wheel bearing replacement
#1
#2
You'll need to have a pneumatic air gun and a 1 1/4 inch or 32mm socket. The torque on the axle nut is a crazy 134ftlbs.
I had to have to work done at a shop because I have no pneumatic tools. The process would have been easy enough though.
You'll have to unbolt the caliper, remove the rotor, unbolt the axle nut, and then undo 4 bolts on the backside of the steering knuckle that go into the hub assembly. It should then come out.
Line up the splines and put the new one in. I don't think there is a specific orientation to it.
I'm not sure on all the torque values for the 4 hub bolts or caliper, but the torx that holds the rotor on is 20ftlbs and the axle nut is 134ftlbs. I can check my Bentley manual for more details when I get back home.
I had to have to work done at a shop because I have no pneumatic tools. The process would have been easy enough though.
You'll have to unbolt the caliper, remove the rotor, unbolt the axle nut, and then undo 4 bolts on the backside of the steering knuckle that go into the hub assembly. It should then come out.
Line up the splines and put the new one in. I don't think there is a specific orientation to it.
I'm not sure on all the torque values for the 4 hub bolts or caliper, but the torx that holds the rotor on is 20ftlbs and the axle nut is 134ftlbs. I can check my Bentley manual for more details when I get back home.
#3
To, perhaps, fill in some blanks....
According to the factory and Haynes the bearing/hub assembly is a sealed unit. You'll need to replace the entire hub. Some have claimed that anything can be rebuilt and I suppose this is true. But if you want to find a parts list, what you need is a hub. The good news is that the hub is a pretty straight forward replacement.
The steps above are almost it - just add removing the wheel speed sensor from the hub carrier after you remove the brake and b4 you remove the 4 bolts holding the hub (according to Haynes)
You can also find all needed torque specs there (costs less then the Bentley...sort of a Chevy )
According to the factory and Haynes the bearing/hub assembly is a sealed unit. You'll need to replace the entire hub. Some have claimed that anything can be rebuilt and I suppose this is true. But if you want to find a parts list, what you need is a hub. The good news is that the hub is a pretty straight forward replacement.
The steps above are almost it - just add removing the wheel speed sensor from the hub carrier after you remove the brake and b4 you remove the 4 bolts holding the hub (according to Haynes)
You can also find all needed torque specs there (costs less then the Bentley...sort of a Chevy )
#5
#7
A pneumatic wrench is not necessary to remove the axle nut, just loosen it with a long flex handle while the tire is still on the ground. When finished, torque it to 134 after the tire is back on the ground.
The wheel speed sensor does not need to be removed, at least on an 06. Just be gentle when pulling it out.
YD
The wheel speed sensor does not need to be removed, at least on an 06. Just be gentle when pulling it out.
YD
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When you are replaceing the wheel hubs make sure you get a quality hub.
There are many "asian" aftermarket hubs being sold. Stay away from them. They will not last.
The "Hub" is a precision unit. I'm not sure who the OEM hub is mfg. by. I have found that SKF has the MINI hubs available. They are more expensive, $185.00 each, but they are worth it.
Remember:
Quality prevents **** poor performance.
There are many "asian" aftermarket hubs being sold. Stay away from them. They will not last.
The "Hub" is a precision unit. I'm not sure who the OEM hub is mfg. by. I have found that SKF has the MINI hubs available. They are more expensive, $185.00 each, but they are worth it.
Remember:
Quality prevents **** poor performance.
#12
#13
We carry the OEM MINI and OES wheel bearing here, I have replaced mine with Febi in the past.
These are R50 R52 R53 production up to 7/2006 front wheel bearings. We also carry the kits to do both sides with hardware. Sometimes those bolts on the back can be pretty rusted.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/31226756889/
Here is a link where the torque values were talked about.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html
Thanks
These are R50 R52 R53 production up to 7/2006 front wheel bearings. We also carry the kits to do both sides with hardware. Sometimes those bolts on the back can be pretty rusted.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/31226756889/
Here is a link where the torque values were talked about.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html
Thanks
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#14
We carry the OEM MINI and OES wheel bearing here, I have replaced mine with Febi in the past.
These are R50 R52 R53 production up to 7/2006 front wheel bearings. We also carry the kits to do both sides with hardware. Sometimes those bolts on the back can be pretty rusted.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/31226756889/
Here is a link where the torque values were talked about.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html
Thanks
These are R50 R52 R53 production up to 7/2006 front wheel bearings. We also carry the kits to do both sides with hardware. Sometimes those bolts on the back can be pretty rusted.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/31226756889/
Here is a link where the torque values were talked about.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html
Thanks
Last edited by R53Andrew; 07-14-2015 at 11:22 AM.
#15
You are welcome. Just saw this post, looks like everything is gtg. Thanks
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#17
Just got the new bearing on yesterday and boy is it nice to hear the road again and no more bearing grind. First time changing one, so it took a couple hours to work my way through it, but it was not terrible.
After getting everything back together, I now have the ABS/DSC/Tire pressure lights on when the car is on... Do I just need to reset these with the tire pressure button below the handbrake? or does it sound like a broke a sensor wire? I was pretty careful with the caliper unit and the wires connecting to it, and didn't disconnect any wires in the process.
After getting everything back together, I now have the ABS/DSC/Tire pressure lights on when the car is on... Do I just need to reset these with the tire pressure button below the handbrake? or does it sound like a broke a sensor wire? I was pretty careful with the caliper unit and the wires connecting to it, and didn't disconnect any wires in the process.
#18
Sounds like you bumped or broke the head of the ABS sensor. Also try re-pluging the ABS sensor into the plug socket, did you unplug it ?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ed-sensor.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ed-sensor.html
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#19
Thanks for the response, that is what i figured. I didn't unplug any wires, left everything where it was. I saw the head of the sensor in there when I pulled the old hub off, and it looked fine. I didn't mess with it, and just put the new hub on and got everything back together. If they are as fragile as it sounds, then I probably bumped the head of the sensor and broke it.
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