How can I identify a cold start problem?
#1
How can I identify a cold start problem?
I was wondering today. I started my car, and the usual clatter was a bit louder.
From what I understand, direct injection means the engine makes a bit more noise than usual. But this time, it was different.. it was a bit louder, but it went away in seconds.
How can I reliably identify whether it's the cold start problem? I'd assume the noise the car would make would be very similar to a loud diesel truck. Am I correct?
From what I understand, direct injection means the engine makes a bit more noise than usual. But this time, it was different.. it was a bit louder, but it went away in seconds.
How can I reliably identify whether it's the cold start problem? I'd assume the noise the car would make would be very similar to a loud diesel truck. Am I correct?
#2
You have the right idea. Definitely sounds like an old diesel. Direct injection noise is normal but the old diesel sound is a loud clatter. The DI sound is more dampened too and doesn't have the sharp sound the clatter does. It's also comparable to the sound an engine makes without any oil! Think metal to metal tapping.
#3
#6
If, immediately after starting the vehicle, you hear yourself say loudly "Holy S***! What the f*** was that!!!", then I'd say you might have the problem.
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#7
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#8
That is pretty close to what went through my mind the first time I heard it... LOL
#9
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yes, very loud m2m tapping, coming from the glovebox area. like a little toy snowblower. 20 secs to a couple minutes. no cels or codes thrown, car otherwise idles smooth. best not to drive until it goes away.
a lot of people think the DI is the cold start knock and it's not. The latter is its own unique beast.
OP if U can, park yr car nose down, let it go cold 6+ hours, and see if U can reproduce it. If so, take it in.
Dealers are much more aware of this now than say six months ago, and the tensioner check is pretty fast.
My car's going in to have the front clip repainted (botched dealer c/b job) so I hope it knocks for them, real loud, like it did for me twice--parked nose down both times, dead cold.
a lot of people think the DI is the cold start knock and it's not. The latter is its own unique beast.
OP if U can, park yr car nose down, let it go cold 6+ hours, and see if U can reproduce it. If so, take it in.
Dealers are much more aware of this now than say six months ago, and the tensioner check is pretty fast.
My car's going in to have the front clip repainted (botched dealer c/b job) so I hope it knocks for them, real loud, like it did for me twice--parked nose down both times, dead cold.
#12
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This is likely the timing chain issue we've been seeing lately - the chain has too much slack and until fully warmed up slaps/drags against the cover. Make sure you describe it like this - loud grinding/dragging chain noise when first starting, cold starts; that should alert them to the SIB and get your car fixed - it'll take the better part of an entire day, too, so keep that in mind.
There are cases where the same concern above is just due to low oil - check the oil level yourself to confirm it's ok (not just for your own benefit, but to avoid having the dealer write your concern off to low oil level)
There are cases where the same concern above is just due to low oil - check the oil level yourself to confirm it's ok (not just for your own benefit, but to avoid having the dealer write your concern off to low oil level)
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