Clutch Burn-Out & Noise R56 Pre-Mature!
#51
#52
Here is what I would do.
I would make sure I was there when the dealer removed the clutch.
If the clutch was glazed or burnt out I would gladly pay up. (My fault)
If it is coming apart or has oil on it I would scream until warrenty paid up.
There is no normal wear at 14,000 miles when a driver knows how to handle a stick. What destroys clutches most is resting your foot on the pedal when driving down the highway. Using the clutch to hold you on a hill from rolling backwards is another NO_NO. Starting off from a stop in 2nd gear and slipping the clutch is another way to destroy it.
Just be there when it comes apart and see for your self what the parts look like.
If the clutch was glazed or burnt out I would gladly pay up. (My fault)
If it is coming apart or has oil on it I would scream until warrenty paid up.
There is no normal wear at 14,000 miles when a driver knows how to handle a stick. What destroys clutches most is resting your foot on the pedal when driving down the highway. Using the clutch to hold you on a hill from rolling backwards is another NO_NO. Starting off from a stop in 2nd gear and slipping the clutch is another way to destroy it.
Just be there when it comes apart and see for your self what the parts look like.
#53
burnt clutch
In the end the local dealer really came through for us and the clutch was covered. The whole thing was spidered blue and burnt and etched where the rivets are on the pressure plate. The thought was since they hadn't replaced the entire assembly the prior fix there was still a problem. Also our regular mechanic who knows that both of have driven turbo manual audis and a manual porsche called the shop on our behalf.
The first clutch they should absolutely cover and demand that the entire assembly be replaced. I would photograph the parts because they return them to corporate.
The first clutch they should absolutely cover and demand that the entire assembly be replaced. I would photograph the parts because they return them to corporate.
#54
I have been driving stick for 30+ years and have had clutches go bad normal in the 75k to 100k+ range, maybe even earlier when I was young and foolish. My style now is not to ride a clutch however it can happen as well as working it too hard at times. At 20k the clutch in my 2009 JCW started to make the low tone screech sound in 1st and then in 2nd. A week later it started to slip in 3rd under hard acceleration. I took it to the dealer, they test drove it and agreed they needed to check it out. They gave me an appt for a week later and said 'don't give it power it should be fine for the week'. During that time under very careful use it only slipped twice in high gear but would make noise upon start up in 1st. In the end Mini/BMW covered the full cost of the replacement of the fly wheel, clutch plate and Throwout barring, No questions asked. The SA explained that the replacement parts were new from BMW, and not the same OEM part the car was built with. If you have a low mileage Mini that needs a clutch and the dealer is not replacing it under full warranty, that dealer is wrong, needs to be reported and called out. Do not except it. Best of luck to all. FWIW my mini is a US spec. bought and serviced in Germany. The dealer is in Germany and seems to be superb.
#55
I just had my clutch replaced with 27,000 miles on my car. With the car off, if you pushed the clutch in and out there was a distinct noise coming from the clutch so I took it in and they said the pressure plate was defective and they replaced the clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate under warranty.
I got it back today and it seems like the travel of the clutch pedal has reduced. I am glad I didnt have to fight the dealer to have this covered.
I got it back today and it seems like the travel of the clutch pedal has reduced. I am glad I didnt have to fight the dealer to have this covered.
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Colt45Magnus
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
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08-12-2015 06:43 AM