Loose tie-rod ball joint - What to do?
#1
Loose tie-rod ball joint - What to do?
I've been investigating a knocking noise from my front driver's side suspension that developed after replacing my rotors this past weekend. I have traced the source of the noise to an acute laxity in the driver's side tie-rod joint (In non-medical terms: a sudden looseness). This is allowing the wheel to wobble under moderate application of the brakes which in turn is causing the steering knuckle to knock about on the ball joint. This is an issue that has come up just recently, so I wouldn't necessarily mark it down to normal wear-and-tear... Its specific to the driver's side, and I just passed 40k last week.
Any thoughts? I'm going to see if I can get in to the dealer this weekend so they can confirm this as the issue... Are these joints something they might replace under warranty, considering that it seems to have gone out all of a sudden? If not, how hard is the replacement to DIY?
Any thoughts? I'm going to see if I can get in to the dealer this weekend so they can confirm this as the issue... Are these joints something they might replace under warranty, considering that it seems to have gone out all of a sudden? If not, how hard is the replacement to DIY?
#2
The replacement is on the easy scale. Loosen the jam nut on the tie rod loosen the the nut on the joint (so its almost off) The next step find a removal tool to pop the joint out of the tappered seat. Your best bet if you do not have one would be rent one from a Auto Zone type place. Now when you use the tool that tie rod is going to fly off that seat that is why you left the nut on the joint to keep it controlled. Now count how many turns it took to remove the joint off the rod and install the new one the same amount. Tighten all hardware to MFG spec and your done.
#5
I attempted to replace one of my tie rod ends today and got stuck separating the tie rod end from the rest of the assembly (#6 link). I loosened the jam nut, separated the ball joint, but could not unscrew the end. I gripped the tie rod and end with an adjustable wrench and tried to turn but it would not budge.
My car had previously been in an accident on the right side and the area to grip on the inner tie rod is slightly rounded. I eventually gave up and reassembled it. Anyone have any tricks on getting the end off?
My car had previously been in an accident on the right side and the area to grip on the inner tie rod is slightly rounded. I eventually gave up and reassembled it. Anyone have any tricks on getting the end off?
#6
An alignment is a must after replaced a tie-rod end. Failure to do so qill quickly roach your tire.
Since you are replacing the tie-rod, it's okay to smash the living daylights out of it. Take off your wheel (for more working room). Loosen the jam nut where the outter tie rod is connected to the innter tie rod. If this doesn't move, soak it in penetrating oil. If it still doesn't move, heat it with a torch. Remove the nut from the tie rod at the wheel bearing housing (steering knuckle for some- Audi calls it a wheel bearing housing), apply some penetrating oil and let sit. Smash that jammy with a hammer until it comes out. Try not to hit the steering knuckle/wheel bearing housing hard as it can be damage with enough brute force. Spin off the old tie rod end, apply some anti-seize grease, and spin the new one on. Tighten bolts to the proper torque spec and take it for an alignment.
Good luck!
Since you are replacing the tie-rod, it's okay to smash the living daylights out of it. Take off your wheel (for more working room). Loosen the jam nut where the outter tie rod is connected to the innter tie rod. If this doesn't move, soak it in penetrating oil. If it still doesn't move, heat it with a torch. Remove the nut from the tie rod at the wheel bearing housing (steering knuckle for some- Audi calls it a wheel bearing housing), apply some penetrating oil and let sit. Smash that jammy with a hammer until it comes out. Try not to hit the steering knuckle/wheel bearing housing hard as it can be damage with enough brute force. Spin off the old tie rod end, apply some anti-seize grease, and spin the new one on. Tighten bolts to the proper torque spec and take it for an alignment.
Good luck!
#7
It ended up requiring penetrating oil and heating with a torch to get it off, the threads were all rusted. One thing that is a must is to count the number of rotations or mark the threads so you know where to put the new one at. If you don't, your alignment will be severely off, rather than just slightly off.
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Steffen.Johnson
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
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01-25-2023 03:47 PM