Ok wow where to start My father bought an 05 cooper S about a little over 1 year ago from a rep dealer down here the car was not the regular stock mini you buy. The mods it came with were, Tein Suspension, Borla Exhaust system, Aftermarket Header, Alta 15% reduction pulley, Forge top mount Intercooler, Nology spark plug wires, Hot wheel mini rims, Alta Intake, Alta oil catch can, Boost gauge, airfuel gauge (needs a wideband) and I'm sure there is some things I'm missing. Ok so the Mini was fine for about 8months drove like a champ then his cat broke apart when he was up north visiting family you could hear it rattling around inside it so he had it changed, They charges Him $600 and kept his Cat which Idk if it was messed up in the first place, also when it was there they stole his reduction pulley and put a stock one on. When he finally came home to Florida I seen all the was missing and told him they put a stock cat and stock pulley but the car was running fine so he was angry but could not do anything about it. About a month later he was driving and the same sound rattling in the exhaust like the cat broke apart he said and the check engine light came on so he took it to an exhaust shop where they put another cat on this time it was an aftermarket high flow cat and they kept his old one. After that he took it to Orlando downtown mini and they replaced his Throttle body and Thermostat which the thermostat was working fine opening up when it was supposed to I check the old one when he got it home it was fine opened fine when dropped into really hot water. After leaving there raped for lots of money the car was still not running right he said lack of power, etc. So he took it to a Mini mechanic who is supposed to be #1 in Florida the guy kept it for a day to diag we come back he said idk I need more time I think it's the cams something internal I called B.S as told my dad were taking the car back he paid we left on the way home the cluster started acting funny temp gauge was reading fine gas gauge was working then not working then not lights were flashing on the cluster working than not. Then it feels like it has no power at all I finally get it home shut it off and the whole time it was overheating smoke coming out the breather coolant is empty so the guy emptied the coolant and never filled it back up. I put more coolant and the car stopped acting as weird I told my father do not drive it anymore but he did not listen months later he kept driving it the car got worse and worse started miss fireing the smoking out the breather stopped after I put the coolant, but the car would not hold an idle he had to keep gassing it and it would miss through the rpms and when at say 5th gear sitting at a steady rpm it would miss and jerk. So he went to crank it up last week and drive it the car would crank crank crank but would not start it had been sitting for a week I ordered a minimania scan tool and a mini service manual so I could get this thing fixed also the break lights will not turn off anymore you gotta reset the battery and a fuse for the gauge cluster keeps popping if I leave it in it will stay lit up but none of the interior lights will turn on.

Here is the codes it is throwing:
P0704 Clutch switch input malfunction
P0123 Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch 'A' circuit High
P1229 Throttle Position adaptation failure
P0108 Map/Baro press circuit High input
P0172 System too rich (bank1)
P0222 Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch 'B' circuit low
P1688 Electronic Throttle control module level 2/3 Maf calculation
P2300 Ignition coil "A" Primary control circuit low
P2303 Ignition coil "B" primary control circuit low
P1656 Automotive Transaxle (The car is a stick why is this code being thrown)

So I have come to the conclusion I was gonna start by replacing the spark plugs, coil, wires, throttle body and maps. But I'm not sure if it just need all of these things replaced or maybe its a harness issue due to the electrical problems. Lmk what you guys think I really need some Help I'm affraid to start replacing stuff and it still not fix the problem turn out being the harness. I know it needs the plugs and wires but idk about anything else.

 

It sounds like everything that is happening is more of an electrical issue than mechanical. Possibly the previous owner did something to the ecu wires? I would definetly check that, i heard someone talking about they powered some accessories and gauges off the ecu wire and the cars timing was off and turned into a pile of junk.

 

[ they replaced his Throttle body and Thermostat ....gas gauge was working then not working ...Then it feels like it has no power at all ....the whole time it was overheating smoke coming out the breather coolant is empty ... started miss fireing ...car would not hold an idle he had to keep gassing it and it would miss through the rpms ...at a steady rpm it would miss and jerk. ...car would crank crank crank but would not start ... the break lights will not turn off anymore .... the gauge cluster keeps popping ...it will stay lit up but none of the interior lights will turn on.

Here is the codes it is throwing:
P0704 Clutch switch input malfunction
P0123 Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch 'A' circuit High
P1229 Throttle Position adaptation failure
P0108 Map/Baro press circuit High input
P0172 System too rich (bank1)
P0222 Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch 'B' circuit low
P1688 Electronic Throttle control module level 2/3 Maf calculation
P2300 Ignition coil "A" Primary control circuit low
P2303 Ignition coil "B" primary control circuit low
P1656 Automotive Transaxle (The car is a stick why is this code being thrown)

... start by replacing the spark plugs, coil, wires, throttle body and maps.

WooHoo! This is the saddest story I have heard yet. I have also never seen so many codes at once. I will start by saying that there is no need yet to replace the plugs coil, wires, throttle body or MAPS. You need to get this car onto a really good real time OBDII scanner and start looking at all of the sensor values and freeze frames in real time. My first thought is that a weak battery maybe causing a lot of this, get it load tested, not just voltage tested. I would also do a hard reset of the ECU, it could be doing this. You need competent professional help with this one if you are not familar with the sensor values you need to see and ECU reset. I will say that I don't think your problems are serious, I think they have a central cause, either low amperage or poor electrical connections somewhere, maybe even a needed ECU reflash ,but not all over the car like these codes would suggest.

 

I know how to read scan data I jsut don't have a personal one is there one you could recommend that will not break the bank. I'm going to test the battery tomorrow I just found my long lost DMM so I will get to it tomorrow. I'm going to replace the plugs and wires tomorrow because Nology wires in my experience are crap anyways and the plugs are fuel fouled and overheated. Hopefully I can get it to turn on tomorrow then I will go from there lmk about the scan tool. What you recommend.

 

I agree with Oldmots on this one, do not replace anything just yet. The solution to this one lies in the answer to that age old question; how do you eat a Dinosaur? the correct response is "one bite at a time".

Now here we go. The first thing that jumps out at me is that the word "circuit" appears in 5 out of the 10 errors you reported. This tells me that these conditions were caught by the "Comprehensive Component Monitor" of the OBDII system. The CCM runs all the time and will detect components that are unplugged, shorted to ground or shorted to battery plus voltage. Because the CCM runs all the time these conditions will be detected immediately as soon as the key is turned on even before the car is started! Some of these conditions may require a second actuation of the key before setting a SES light! but I will tell you how to know if the condition exist even before the SES light comes on....look for the code in $MODE7 (A.K.A. pending codes).

Long story short; do a thorough inspection of the wiring harness to make sure there is no rub through to the engine block or damaged wires or insulation that could cause a short to battery voltage or ground. Locate and check the terminals of the MAP and ignition coils for opens or corrosion.
locate and check the relays in the relay box under the hood that are responsible for bringing operational power to most of the devices listed on your code list. There should be an audible click from one or two of the relays in question when the ignition key is cycled. Clear the codes and with the OBDII tool attached wiggle the connectors and feel around the wiring harness to see if you can make any of the codes come back. I use the AutoEnginuity scan tool which requires a laptop. The cost is approx $250. Good luck and please let us know how you make out.

 

Thx for everyones help and support I will order that scantool today. So far I have been taking a look at all the wiring in the engine bay and the red wire on the ignition plug has a tear in it and the wire is showing so I know thats one of the problem allready. I also checked the battery voltage it is 8.98v and thats no good. I will keep you updated I'm going to cut and sodder the red wire and clean it up real good and look for anything else.

 

ok I fixed the ignition wires and I checked the relays had someone turn the car on while I touched each relay out of all 4 only R1 is clicking during the key cycle R2 R3 and R4 do not click.

 

So far you are looking good! the main relay supplies power to the coils and injectors, when the key is on you should have battery voltage on one of the coil wires at the coil connector, the idea is that this voltage should be the same as on the battery. If it is not then the relay contacts have too much resistance and is not allowing all of the available voltage to reach the coil.

 

More Codes
P0562
P0686
P0500
It's very upsetting how my father could let such a Beautiful car get this bad idk what to do I think I will push it into the drive way light it on fire and tell him the car just some how burst into flames j/k :/ Depressing Idk where to look next I fixed the ignition wireing all the other wireing looks good The battery is done my father hooked a jumper pack to it. Can the Mini batterys be recharged I have never seen a battery like the ones in the minis so idk?

 

The last three codes you mention are caused by a very low battery! Depending on the state of the battery you may be able to have it recharged.
Also depending on your mechanical/technical skills and experience you may want to have a professional look at this one.

 

I took a closer look at all three wires on the ignition they have what I like to call the "Green Monster" on them I'm not sure how far into the harness it is but I cut on each wire about half a foot into the wireing and its all the way to that point. Also the map sensor that is infront of the valve cover between where the radiator is on the plug pins there is more of the green monster. The ecu wireing where it plugs into the ecu at some point and time someone cut and spliced into a lot of the wires it looks like they were trying to find wires they needed to run to something they installed in the mini. They left the extra wires still soddered into the stock wires trailing off and there are a lot of wires that have been cut open and retaped. I think the real problem is in the harness itself from what I can see it has has moisture in those 3 ignition wires and in the pins on the map so somewhere in the harness I'm assuming there is even more resistance from the green monster I just cant get to the complete harness without removing the entire thing one plug at a time and taking it completely out.

 

Is there any evidence of the car being in a flood?

 

Mini Still not running been sitting for over a year what a waste. Car is getting fuel but 0 spark also the plastic piece that the throttle body mounts to was broken where it goes into the intake manifold the seal was bad fixed that it was completely off at first. If there is anyone with any mini knowledge who could give me some ideas lmk.

 

Many are happy to help, but I have a favor to ask. Can you please use normal sentances? The run ons make it harder to read.

It sounds like there is a massivly hacked wiring harness on the engine. That's the bad news. The good news is that the entire harness is pretty easy to change out. I don't know what they cost but it's very modular.

The battery voltage of 8 point something is very worrysome. All car batteries can be recharged IF they haven't been trashed. The suggestion of charging and load testing the battery is a good one.

One bite at a time.....

Matt

 

that plastic piece between the TB and the supercharger needs fixing. It's not hard to replace, but it takes a bit of work. Get yourself a manual so you can put the car in "service mode" and that will give you room to work. You'll also be able to check the wiring at the back of the alternator to see if it's all caked up with corrosion.

And if there are some places that give 20% of retail for MINI parts, classic auto campus in the vendor directory is one of them. If you're going to be buying parts, might as well as save where you can.

Matt

 

Sorry about the run on sentences sometimes I just write fast to get it all out quick. The plastic piece I fixed, one thing I have noticed is the car is getting fuel but 0 spark. I checked the red wire on the coil plug, with the key in the on position it read 12.2V so I know it's getting voltage.

Maybe the Coil pack has gone bad and needs to be replaced?

I checked the harness and the only thing I could find wrong was the coil plug that I all ready repaired but as you stated above the harness could in fact be bad I have been debating that with myself for a while now.

Also I did buy the Bently service manual cost like $80 it's informative but does not help too much with diag.

 

I have an extra coil I could loan you. I'm in the SF bay area. It's worth a shot for sure. another thing to check is the ground strap from the side of the engine to the frame. Does it crank really well? (If the ground is shot, cranking is a bit of a problem too).

For code numbers greater than 1000, you're into things that can be manufacturer. Try this site: http://www.my330i.com/odb2.php to get BMW specific decoding....

While the car is complicated, it's still a car. You're half way there! Fuel + spark = running engine!

Matt

 

New Code 1661 could not really find any information on it but according to other sites on other obd2 vehicles the reason for it could be low voltage or pcm failure. I wish I knew someone in Florida near me that could let me try there computer.

Also I ordered a new coil MSD because I keep reading about stock coils rusting on the contacts and causing problems so I figured mine looks like *** might as well upgrade it and see what happens.

 

I am showing a code P1661 as an immobilizer error - no communication; sounds like its related to the key not communicating with the antenna built into the bezel

 

It's sad how this car 2011 is still not running.

The Last thing replaced was a new engine harness.

I'm starting to believe it has a bad ecm. If there is anyone on here who would like to see a picture of the circuit board some of the copper traces look funny.

I forget sometimes that the car is even in the garage I just decided to mess around with it myself a few hours ago.

 

a shop actually got it running after replacing the wire harness they hard reset it and it ran for 1hr and shut off again down the street from my house and would not turn on again. crank crank crank crank.

 

That was one of the hardests to read posts i've ever read.

 

yeah sorry I typed it a long time ago in a rush. If I get time I will re write it.