Engine flat spots at 2,000 - 3,000 RPM
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Engine flat spots at 2,000 - 3,000 RPM
Car: Mini Cooper S 2005 58,000 miles, Cold air intake.
Well this started about 2 months ago. My engine runs fine but if i slam on it around 2,000 RPM (in any gear but rare in 1st and 2nd), my engine cuts out for about a milisecond a bunch of times before i hit 3,000 RPM's. Right about at 3,000 its fine. It feels as if im hitting bumps or rough spots on the road.
I fixed my intake hose and thought it went away but can still feel it. I pushed down on the spring on my by pass valve and it sound fine, smooth and without noise so my spring doesnt seem to be broke. Im just wondering if you guys have any ideas at all what this could be? Thanks!!!
Well this started about 2 months ago. My engine runs fine but if i slam on it around 2,000 RPM (in any gear but rare in 1st and 2nd), my engine cuts out for about a milisecond a bunch of times before i hit 3,000 RPM's. Right about at 3,000 its fine. It feels as if im hitting bumps or rough spots on the road.
I fixed my intake hose and thought it went away but can still feel it. I pushed down on the spring on my by pass valve and it sound fine, smooth and without noise so my spring doesnt seem to be broke. Im just wondering if you guys have any ideas at all what this could be? Thanks!!!
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#8
In the past few days I experienced a similar situation, although it is with my 2003 R50. I installed a K&N Typhoon two years ago and removed it after several months because it created a flat accelation spot from 2000-3800rpm.
I then installed the ALTA foam panel filter in the OEM box, which seemed to perform better. A few months later, I realized the performance had become significantly worse. I suspected it was due to some oil on the TMAP sensor. I removed the foam filter to clean and re-oil it and temporarily replaced it with an OEM paper filter. I was very surprised to find that the car suddenly started performing far better than it ever had with the Typhoon intake or the ALTA foam filter. Yesterday I tested using the foam filter to see if it was some kind of fluke. The performance immediately went from pretty good to pathetic. I then switched back to the paper filter and the better performance instantly returned. I haven't come up with all the specific reasons for this yet, but I have decided to keep the OEM intake setup and stop wasting money on upgrades that downgrade performance.
I then installed the ALTA foam panel filter in the OEM box, which seemed to perform better. A few months later, I realized the performance had become significantly worse. I suspected it was due to some oil on the TMAP sensor. I removed the foam filter to clean and re-oil it and temporarily replaced it with an OEM paper filter. I was very surprised to find that the car suddenly started performing far better than it ever had with the Typhoon intake or the ALTA foam filter. Yesterday I tested using the foam filter to see if it was some kind of fluke. The performance immediately went from pretty good to pathetic. I then switched back to the paper filter and the better performance instantly returned. I haven't come up with all the specific reasons for this yet, but I have decided to keep the OEM intake setup and stop wasting money on upgrades that downgrade performance.
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#10
Don't waste you money on the K&N, foam is a much better filter. Oil shouldn't be a problem for the first gen cars, but you could always use a bit of Seaform to clean out the intake. You could run it a bit w/o the filter with no problem as long as it isn't on a dusty or dirty road.
Just a bit of info on oiling the foam filters..........only use enough to make the surface tacky and make sure you don't have any areas with too much oil. Work it around so it is evenly distributed. This is much easier to do than with a pleated filter. That is why you hear of so many problems with K&N filters oiling up the intakes, no easy way of massaging the oil around.
Just a bit of info on oiling the foam filters..........only use enough to make the surface tacky and make sure you don't have any areas with too much oil. Work it around so it is evenly distributed. This is much easier to do than with a pleated filter. That is why you hear of so many problems with K&N filters oiling up the intakes, no easy way of massaging the oil around.
#11
In the past few days I experienced a similar situation, although it is with my 2003 R50. I installed a K&N Typhoon two years ago and removed it after several months because it created a flat accelation spot from 2000-3800rpm.
I then installed the ALTA foam panel filter in the OEM box, which seemed to perform better. A few months later, I realized the performance had become significantly worse. I suspected it was due to some oil on the TMAP sensor. I removed the foam filter to clean and re-oil it and temporarily replaced it with an OEM paper filter. I was very surprised to find that the car suddenly started performing far better than it ever had with the Typhoon intake or the ALTA foam filter. Yesterday I tested using the foam filter to see if it was some kind of fluke. The performance immediately went from pretty good to pathetic. I then switched back to the paper filter and the better performance instantly returned. I haven't come up with all the specific reasons for this yet, but I have decided to keep the OEM intake setup and stop wasting money on upgrades that downgrade performance.
I then installed the ALTA foam panel filter in the OEM box, which seemed to perform better. A few months later, I realized the performance had become significantly worse. I suspected it was due to some oil on the TMAP sensor. I removed the foam filter to clean and re-oil it and temporarily replaced it with an OEM paper filter. I was very surprised to find that the car suddenly started performing far better than it ever had with the Typhoon intake or the ALTA foam filter. Yesterday I tested using the foam filter to see if it was some kind of fluke. The performance immediately went from pretty good to pathetic. I then switched back to the paper filter and the better performance instantly returned. I haven't come up with all the specific reasons for this yet, but I have decided to keep the OEM intake setup and stop wasting money on upgrades that downgrade performance.
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What exactly would i look for when checking the plugs and is there a certain way to put them back in, or just screw them in to a specific torque? Thanks i just dont want to mess up anything more.
I tried an STP complete fuel system cleaner and nothing changed. Im assuming its the plugs so im gonna check them next.
I tried an STP complete fuel system cleaner and nothing changed. Im assuming its the plugs so im gonna check them next.
#16
It is your wires. I denied that as my problem for forever, and I had th exact same symptoms. I called it the 2500 pop, because it was almost exactly 2500 and then cleared up after 3-4k. Same as you, it never happened in first, second or rarely in third. I progressively got worse. Theres really no way to tell the wires are bad by looking at them. If i were rich i'd buy you wires, as thats how convinced I am that it's your problem.
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#20
#23
This does absolutely nothing for the ECU. The speedo reset or disconecting the battery is false.
Check out this thread https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-ecu-tune.html
Check out this thread https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-ecu-tune.html
#25
you might want to check the CrankVentilation hose it may be a cracked hose and or some times on the "S" the vaccum pressure coming off the hood it's the best when cruisin in the "S" but you should down shift and get the RPM's I recommend are for engine response 3500-4500 unless you want to save MPG.