermarket battery make sure you get one that's for our car. The battery needs to have a vent to connect to the vent tube in the battery compartment. I went through so much trouble with the shops trying to order the one that fits.

Hope this helps. PM me if you need more info.

 

Thanks to all who post to this forum. I did the search and found this thread which describes the starting (lack of) on my 03. I was really looking for a thread on how to replace the starter. But following the advice, I jumped the car and TA DA! the car started. An overnight charge and I am still in business. I forgot the first level of troubleshooting. I guess after years of dealing with Fiat, Audi, Infiniti etc. electricals I forgot the basics of working on Chevy, check the cables and battery.

Thanks again.

 

I had this same exact problem tonight, except jumping the car with another vehicle did not work. So I think before I have it towed, I'll take the battery out and take it to the local shop for testing. Thanks for the post.

 

Check the fuel pump fuse. Mine did exactly the same thing last weekend, except I was driving at the time. The car was working fine, then all of a sudden I started to lose performance and it went into limp mode, I pulled over, turned the car off and then it wouldn't start again except all of the electric worked. Turned out the fuel pump fuse in the cabin blew, I replaced it and away I went. Start there and if its not the fuse turn your key to the second position with the radio and blower off (dont crank the engine) and listen for your fuel pump to hum (its quiet). If it doesn't you have a bad fuel pump. See if that solves it.

 

Took the battery by the shop this morning and it was dead. Popped a new one in and I'm good to go.