What does the DME module do...
#1
03-09-2009, 09:35 AM
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#2
03-09-2009, 12:39 PM
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03-09-2009, 12:58 PM
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03-09-2009, 01:26 PM
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#6
03-09-2009, 01:39 PM
Gotcha. I read the other thread. No new ideas, unfortunately... though I THOUGHT the lights were controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM or whatever) NOT the DME/ECU... maybe I'm wrong... but if I'm right, I don't see how overloading the lighting circuit could fry the DME (it COULD, however, fry the BCM)...
They SHOULD be able to read some codes and diagnose it. I'd very politely ask them to share EVERYTHING with me regarding what codes they've read, whether they test drove the car before you picked it up, etc. If they're cooperative, great. If they're not, escalate. But it seems pretty clear cut that lighting had nothing to do with your second failure, and probably had nothing to do with the first one. I'd be asking for a refund... and it may take an attorney or small claims court to resolve, unfortunately... but I'd give the dealer every opportunity to make things right first (including a refund for the first ECU/DME).
They SHOULD be able to read some codes and diagnose it. I'd very politely ask them to share EVERYTHING with me regarding what codes they've read, whether they test drove the car before you picked it up, etc. If they're cooperative, great. If they're not, escalate. But it seems pretty clear cut that lighting had nothing to do with your second failure, and probably had nothing to do with the first one. I'd be asking for a refund... and it may take an attorney or small claims court to resolve, unfortunately... but I'd give the dealer every opportunity to make things right first (including a refund for the first ECU/DME).
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03-09-2009, 02:07 PM
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#8
06-14-2010, 03:38 PM
So today I get the call from my dealer SA that I'm in need of a new DME module. Here's my symptons and if it sounds fishy please chime in...
Thinking back the first thing that maybe could be a clue was that the car went into "limp" mode at a track event right when I let off the throttle to begin a cool down lap. The codes at the time indicated a misfire, as well as an O2 sensor failure of some sort. I replaced the pre cat O2 sensor with an aftermarket one (Bavarian Motorsport) but the CEL light lingered, briefly being able to be cleared. The car was tracked at another event and it ran flawlessly.
A few weeks back I was on my way out the garage to work and while I was pulling my motorcycle out the fan in the MINI kicked on and then off unexpectedly. At that point the car hadn't run in about 10 days... It started up fine so I left it and went to work. The following Monday I started to load the car for a track day event and noticed that the interior lights were not on and quickly found that the car was completely dead. The battery would not take a charge. The next night I tried jumping the car with my other car and as soon as the jumpers were hooked up the fan in the MINI kicked on, before I tried the ignition. I ran constantly until I unhooked the jumpers. The car wouldn't start - only cranked.
Got a new battery the next day _ car now cranked fine but still wouldn't fire up. The engine fan ran constantly but did end up shutting off after I tried several cycles of the ignition.
Had the car flat bedded to the dealer about 1 1/2 weeks ago on an emergency basis and the got to it about 4 days later. Was told that a fuse had blown and was preventing the car from starting, which they fixed. Problem was that the fan ran constantly and a short was making it do so. I told them to proceed with the diagnostic checks...I needed the car fixed. That was last Wednsday....
Today I talk with them and was told the tech could not get the fuses from blowing and that he replaced the O2 sensor which i remeinded them was new. Of course the question of "was it a MINI sensor, or aftermarket" came up. Told that aftermarket ones could be a problem...
AND since I was running a UNICHIP it may have something to do with that also. (chip has been in the car for 4 years now) but I removed it prior to the car going in to the dealer for this visit.
Anyways....apparently the fan swith has an open circuit and is not reading the temperature sensor or something like that and at this point the tech thinks I may need a new DME module. Oh and btw.....it would cost about $1600 plus labor and shipping. Add this to the cost incurred so far and I'm most likely looking at about $2500/$3000 - I'm guessing.
I hate electrical gremlins as I feel totally at their mercy...let me just open my wallet.
Thinking back the first thing that maybe could be a clue was that the car went into "limp" mode at a track event right when I let off the throttle to begin a cool down lap. The codes at the time indicated a misfire, as well as an O2 sensor failure of some sort. I replaced the pre cat O2 sensor with an aftermarket one (Bavarian Motorsport) but the CEL light lingered, briefly being able to be cleared. The car was tracked at another event and it ran flawlessly.
A few weeks back I was on my way out the garage to work and while I was pulling my motorcycle out the fan in the MINI kicked on and then off unexpectedly. At that point the car hadn't run in about 10 days... It started up fine so I left it and went to work. The following Monday I started to load the car for a track day event and noticed that the interior lights were not on and quickly found that the car was completely dead. The battery would not take a charge. The next night I tried jumping the car with my other car and as soon as the jumpers were hooked up the fan in the MINI kicked on, before I tried the ignition. I ran constantly until I unhooked the jumpers. The car wouldn't start - only cranked.
Got a new battery the next day _ car now cranked fine but still wouldn't fire up. The engine fan ran constantly but did end up shutting off after I tried several cycles of the ignition.
Had the car flat bedded to the dealer about 1 1/2 weeks ago on an emergency basis and the got to it about 4 days later. Was told that a fuse had blown and was preventing the car from starting, which they fixed. Problem was that the fan ran constantly and a short was making it do so. I told them to proceed with the diagnostic checks...I needed the car fixed. That was last Wednsday....
Today I talk with them and was told the tech could not get the fuses from blowing and that he replaced the O2 sensor which i remeinded them was new. Of course the question of "was it a MINI sensor, or aftermarket" came up. Told that aftermarket ones could be a problem...
AND since I was running a UNICHIP it may have something to do with that also. (chip has been in the car for 4 years now) but I removed it prior to the car going in to the dealer for this visit. Anyways....apparently the fan swith has an open circuit and is not reading the temperature sensor or something like that and at this point the tech thinks I may need a new DME module. Oh and btw.....it would cost about $1600 plus labor and shipping. Add this to the cost incurred so far and I'm most likely looking at about $2500/$3000 - I'm guessing.
I hate electrical gremlins as I feel totally at their mercy...let me just open my wallet.
#9
03-21-2021, 12:16 AM
So today I get the call from my dealer SA that I'm in need of a new DME module. Here's my symptons and if it sounds fishy please chime in...
Thinking back the first thing that maybe could be a clue was that the car went into "limp" mode at a track event right when I let off the throttle to begin a cool down lap. The codes at the time indicated a misfire, as well as an O2 sensor failure of some sort. I replaced the pre cat O2 sensor with an aftermarket one (Bavarian Motorsport) but the CEL light lingered, briefly being able to be cleared. The car was tracked at another event and it ran flawlessly.
A few weeks back I was on my way out the garage to work and while I was pulling my motorcycle out the fan in the MINI kicked on and then off unexpectedly. At that point the car hadn't run in about 10 days... It started up fine so I left it and went to work. The following Monday I started to load the car for a track day event and noticed that the interior lights were not on and quickly found that the car was completely dead. The battery would not take a charge. The next night I tried jumping the car with my other car and as soon as the jumpers were hooked up the fan in the MINI kicked on, before I tried the ignition. I ran constantly until I unhooked the jumpers. The car wouldn't start - only cranked.
Got a new battery the next day _ car now cranked fine but still wouldn't fire up. The engine fan ran constantly but did end up shutting off after I tried several cycles of the ignition.
Had the car flat bedded to the dealer about 1 1/2 weeks ago on an emergency basis and the got to it about 4 days later. Was told that a fuse had blown and was preventing the car from starting, which they fixed. Problem was that the fan ran constantly and a short was making it do so. I told them to proceed with the diagnostic checks...I needed the car fixed. That was last Wednsday....
Today I talk with them and was told the tech could not get the fuses from blowing and that he replaced the O2 sensor which i remeinded them was new. Of course the question of "was it a MINI sensor, or aftermarket" came up. Told that aftermarket ones could be a problem... AND since I was running a UNICHIP it may have something to do with that also. (chip has been in the car for 4 years now) but I removed it prior to the car going in to the dealer for this visit.
Anyways....apparently the fan swith has an open circuit and is not reading the temperature sensor or something like that and at this point the tech thinks I may need a new DME module. Oh and btw.....it would cost about $1600 plus labor and shipping. Add this to the cost incurred so far and I'm most likely looking at about $2500/$3000 - I'm guessing.
I hate electrical gremlins as I feel totally at their mercy...let me just open my wallet.
Thinking back the first thing that maybe could be a clue was that the car went into "limp" mode at a track event right when I let off the throttle to begin a cool down lap. The codes at the time indicated a misfire, as well as an O2 sensor failure of some sort. I replaced the pre cat O2 sensor with an aftermarket one (Bavarian Motorsport) but the CEL light lingered, briefly being able to be cleared. The car was tracked at another event and it ran flawlessly.
A few weeks back I was on my way out the garage to work and while I was pulling my motorcycle out the fan in the MINI kicked on and then off unexpectedly. At that point the car hadn't run in about 10 days... It started up fine so I left it and went to work. The following Monday I started to load the car for a track day event and noticed that the interior lights were not on and quickly found that the car was completely dead. The battery would not take a charge. The next night I tried jumping the car with my other car and as soon as the jumpers were hooked up the fan in the MINI kicked on, before I tried the ignition. I ran constantly until I unhooked the jumpers. The car wouldn't start - only cranked.
Got a new battery the next day _ car now cranked fine but still wouldn't fire up. The engine fan ran constantly but did end up shutting off after I tried several cycles of the ignition.
Had the car flat bedded to the dealer about 1 1/2 weeks ago on an emergency basis and the got to it about 4 days later. Was told that a fuse had blown and was preventing the car from starting, which they fixed. Problem was that the fan ran constantly and a short was making it do so. I told them to proceed with the diagnostic checks...I needed the car fixed. That was last Wednsday....
Today I talk with them and was told the tech could not get the fuses from blowing and that he replaced the O2 sensor which i remeinded them was new. Of course the question of "was it a MINI sensor, or aftermarket" came up. Told that aftermarket ones could be a problem...
AND since I was running a UNICHIP it may have something to do with that also. (chip has been in the car for 4 years now) but I removed it prior to the car going in to the dealer for this visit.Anyways....apparently the fan swith has an open circuit and is not reading the temperature sensor or something like that and at this point the tech thinks I may need a new DME module. Oh and btw.....it would cost about $1600 plus labor and shipping. Add this to the cost incurred so far and I'm most likely looking at about $2500/$3000 - I'm guessing.
I hate electrical gremlins as I feel totally at their mercy...let me just open my wallet.
sorry for bumping this extremely old thread, but I’d like to know if the new dme resolved your fan short issue (same problem here and leaning into a new dme but want to confirm)
#10
03-22-2021, 04:44 AM
#11
03-22-2021, 06:01 AM
Here, S-Driver responds with an answer to a question on a post he made almost ELEVEN YEARS AGO !!!
Thanks S-Driver for being here, we appreciate you !!
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S-Driver (03-23-2021),
Tragesaurusrex (07-09-2021)
#12
08-09-2021, 09:20 PM
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