Clutch slave hydraulic
#1
Clutch slave hydraulic
I've looked at the other threads and I am not seeing an answer to my problem...
So I'm driving to work and my clutch pedal goes to the floor. I've read about the clutch slave hydrolic problems and have my cooper towed home. It is about 80+ miles to the nearest dealership so I have to repair her at home. Got the part ordered. Got the bleeder kit I needed. And pull the old part. Put on the new part. Bled the brakes/clutch hydraulic and still have a pedal that stays at the floor.
Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong. I hope against all hope that it isn't the clutch that went. If it was, wouldn't it just not shift? Would the pedal fall to the floor and not work?
Any advice is appreciated.
So I'm driving to work and my clutch pedal goes to the floor. I've read about the clutch slave hydrolic problems and have my cooper towed home. It is about 80+ miles to the nearest dealership so I have to repair her at home. Got the part ordered. Got the bleeder kit I needed. And pull the old part. Put on the new part. Bled the brakes/clutch hydraulic and still have a pedal that stays at the floor.
Anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong. I hope against all hope that it isn't the clutch that went. If it was, wouldn't it just not shift? Would the pedal fall to the floor and not work?
Any advice is appreciated.
#3
4th Gear
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Coconut Creek, FL.
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well first off... was the origional output cylinder leaking?? was there any signs of fluid in the boot? If so, it may just be a bad bleeding. They have a special tool for bleeding the output cylinders. by just attaching the slave and doing a bleed routine, it doesnt get all the air out of it. sometimes if there is air at the bottom of the slave the fluid does not travel to the bottom and push the air out. The tool actually lets you bleed it on the bench first to push out all the air at the bottom of the slave. You may just have air still, It does happen. They arent the easiest to bleed.
#4
There was fluid in the (slave) boot. We are sure there was no more air.
After checking on the master cylinder spring, beacuse of cigarman's comment, it was dangling. hmmmm. aaack. Does anyone have a close-up picture of their spring assembly? I'm looking at the TIS manual and it is not very clear about how it actually should go back on or if it is broken (part of the spring missing).
I appreciate you guys a lot. Little things do help and being so far from a mechanic sucks. So again, thank you for your help!
After checking on the master cylinder spring, beacuse of cigarman's comment, it was dangling. hmmmm. aaack. Does anyone have a close-up picture of their spring assembly? I'm looking at the TIS manual and it is not very clear about how it actually should go back on or if it is broken (part of the spring missing).
I appreciate you guys a lot. Little things do help and being so far from a mechanic sucks. So again, thank you for your help!
#6
Just to keep you all updated...
I couldn't get any farther with the situation and towed (Flatbedded) the coop to a shop in Riverside. After taking a look at it, I'm now going to be a proud owner of a new clutch. ugh.
I told them I wanted to see all the parts at the finish. Thank you to all who gave advice on this one!
I couldn't get any farther with the situation and towed (Flatbedded) the coop to a shop in Riverside. After taking a look at it, I'm now going to be a proud owner of a new clutch. ugh.
I told them I wanted to see all the parts at the finish. Thank you to all who gave advice on this one!
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Ditto onasled's comments. I built my own clutch slave cylinder tool:
You have to have the slave compressed fully while bleeding it. The main reason the slaves fail is because they were compressed off-axis, even slightly, so be VERY careful when doing this. The picture doesn't show it well, but there is a dimple in the middle of the two bolts to keep the slave cylinder shaft on-axis.
I'm not sure why your shop said you needed a new clutch. Did they prove that the slave is actuating but the pressure plate is not responding?
You have to have the slave compressed fully while bleeding it. The main reason the slaves fail is because they were compressed off-axis, even slightly, so be VERY careful when doing this. The picture doesn't show it well, but there is a dimple in the middle of the two bolts to keep the slave cylinder shaft on-axis.
I'm not sure why your shop said you needed a new clutch. Did they prove that the slave is actuating but the pressure plate is not responding?
#10
Yes, it did need a new clutch. The 96,000+ miles I had on it finally took its toll. The flywheel was actually melted a bit.
Had a good shop do the work, it was a might more expensive than I thought it shoudl be and after careful questioning, found out that they buy their parts from Brecht. hmmm.
It's all back and running again good as new!
Thank you Rye for the extra info on the slave!
Had a good shop do the work, it was a might more expensive than I thought it shoudl be and after careful questioning, found out that they buy their parts from Brecht. hmmm.
It's all back and running again good as new!
Thank you Rye for the extra info on the slave!
#11
#12
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
drrigg
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
6
05-27-2022 03:31 AM
ECSTuning
Vendor Announcements
0
10-01-2015 12:13 PM
Emnotek
Vendor Announcements
0
09-29-2015 07:37 AM