Completed my first DIY oil change on my 2006 MCSa today. I used this http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._390306_390306 to pull the oil out of the crankcase - mainly because I rouneded off the drain plug bolt and I think this will be easier for future use anyway. Clearly, it doesn't pull 100% of the oil out of the motor but I know it got about 4 quarts from measuring. I added 4.5 quarts exactly, the last half quart after driving about a mile and measuring again. It looks like it's a little over the full mark on the dipstick, but I can't really tell because the factory dipstick sucks. I don't think there could have possibly been any more than a half quart left in the crankcase after I drained it.

How much extra oil would have to be in the engine to do any damage? Oil pressure seems normal at idle, cruising speed, and while accelerating.

 

I never use those extractors, I think they are garbage. Its usually more of a hassle than just sliding under the car and pulling the drain plug out.

You would have to be more than a quart over-filled before I would worry about any problems.

 

I would agree if the drain plug didn't round so easily - I guess in another 5000 miles or so I'll be paying the dealer to replace that plug...

 

Vice grips. It will be out in 5 seconds.

 

Vice grips, pipe wrench (I prefer the pipe wrench, as it's self tightening) - if you don't plan on re-using, extracting becomes much easier.
+1 on for the extractor. Why remove most of the oil, replace the filter, etc, and still have some unknown amount of dirty oil still in there?

I wouldn't worry about it being a little over, but hey, with your extractor removing a little bit of oil should be easy.

 

I applaud you for doing an oil change yourself, but the purpose is to get all of the old oil and grit out, and pulling the drain plug is the best way. The extractor won't get the grit out of the bottom of the pan. Hopefully, it will just stay there and not cause any problems.

Order a couple of new drain plugs and two or three filters from Classic Mini in Ohio (best price I have found). Use a vice-grip or pipe wrench and remove the plug. Remember that with both the vice-grip and the pipe wrench, there is a right way and a backwards way to apply the tool.

Pull the buggered up plug and throw it away. Get a nice 1/2 inch six point socket or a nice long 1/2 inch wrench (six point if you can find one) and you will never have a rounding issue again. A 1/2 inch fits perfectly and much better than a 13mm.

I have two or three drain plugs on my shelf. When I unscrew one, I don't even try to remove the plug and keep it in my fingers... I just give it a twirl and let it drop with the oil. After draining, I put a different on in and retrieve the old plug later for the next time.

I couldn't sleep at night using an extractor and knowing I left 1/2 quart of old oil in the pan... hehehehe

YD

 

It's become a habit of mine to order a new drain plug just about every time I order a new filter for an oil change.

As stated, you aren't going to be using that stripped plug again, so getting it loose and removing it opens up many options.

 

Remember to get the oil up to operation temp prior to draining, this will allow the oil to flow faster and help remove debris in the pan. - Mark

 

Yeah, and that way when you pull the filter out, you're sure to either burn your arm or spill some on the hot manifold! Either way, love that smell!!!! Just kidding, I completely agree. I just dislike the filter location.

 

Fumoto solves the problem once and for all time ....

an Irwin extractor will get the messed up plug out...no need to pay the dealer and you get to keep the tool!



Oh - I mentioned that 1/2 inch tid bit a while back and got beat up for it ... but it IS true huh?

 

I repeatedly had that same oil drain plug problem with my R50, even after taking great care not to overtighten it. I finally got smart and installed a Fumato valve. Since then, it has practically become a pleasure to change the oil.