car dies coming to a stop only w AC on and high outside temps
#1
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car dies coming to a stop only w AC on and high outside temps
hey guys,
i'm having this problem only when it's hot. when i'm coming to a stop the motor just dies and i have to restart it. i am running the ac and it is hot outside like 90 degrees. i'm going to change my radiator fan due to what i think is the resistor issue.
i just wanted to know if that's the culprit or is there something i should check?
i have a 03 mcs modded w ported heads,shrick cam, jcw injectors, larger tb, jcw cai,fidanza flywheel,stock clutch w 10k miles on it, invidia catback.
new coilpack, new plugwires.
93k miles on the odo
thanks all
i'm having this problem only when it's hot. when i'm coming to a stop the motor just dies and i have to restart it. i am running the ac and it is hot outside like 90 degrees. i'm going to change my radiator fan due to what i think is the resistor issue.
i just wanted to know if that's the culprit or is there something i should check?
i have a 03 mcs modded w ported heads,shrick cam, jcw injectors, larger tb, jcw cai,fidanza flywheel,stock clutch w 10k miles on it, invidia catback.
new coilpack, new plugwires.
93k miles on the odo
thanks all
Last edited by rcantu; 07-15-2009 at 11:57 PM.
#4
Im willing to bet with the cams lopey idle plus the fact that when the MCS goes into greanpeace mode (starts doing that burning gas vapors thing that they all do) its enough to stall it out. I have a mild cam and I notice it more during hot weather and when you run AC it puts more strain on that already straining to keep up that low rpm idle. So im thinking Lopey idle+AC drag+EPA thingy wich makes the vacum act wierd on the S model = stall
Sorry for my crap typage
Sorry for my crap typage
#6
Same problem-
I have exactly the same problem with my 2006 Cooper 35k miles. This happened July 16 for the first time, I was in process of making a right turn, and I was able to restart the car after waiting for a couple of minutes
I'm not knowledgeable about car mechanics so I am a little unclear about what these responses mean. I called the dealer and they aren't too interested in the problem but still I'd like to take the car in to be checked out but am unsure what to suggest they check since they seem to need some prodding -
Any suggestions?
Thank you-
I'm not knowledgeable about car mechanics so I am a little unclear about what these responses mean. I called the dealer and they aren't too interested in the problem but still I'd like to take the car in to be checked out but am unsure what to suggest they check since they seem to need some prodding -
Any suggestions?
Thank you-
#7
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#9
OK, I've done some quick research on the parts you have installed on your car. Given that the heat in Southern California is pretty ridiculous and the oxygenated gas Cali is known for, your knock-retard is working overtime. Now, I see you've got lots of airflow upgrades (CAI, Cam, TB, Exhaust) and your fuel injectors upgraded from 330cc to 380cc.
Here's my thinking: Your engine computer [still in stock form] is trying to add fuel as though it still has 330cc injectors. While it's trying to control detonation at idle with your AC on, it has already maxed out ignition retard and is now trying to send more fuel in there to cool things down. HOWEVER it doesn't know it has 380cc injector so the little bit of fuel it thinks it's adding is substantially more. This could very possibly lead to stalling.
Here's what I would try before blowing $120 at the dealer for an hour of diagnostic: If you still have the stock injectors- replace the JCW's with the original injectors and test drive it for a while. If you DON'T have the stock injectors... then... I'll try and think of something else.
Is your Check Engine light on? If you have access to some kind of scan tool go ahead and check for codes even if the light isn't on. German cars store sporadic codes in the ECM until it's erased during your service.
Let me know!
Here's my thinking: Your engine computer [still in stock form] is trying to add fuel as though it still has 330cc injectors. While it's trying to control detonation at idle with your AC on, it has already maxed out ignition retard and is now trying to send more fuel in there to cool things down. HOWEVER it doesn't know it has 380cc injector so the little bit of fuel it thinks it's adding is substantially more. This could very possibly lead to stalling.
Here's what I would try before blowing $120 at the dealer for an hour of diagnostic: If you still have the stock injectors- replace the JCW's with the original injectors and test drive it for a while. If you DON'T have the stock injectors... then... I'll try and think of something else.
Is your Check Engine light on? If you have access to some kind of scan tool go ahead and check for codes even if the light isn't on. German cars store sporadic codes in the ECM until it's erased during your service.
Let me know!
#10
Jeesh, alot of mods there.
One thing that stands out with all those mods is the lack of a fuel pump upgrade ?
Are you running any codes ?
JCW injectors are NOT plug and play as some indicate in our Marketplace. They will blow same as stock 330's absent a JCW flash of your ECU. That said, swapping them out will make no difference.
Have the dealer give your ECU a JCW flash to enable the injectors, that should clear it up..right now it sounds like your engines demands are exceeding the fuel systems abilities to provide enough fuel.....
One thing that stands out with all those mods is the lack of a fuel pump upgrade ?
Are you running any codes ?
JCW injectors are NOT plug and play as some indicate in our Marketplace. They will blow same as stock 330's absent a JCW flash of your ECU. That said, swapping them out will make no difference.
Have the dealer give your ECU a JCW flash to enable the injectors, that should clear it up..right now it sounds like your engines demands are exceeding the fuel systems abilities to provide enough fuel.....
Last edited by -=gRaY rAvEn=-; 07-18-2009 at 06:53 PM.
#11
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