Low Speed Fan Resistor - we need solution
#1177
Let the engine run at idle and turn on the air conditioner. After a few minutes, the radiator fan should start to cycle on and off about once every 1-2 minutes. If the fan does turn on, it's fine. If not, the low speed resistor is probably burned out.
#1178
Even now in the winter when the ambient temp is in the 40s?
#1179
I believe it should, as long as the AC reaches a certain pressure -- see post #1127. Maybe the engine needs to be warmed up, but on my car even starting from cold engine, I only have to wait a few minutes of idle. You can just try it -- if the fan turns on, you're good. If you have an electrical meter, you can check the resistance between ground and low speed pins in the connector (video link in that post).
#1180
I did the above - turned on car and had AC running. After about 2 minutes, I believe the high speed fan came on (sounded like a jet engine) for about 5 seconds, then cut off. 30-45 seconds later, it repeated. I assume that means I don't have the low speed fan at all? Anything else I should check, or should I go ahead and plan on doing the resister swap out (which may be a bit beyond me)? Thanks for any help!
#1181
I did the above - turned on car and had AC running. After about 2 minutes, I believe the high speed fan came on (sounded like a jet engine) for about 5 seconds, then cut off. 30-45 seconds later, it repeated. I assume that means I don't have the low speed fan at all? Anything else I should check, or should I go ahead and plan on doing the resister swap out (which may be a bit beyond me)? Thanks for any help!
As for swapping the resistor -- I read all the DIYs... and at the end I decided just buying a TYC fan from RockAuto for $84.92 shipped.. it comes with a lifetime warranty. The swap took about 45 minutes with me having little confidence and/or knowledge of the procedure. It was also my first time taking the front bumper off.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html
Just posting this here so the next person to encounter it -- has the DIY. Doing the resistor mod requires the same pulling the fan out.. so its basically the same amount of time...but only costs $30.
#1182
The low speed is actually pretty loud. Seems like you're fine. What you did isn't enough to kick on the high speed.
#1183
Maybe I should try it again and let the AC run for longer to see what happens? Any other test I can do to see if both the low and high speed are working on my fan unit? Still reading through all 1,000+ posts in this thread, really learning a lot. Hoping to attempt an easy solution first so I don't have to dismantle the entire front end, if possible....
2004 R50.
#1184
Sorry RkW it's really not. I've never heard my Low speed from inside the car at all. With the hood down I can barely hear my low speed fan. I have to peak in to see that it's actually spinning.
#1185
In my car, I do hear the low speed from inside. But in any case, I don't think mattymini should be concerned. The fan is turning on at the expected time for low speed. if the resistor was burned out, the fan wouldn't come on at all.
#1186
This thread has proved useful to a lot of people. In general, if you are not getting the fan to run unless the AC is on your Low Speed fan is shot. The danger comes in -- when the AC Clutch coil goes out (another common failure point) and then you get no hi speed fan on demand (happened to me). The high speed fan will not come on until 221 or 231 (can't remember).
As for swapping the resistor -- I read all the DIYs... and at the end I decided just buying a TYC fan from RockAuto for $84.92 shipped.. it comes with a lifetime warranty. The swap took about 45 minutes with me having little confidence and/or knowledge of the procedure. It was also my first time taking the front bumper off.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html
Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfGaQNXJNHo
Just posting this here so the next person to encounter it -- has the DIY. Doing the resistor mod requires the same pulling the fan out.. so its basically the same amount of time...but only costs $30.
Sent from my XT1060 using NAMotoring
#1187
This is correct -- replacing the resistor requires the same effort. Resistor mod is quite a bit simpler -- and I think the cost of the resistor and heat sink have come down A LOT and more readily available since this thread started.
#1188
Wouldn't it still come on high speed once the AC builds up more pressure?
#1189
Is this "resister mod" able to be done to a 2004 R50? Any link to the proper resister to obtain, and a DIY for best place to mount it? I assume you do this "downstream" from the wire connection/harness so if you later replace the entire fan unit you're still dealing with original wiring "upstream" from that connector?
Thanks again for all of the help here!
I'm only up to page 11 of this thread so far...
#1190
Hi!
This is the Resistor I Use.
N' My Low Speed Works Really Good.
Almost A Year and No One Problem
Everything Works Fine.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Produ...52b%2fuQ%3d%3d
This is the Resistor I Use.
N' My Low Speed Works Really Good.
Almost A Year and No One Problem
Everything Works Fine.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Produ...52b%2fuQ%3d%3d
#1192
for anyone wanting a quick resistor test on a later model, go unplug the fan connector. on the fan side, you should have a black wire (ground) a thick red wire (full fan speed) and a thinner red wire (resistor fan speed).
hook the black wire to ground with a jumper wire and just touch it to the shock tower, or any exposed non-painted bolt. then hook up another wire to the thick red wire connection and hit the battery positive with it. the fan should spin up full speed.
now just move the wire from the thick red to the thin red. if the fan spins, your resistor is good. if it doesn't (like mine), then it's new resistor time!
hook the black wire to ground with a jumper wire and just touch it to the shock tower, or any exposed non-painted bolt. then hook up another wire to the thick red wire connection and hit the battery positive with it. the fan should spin up full speed.
now just move the wire from the thick red to the thin red. if the fan spins, your resistor is good. if it doesn't (like mine), then it's new resistor time!
Is this safe to do? If so, I'll try it this evening to verify that my low speed is shot.
#1193
Can anyone confirm for me that this...
will work? If so will order and install in the next few weeks. Looks much cheaper than other options! Confirmed last night via voltmeter that low speed is fried. Great thread!
Amico Aluminum Shell Chassis Mounted 100W Watt 0.33 Ohm 5% Wirewound Resistor: Single Resistors: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
will work? If so will order and install in the next few weeks. Looks much cheaper than other options! Confirmed last night via voltmeter that low speed is fried. Great thread!
#1194
#1195
Thanks so much Chris, and to all who helped with this thread. Have no idea how long I've even had this issue, may have had it for the entire time I've owned the car (which is now ~70k miles and 6 years). I'm going to have a mechanic buddy of mine help with the install (I've never drilled/tapped anything - no jokes please!).
#1196
Can anyone confirm for me that this...
will work? If so will order and install in the next few weeks. Looks much cheaper than other options! Confirmed last night via voltmeter that low speed is fried. Great thread!
Amico Aluminum Shell Chassis Mounted 100W Watt 0.33 Ohm 5% Wirewound Resistor: Single Resistors: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
will work? If so will order and install in the next few weeks. Looks much cheaper than other options! Confirmed last night via voltmeter that low speed is fried. Great thread!
#1197
Great, thanks. What's your 2" strip of aluminum stock attached to? I assume you have some heat transfer paste/substance between the resistor and the aluminum stock, but what about between it and the vehicle?
#1198
Thermal paste between the resistor and 2" aluminum strip. Found a bolt that fits a threaded hole on the frame. If I remember I'll post a pic later.