Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

DIY help please!

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  #26  
Old 05-04-2009 | 10:18 AM
searocko's Avatar
searocko
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 356
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From: Federal Way, WA
I used a torque wrench on all fasteners, that was a given. The AC compressor bolt was torqued using a straight extension. No universal joints needed that would affect the torque spec. My AC compressor did not need to be "whacked" to move it out of the way. Extra inches of clearance was not needed as I didn't need to rotate the compressor. Just needed to drop it down and away so I could get to the oil pan bolts.

To make it clearer, the plastic belly pan needed to be removed. Add 2 minutes to my procedure.

There are many ways to do a job. The "BMW" way is not gospel to me. You can spend half the day taking stuff off, or a couple hours doing it another way. Heck, it'll be easier to just pull the entire motor. Just giving people another option by sharing my experience. YMMV
 
  #27  
Old 05-04-2009 | 10:49 AM
mywifeisgoingtokillme!'s Avatar
mywifeisgoingtokillme!
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
That's great. You should take pictures of your procedure and post them. Yes you are right the BMW way should not be the gospel. It is the more Conservative approach. You can very easily bend or break a high compression AC hose without the proper clearance by not pulling the front end. It allows you to wire the AC compressor out of the way without dropping it too much. A broken or open AC line line will cost you $250 for a new Air dryer that has to be replaced. You can't just hooked it back up and recharge it if something goes wrong. The more conservative approach is usually the safest and least expensive in the long run. I subscribe to the motto “Lo barato sale caro.” Translates - “The cheap ends up expensive.” Kudos for you being extra careful. You're a better mechanic than the average DIYer and you have good luck!
 
  #28  
Old 05-04-2009 | 11:12 AM
searocko's Avatar
searocko
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 356
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From: Federal Way, WA
Thanks. I meant to take pictures but my camera battery died. Next time I will if I ever need to do it again, but it's probably unlikely anytime soon.
 
  #29  
Old 05-04-2009 | 11:21 AM
mywifeisgoingtokillme!'s Avatar
mywifeisgoingtokillme!
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 38
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HOPEFULLY you'll never have to replace your gasket. If you do take some pics, write it up and I'll convert it and post it on my blog with your credit! How do the baffles work compared to an oil catch can? I was thinking of doing one or the other. Oil catch can seemed an easier bolt on but baffles seem better for performance. Not sure which is best. Both maybe??
 
  #30  
Old 05-04-2009 | 11:37 AM
searocko's Avatar
searocko
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 356
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From: Federal Way, WA
The baffle performs a different function than a catch can. The catch can collects oil vapors in an attempt to keep your intercooler clean. The baffle is used to keep the oil pickup from starving under hard cornering. Since I take my car to the track, it's an insurance policy to prevent possible engine failure.

There are a couple of options to go with. You can purchase a replacement oil pan with welded in baffles or the route I went was to replace the OEM oil pickup with a modified one. This one has a cage that surrounds the pickup with swinging doors that open or close depending on cornering forces. This was considerably cheaper and in my opinion, as effective, than the other option.

 
  #31  
Old 05-04-2009 | 06:35 PM
ofioliti's Avatar
ofioliti
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 4
From: Always curious ...
Thanks for the insights IanF, searocko and mywifeisgoingtokillme!
 
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