P1125
#1
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Camano Island, WA, but wish was still Oahu, Hawaii
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P1125
Seeking information. I've been getting this P1125 everyone in a great while, but today while driving through the mountains, it went into limp mode 5 times, and stalled an uncountable amount of times. I get this P1125 (also P0172, but that's another story, unless they're connected somehow?). Turning the car off, waiting 10 sec, then restarting it would no longer be in limp mode.
Looking through the internet, I find couple of choices.
TB and/or wiring harness. Well, both of these were replaced in Feb, so I'm hoping not again.
I had just ordered a new GRS intercooler since it looked like my stocker had sprung a leak (dark spot growing in one small area of the intercooler, which last time that happened dealer replaced under warranty).
So, would/could a leak in the intercooler cause this? Or am I really gonna have to replace the TB yet again? If I replace it, it's going to be a Dinan or GTT if I can scrape one up.
Looking through the internet, I find couple of choices.
TB and/or wiring harness. Well, both of these were replaced in Feb, so I'm hoping not again.
I had just ordered a new GRS intercooler since it looked like my stocker had sprung a leak (dark spot growing in one small area of the intercooler, which last time that happened dealer replaced under warranty).
So, would/could a leak in the intercooler cause this? Or am I really gonna have to replace the TB yet again? If I replace it, it's going to be a Dinan or GTT if I can scrape one up.
#3
the 1125 is tps . there are two coils or whatever in the pedal device . they compare to eachother constantly (sort of a fail safe ., redundancy type deal) . seems like they dont compare well anymore . did the 0172 happen in the mountains? air thin up there ; so maybe they related . if a tps is cheap enough i'd swap it . or at least check the outputs . do a search . one guy was having tps trouble and it was corroded connector .
well i just did a search and apparently the code is referring to thr throttle body position and not the pedal position . so yeah they probably are related . check all connections to throttle body . clean throttlebody and try it . go to the search area and type in 1125 . and read spider x's posts .
well i just did a search and apparently the code is referring to thr throttle body position and not the pedal position . so yeah they probably are related . check all connections to throttle body . clean throttlebody and try it . go to the search area and type in 1125 . and read spider x's posts .
Last edited by herbie hind; 02-14-2010 at 06:23 PM. Reason: addition
#5
tps stands for throttle position sensor . being our cars are fly by wire i jumped on that . instead of throttle plate . check your connectors really good . unplug the battery and check inside the connectors at the ecu (computer ) it's next to air box . these are known to get corroded . you may be able to clean them with a battery cleaner spray as long as it's safe for all plastics . make sure to let them drycompletely .
#7
wash your engine = P1125 code?
I am stumped. I changed my oil and cleaned my Throttle then gave a light over spray wash to my engine and the car idles rough and nearly dies. Then the CEL and EML light turn on. My OBD2 says P1125. I did a search on how to fix this and found nothing. This happened last night and I thought that if I dry the throttle body off and let it sit overnight that it should be fine in the morning. It was!.......I took it down the road and hit 50mph, down shifted to get the rpms up to 4500 and no lights! Then I get home let it sit for a bit (30 mins) and start it up so I can sweep my garage and the CEl and EML lights turn on, again rough idle and it starts to die. ![Mad](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Can it be that the engine is so delicate that it can't get wet?![Impatient](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/impatient.gif)
![Mad](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Impatient](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/impatient.gif)
The OBD readout states:
DTC: P1125
Fuel system 1 status: Closed Loop
Fuel System 2 Status: Not supported
Calculated load value: 95.29%
Engine coolant temp: 199.40F
Short term fuel Trim - Bank 1: 7.81%
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 8.59%
Intake manifold Absolute Pressure: 29.83inHg.
Engine rpm: 2122 rpm
![Mad](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Can it be that the engine is so delicate that it can't get wet?
![Impatient](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/impatient.gif)
![Mad](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Impatient](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/impatient.gif)
The OBD readout states:
DTC: P1125
Fuel system 1 status: Closed Loop
Fuel System 2 Status: Not supported
Calculated load value: 95.29%
Engine coolant temp: 199.40F
Short term fuel Trim - Bank 1: 7.81%
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 8.59%
Intake manifold Absolute Pressure: 29.83inHg.
Engine rpm: 2122 rpm
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#8
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#11
Time to resurrect this thread. My MINI threw up P1125 and P1126 last night on the drive home from work. Limped home, and got in touch with a fellow Sin City MINI Club member who has a scangaugeII, and he was able to read and clear the codes. I'm going to go ahead and take the MINI to work tonight, and keep my fingers crossed....
This morning, I went to Autozone and picked up the ScangaugeII, so I always have it with me. Pretty slick little device, hope I don't have to use it for codes for awhile.
Anyone had any other problems? How did you clean the TB? Mine was replaced by the dealer, and still has 2 years warranty left. Should I see about getting it replaced?
This morning, I went to Autozone and picked up the ScangaugeII, so I always have it with me. Pretty slick little device, hope I don't have to use it for codes for awhile.
Anyone had any other problems? How did you clean the TB? Mine was replaced by the dealer, and still has 2 years warranty left. Should I see about getting it replaced?
#12
Anytime a code that comes up with the first number being a 0 is a universal code that covers just about any car, however, a code that starts with a 1 is a manufacturer code, which is a little more serious, so be careful.
here's a quick reference guide to OBD II codes ( the P1### are near the bottom)
http://www.nology.com/OBD2FaultCodes.htm
here's a quick reference guide to OBD II codes ( the P1### are near the bottom)
http://www.nology.com/OBD2FaultCodes.htm
#16
Join Date: May 2012
Location: St Thomas us virgin islands
Posts: 13
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Hope this helps..
I'm no mechanic, and with that said, I have learned a great deal in the two + years of owning my fabulous Mini (07 s conv) I had my Mini shipped to St Thomas and the day after receiving her she threw the codes 1125 1229.. Both throttle body. The original owner replaced the tb under the hood. I replaced the gas pedal. Temporary relief. I came across a thread re the connection on the engine harness and it suggested crimping the prongs that make the connection (female to male) So we did, and success. Then a month later intermittent 1125, and limping... Replacing an entire engine harness seemed excessive and costly, using ob11 scanner to clear the code and get running again impractical! So a year ago my husband crimped the prongs a lot!!
The super crimp has kept Phoebe from throwing those codes ever since!
It may seem simple but with the jarring of the island roads, the connection/prongs loosens and the connection is lost... It would seem that Mini is well aware of this glitch.. With that there's always a solution!! Good luck
The super crimp has kept Phoebe from throwing those codes ever since!
It may seem simple but with the jarring of the island roads, the connection/prongs loosens and the connection is lost... It would seem that Mini is well aware of this glitch.. With that there's always a solution!! Good luck
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