Duration of brake rotors
#1
Duration of brake rotors
I have a 2004 Mini Copper with 69,950 miles. It seems I needed brake pad replacement on the front and rear (as I was expecting) but the front rotors had to be changed too. How long do the stock front rotors generally last and when is it appropriate to change them out (most of my driving is just commuter).
#3
#4
Not picking on you in general, but my rule of thumb is if they are right at minimum specs before the brake job, change them. It's only what stops you car, why skimp on that.
#5
I'm no expert, that's just my experience. For daily driving, if you replace your pads when they need replacing instead of waiting for your brakes to squeak, rotors can last a very long time. And if you downshift whenever you stop or slow significantly, brake pads can last a very long time also.
#7
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#9
This has been my experience as well...The rear rotors will go at a 2:1 Pads/rotors, but the front is 1:1 pads/rotors
#10
chiming in
2004 MCS - stock pads and rotors
back roads, autocross - overall a gentle driver though...(old!)
Brake Maintenance Timeline
39,942 Rear Rotors and Pads (surprised me that the rear was first)
59,292 Front rotors and pads
79,505 Rear pads only
I'm due for all four corners now, at 109,000 miles - but all brakes are within spec and working fine - thank heavans. Been unemployed and was grateful to get the full '08 autocross season done without issue.
2004 MCS - stock pads and rotors
back roads, autocross - overall a gentle driver though...(old!)
Brake Maintenance Timeline
39,942 Rear Rotors and Pads (surprised me that the rear was first)
59,292 Front rotors and pads
79,505 Rear pads only
I'm due for all four corners now, at 109,000 miles - but all brakes are within spec and working fine - thank heavans. Been unemployed and was grateful to get the full '08 autocross season done without issue.
#11
#13
I had to do a full brake job (front and rear pads and rotors) on my MCS at somewhere shortly after 60k. That was not too long after her first trackday under her belt, which corroborated everything. The rotors are relatively thin which is the reason why you can't just turn them to get more life out of them.
#14
First off just so you know I use my car mainly for commuting with weekend fun trips. My commute consist of maybe 3 or 4 stops and 70 mile + each way. So the brakes and clutch don't get used that much in the daily driving. But weekends, when I get out, they get a lot more use.
With that said, I replaced my rear pads (pads only) at 90,000 and my front pads and rotors at ~120k miles.
I think the rears are about due again
Nik
With that said, I replaced my rear pads (pads only) at 90,000 and my front pads and rotors at ~120k miles.
I think the rears are about due again
Nik
#15
chadtoolio makes a good point about measuring the pad and rotor as the basis for decision making; squeaking is not an accurate indicator of service life, however, grinding is a definite “gone too far” or failure flag. Caliper(s) and/or micrometer are useful tools which pay for themselves quickly, but pad thickness can easily be seen without removing a wheel and a pocket ruler can show approximate pad thickness when placed through the wheel spokes. Feeling with a finger nail for the amount of lip on the end of the rotor is another approximate indicator; and if the depth of the swept area is compared using an appropriate measurement device, you’ll have a mental reference for use later.
Ratios change when various pad compounds and aftermarket rotors are combined, so OEM experiences become less valid.
Ratios change when various pad compounds and aftermarket rotors are combined, so OEM experiences become less valid.
#16
K-huevo, is certainly right on with this observation.
I have found that EBC Green stuff pads are very aggressive on my Frozen Rotors. Keeping an eye on brakes is easily done when checking tire air pressure once or twice a month. Something every MINI owner does regularly, right?
I changed out the front rotors at around 50K, to be honest they still have some life left in them. The front Frozen rotors started life with the EBC pads and are showing more of a wear ring than the OEM did at higher mileage.
chadtoolio's experience with front to read wear ratio is mine also.
And gnatster's comment,
is dead on the money.
Ratios change when various pad compounds and aftermarket rotors are combined, so OEM experiences become less valid.
I changed out the front rotors at around 50K, to be honest they still have some life left in them. The front Frozen rotors started life with the EBC pads and are showing more of a wear ring than the OEM did at higher mileage.
chadtoolio's experience with front to read wear ratio is mine also.
And gnatster's comment,
Brake pads are cheaper than clutches.
Last edited by norm03s; 10-12-2008 at 05:24 AM. Reason: SP
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