My first DIY oil change
#1
My first DIY oil change
I am thinking of doing a DIY oil change on my 2005 R50 Mini automatic. My Mini has not started the countdown yet but it has been almost a yr since last one so I know she is due soon.
Anything special I should know?
Any good links to lists of what I will need?
I used to change my oil on other cars. Do I just need the oil and filter or there other things I will need? Is reseting the countdown easy or will I need a computer?
any good websites to walk me though?
Anything special I should know?
Any good links to lists of what I will need?
I used to change my oil on other cars. Do I just need the oil and filter or there other things I will need? Is reseting the countdown easy or will I need a computer?
any good websites to walk me though?
#2
DIY oil
There's probably 100 threads with information about oil changes including a very good DIY guide with plenty of pictures.
You need: oil, filter (with new o-ring) and a wrench to get the oil filter canister off - an odd size.....
Then you will find discussions of a number of issues such as:
- people that break the o-ring on the canister and subsequently spew oild over their driveway or garage
- people who find the Incredible Hulk put their oil plug in last time at the dealer and can't get the sucka out....and or tear up the head of the plug b4 they ask for help.
You need: oil, filter (with new o-ring) and a wrench to get the oil filter canister off - an odd size.....
Then you will find discussions of a number of issues such as:
- people that break the o-ring on the canister and subsequently spew oild over their driveway or garage
- people who find the Incredible Hulk put their oil plug in last time at the dealer and can't get the sucka out....and or tear up the head of the plug b4 they ask for help.
#3
DIY oil
There's probably 100 threads with information about oil changes including a very good DIY guide with plenty of pictures.
You need: oil, filter (with new o-ring) and a wrench to get the oil filter canister off - an odd size.....
Then you will find discussions of a number of issues such as:
- people that break the o-ring on the canister and subsequently spew oil over their driveway or garage
- people who find the Incredible Hulk put their oil plug in last time at the dealer and can't get the sucka out....and or tear up the head of the plug b4 they ask for help.
- and the reset procedure:
You need: oil, filter (with new o-ring) and a wrench to get the oil filter canister off - an odd size.....
Then you will find discussions of a number of issues such as:
- people that break the o-ring on the canister and subsequently spew oil over their driveway or garage
- people who find the Incredible Hulk put their oil plug in last time at the dealer and can't get the sucka out....and or tear up the head of the plug b4 they ask for help.
- people who discover a 1/2 wrench fits the plug better than the one recommended
- people who recommend replacing the bung with a FUMOTO the first time you do this
- and the reset procedure:
1) Press and hold the trip button
2) Insert key and turn to position 1
3) Watch for RESET to appear
4) Release the button, then press & hold it again
5) Wait for the RESET to flash
5) Wait for the RESET to flash
6) Release the button, and then press & release (once only)
7) Service interval should then be reset to next interval
I don't mean to be an a.. .... there's a TON of info in a bunch of different threads, starting with the DIY.... Try search, it works well.
Last edited by Capt_bj; 04-08-2009 at 03:57 PM.
#5
A couple of tips that I learned here on NAM that helped a lot:
1. After removing the drain plug and allowing most of the oil to drain, start to remove the filter housing. As you unscrew it, at some point you will feel the seal will be broken as the O-ring allows air in. Stop unscrewing at that point and let things sit for a few minutes more. Oil from the filter will drain out into your catch pan rather than onto your engine when you pull the filter off. (If you peer under the car after the seal is broken, you can actually see a bit more oil drain out from the drain hole.)
2. A couple of tricks to screwing the filter and housing back on to the engine are:
(a) Make sure the filter is pushed as far on to the central cylinder of the housing as possible. If it is not pushed all the way in it will be difficult for you to push the housing on to the engine and get it to screw in properly.
In the picture below, notice how much larger the hole in the old filter is compared to the new one. So, the filter fits really tight on that central cylinder and requires some push and twist to get it on all the way:
(b) As you are putting the housing back on make sure it is aligned properly. Give it a slight push then twist and start screwing it in. There will be some smooth resistance as you screw it in as the O-ring begins to catch (be sure to lubricate the o-ring with a little motor oil). If there is any hard resistance, you have cross threaded it. Stop and try again.
The last two times I changed oil I followed tip (a) and had no difficulty getting the housing back on.
Good luck!
1. After removing the drain plug and allowing most of the oil to drain, start to remove the filter housing. As you unscrew it, at some point you will feel the seal will be broken as the O-ring allows air in. Stop unscrewing at that point and let things sit for a few minutes more. Oil from the filter will drain out into your catch pan rather than onto your engine when you pull the filter off. (If you peer under the car after the seal is broken, you can actually see a bit more oil drain out from the drain hole.)
2. A couple of tricks to screwing the filter and housing back on to the engine are:
(a) Make sure the filter is pushed as far on to the central cylinder of the housing as possible. If it is not pushed all the way in it will be difficult for you to push the housing on to the engine and get it to screw in properly.
In the picture below, notice how much larger the hole in the old filter is compared to the new one. So, the filter fits really tight on that central cylinder and requires some push and twist to get it on all the way:
(b) As you are putting the housing back on make sure it is aligned properly. Give it a slight push then twist and start screwing it in. There will be some smooth resistance as you screw it in as the O-ring begins to catch (be sure to lubricate the o-ring with a little motor oil). If there is any hard resistance, you have cross threaded it. Stop and try again.
The last two times I changed oil I followed tip (a) and had no difficulty getting the housing back on.
Good luck!
#7
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#8
Have a breaker bar handy for the oil filter housing cap. 36mm socket. Very little room to play, so once you break it loose, and back it off a little you'll likely have to use your hands to finish backing the cap off. Gloves are a good idea.
On the oil drain plug, 13mm, six point socket, 1/2" drive, and a copper mallet for "encouragement" if necessary.
I prefer the NAPA Gold filters. #7303. Comes with the new o-ring for the cap, well constructed, better than Mann IMHO. Actually made by Wix.
On the oil drain plug, 13mm, six point socket, 1/2" drive, and a copper mallet for "encouragement" if necessary.
I prefer the NAPA Gold filters. #7303. Comes with the new o-ring for the cap, well constructed, better than Mann IMHO. Actually made by Wix.
#9
Since there is very little room to remove the canister one of the short 36mm sockets is very useful. Here is the link to the socket at mini mania but many other vendors sell a similar socket: http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NME1051/InvDetail.cfm
I made my own by cutting down a regular 36mm socket.
Before I put the new filter in the canister, I push the new filter onto the engine block to enlarge the hole. A little twist and push helps. I then remove the filter from the block and install it all the way down into the canister. Again, a little twist and push helps. Make sure you get it all the way down into the canister or it will be hard to start the canister threads when attaching to the engine block.
I made my own by cutting down a regular 36mm socket.
Before I put the new filter in the canister, I push the new filter onto the engine block to enlarge the hole. A little twist and push helps. I then remove the filter from the block and install it all the way down into the canister. Again, a little twist and push helps. Make sure you get it all the way down into the canister or it will be hard to start the canister threads when attaching to the engine block.
#10
Be sure to lubricate the new O-Ring!!!!!!!!
I changed my Oil yesterday after 8k since the last change and what happened last time had happened again, the new O-Ring broke causing some oil to spew out! *%&#!! It was all because the O-Ring wasn't lubricated well enough. Third time's a charm perhaps?
So I had to reuse the O-Ring that was already in there, but so far it hasn't leaked at all. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
And as others have said, it's relatively easy once you know what you're doing.
I changed my Oil yesterday after 8k since the last change and what happened last time had happened again, the new O-Ring broke causing some oil to spew out! *%&#!! It was all because the O-Ring wasn't lubricated well enough. Third time's a charm perhaps?
So I had to reuse the O-Ring that was already in there, but so far it hasn't leaked at all. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
And as others have said, it's relatively easy once you know what you're doing.
#11
I had the hardest time finding a 36mm socket, let alone a shallow one. I looked all over the place...until I thought to look with the other regular filter wrenches at the auto store. Went to Pepboys and there it was. It even said "recommended for New MINI Cooper" on the back along with a list of other vehicles.
If you're looking for one, go to the auto parts store and look by the oil filter wrenches!
If you're looking for one, go to the auto parts store and look by the oil filter wrenches!
#12
Best place to buy the 36mm socket is at Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14500-Oi...1584453&sr=8-1
As of today it only costs $7.04 with free shipping over $25 orders...and you know you can always find stuff to pad the order to $25 right?!
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14500-Oi...1584453&sr=8-1
As of today it only costs $7.04 with free shipping over $25 orders...and you know you can always find stuff to pad the order to $25 right?!
#14
If it isn't counting down you might want to visit the dealer.
Val
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