Low Speed Fan Resistor - we need solution
#1326
It's cold but the blowing action is super weak... about as strong as having enphazema and blowing someone a kiss
By barely pushes any air do you mean cold air out of the vents, or volume of air out of the vents?
Have you found a certified AC repair shop? Start with finding out how much freon is in the system.
Is there any oil or debris blocking the condenser, and keeping you from properly cooling the freon charge?
Here is a link to the resistor instructions: DT Resistor Instructions
Have you found a certified AC repair shop? Start with finding out how much freon is in the system.
Is there any oil or debris blocking the condenser, and keeping you from properly cooling the freon charge?
Here is a link to the resistor instructions: DT Resistor Instructions
#1327
Diagnostic steps
I have read and read, and I’m still confused on some of these issues. Can someone help me out, so I can make sure I understand correctly?
I have an ’04 Mini Cooper S MC40 edition. My air conditioner went out about 2 years ago, and the dealership I bought it from fixed it under warranty. They said they replaced everything, compressor, condenser, hoses, etc. Afterwards, the AC worked great.
About 18 months ago, my AC went out again. I brought it back to them and they kept it for a week, then called me to tell me they couldn’t fix it. They said the compressor and everything worked perfectly, but there was an electrical issue somewhere in the system and only Mini dealerships would have access to the schematics to fix it (this was a Nissan dealership, the nearest Mini dealership is about 4 hours away from me.)
Since then, I’ve been driving around with no air conditioning. It’s worth mentioning that I live in Louisiana, where it’s routinely 100+ for at least 7 or 8 months out of the year. I’ve been managing it by carrying an ice pack with me on the 45 minute commute to work and back, but I really wanna fix it.
I’ve been assuming that the fan resistor is the issue. I was planning to just replace the entire fan, but cost has me reconsidering the resistor. But before I start splicing wires, I wanted to make sure this is the correct issue.
First, the low speed fan does not seem to be working. I just cranked the car and turned the A/C on, and the fan did not move. That sounds like the low speed fan is out, right?
However, the car never overheats, and I’ve driven probably 30,000 miles since the A/C first went out. If the low speed fan wasn’t working, wouldn’t I have overheating issues while driving that much in 104 degree weather? Granted, most of that is on the interstate, but even driving in town or stuck in traffic, no overheating. Ever.
Also, my A/C never blows anything but hot air. Once the car gets hot enough to kick on the high speed fan, wouldn’t the A/C start blowing cold again?
I’d read about this issue when my A/C went out the first time, so I haven’t run the compressor at all since the fans went out, other than in short spurts (usually 30 seconds, never more than a minute) to see if it’s working or not. I’ve been adamant about that to make sure I didn’t blow my compressor, since the car is no longer under warranty.
So, does this sound like replacing the fan or resistor would fix my issue, or do I have a different problem or a combination of problems?
Thanks so much for your time. You guys are awesome.
I have an ’04 Mini Cooper S MC40 edition. My air conditioner went out about 2 years ago, and the dealership I bought it from fixed it under warranty. They said they replaced everything, compressor, condenser, hoses, etc. Afterwards, the AC worked great.
About 18 months ago, my AC went out again. I brought it back to them and they kept it for a week, then called me to tell me they couldn’t fix it. They said the compressor and everything worked perfectly, but there was an electrical issue somewhere in the system and only Mini dealerships would have access to the schematics to fix it (this was a Nissan dealership, the nearest Mini dealership is about 4 hours away from me.)
Since then, I’ve been driving around with no air conditioning. It’s worth mentioning that I live in Louisiana, where it’s routinely 100+ for at least 7 or 8 months out of the year. I’ve been managing it by carrying an ice pack with me on the 45 minute commute to work and back, but I really wanna fix it.
I’ve been assuming that the fan resistor is the issue. I was planning to just replace the entire fan, but cost has me reconsidering the resistor. But before I start splicing wires, I wanted to make sure this is the correct issue.
First, the low speed fan does not seem to be working. I just cranked the car and turned the A/C on, and the fan did not move. That sounds like the low speed fan is out, right?
However, the car never overheats, and I’ve driven probably 30,000 miles since the A/C first went out. If the low speed fan wasn’t working, wouldn’t I have overheating issues while driving that much in 104 degree weather? Granted, most of that is on the interstate, but even driving in town or stuck in traffic, no overheating. Ever.
Also, my A/C never blows anything but hot air. Once the car gets hot enough to kick on the high speed fan, wouldn’t the A/C start blowing cold again?
I’d read about this issue when my A/C went out the first time, so I haven’t run the compressor at all since the fans went out, other than in short spurts (usually 30 seconds, never more than a minute) to see if it’s working or not. I’ve been adamant about that to make sure I didn’t blow my compressor, since the car is no longer under warranty.
So, does this sound like replacing the fan or resistor would fix my issue, or do I have a different problem or a combination of problems?
Thanks so much for your time. You guys are awesome.
I wonder how they determined that everything was working if the system isn't working?? Does this mean they jumper-ed the compressor coil relay to engage it and it blows cold, but using the dash control doesn't engage the coil? If so, then yes it would require knowledge of the electronic controls to fix it. You need to determine this before pondering if the fan has anything to do with it. On the fan, you do not need the fan when moving above maybe about 30 mph, the cars movement is enough, so if no A/C at speed it's not a fan issue. This goes for engine cooling as well.
Is it actually HOT air, or just not cold? There is a baffle in the heat exchanger box in the dash that switches the air flow from the A/C evaporator coil to the heater coil. Maybe the air handler baffle is stuck on hot or half way. The A/C is working but mixing cold and hot air. The baffle 'motor' that moves the baffle is located next to the glove box. See if that is working.
#1328
You have it backwards. The A/C system needs to achieve a certain level of pressure before it triggers the low speed fan. So your non-working A/C isn't triggering the fan, not the other way around. Your low speed fan may or may not be working (not enough information in your post to know). In any case, the A/C operates independently and the radiator fan doesn't prevent it from working.
#1329
#1331
#1332
#1333
#1334
I used an upgraded version by uro parts purchased on ebay, protects more from the elements with a plastic shield.
replacement part
original exposed to elements and all beat up
part comparison
heat shrink connectors
new connectors installed
installed
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2008-Mi...M/161460734928
replacement part
original exposed to elements and all beat up
part comparison
heat shrink connectors
new connectors installed
installed
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2008-Mi...M/161460734928
The following users liked this post:
Charlie Victor (10-27-2017)
#1335
I used an upgraded version by uro parts purchased on ebay, protects more from the elements with a plastic shield.
...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2008-Mi...M/161460734928
...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2008-Mi...M/161460734928
#1336
Help
Hi Guys,
I'm in need of implementing this fix for our fan that stays on and runs down our battery. I'm trying to make heads or tails of the wiring diagram, https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3732961, but am confused. Having all the wires red doesn't help.
What I'm confused about is the "a" and "b" sides of the resistor. In the picture in the link, is "a" at the top or bottom? I haven't gotten the resistor yet so does it say on the resistor itself?
There's an arrow pointing to the "low-speed fan" wire. After the wire is cut, the length running to the fan stays unattached?
The red wire that comes out of the "fan socket (to car)" and is not wrapped with the other wires. I'm assuming this is a new length of wire. How is it inserted into the socket? Is it an easy thing to do?
Sorry if my questions are stupid. I haven't done much electrical work in cars other than installing stereo systems back in the day. And never had to deal with sockets. Just trying not to pay $590 to my mechanic to replace the fan!!!
Thanks for any help,
Manny
I'm in need of implementing this fix for our fan that stays on and runs down our battery. I'm trying to make heads or tails of the wiring diagram, https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3732961, but am confused. Having all the wires red doesn't help.
What I'm confused about is the "a" and "b" sides of the resistor. In the picture in the link, is "a" at the top or bottom? I haven't gotten the resistor yet so does it say on the resistor itself?
There's an arrow pointing to the "low-speed fan" wire. After the wire is cut, the length running to the fan stays unattached?
The red wire that comes out of the "fan socket (to car)" and is not wrapped with the other wires. I'm assuming this is a new length of wire. How is it inserted into the socket? Is it an easy thing to do?
Sorry if my questions are stupid. I haven't done much electrical work in cars other than installing stereo systems back in the day. And never had to deal with sockets. Just trying not to pay $590 to my mechanic to replace the fan!!!
Thanks for any help,
Manny
#1337
Basically what happens is the electricity comes from the low speed side of the plug off to the resistor, then back to the high-speed wiring to the fan.
That is what happens at the fan resistor too. From the low speed wire, through the included resistor, to the fan terminal. This way the resistor is in a better spot for longevity.
Side A and B on the resistor don't matter. As long as you attach the two wires to the different ends of the resistor it will all work.
Jamea
That is what happens at the fan resistor too. From the low speed wire, through the included resistor, to the fan terminal. This way the resistor is in a better spot for longevity.
Side A and B on the resistor don't matter. As long as you attach the two wires to the different ends of the resistor it will all work.
Jamea
#1338
Basically what happens is the electricity comes from the low speed side of the plug off to the resistor, then back to the high-speed wiring to the fan.
That is what happens at the fan resistor too. From the low speed wire, through the included resistor, to the fan terminal. This way the resistor is in a better spot for longevity.
Side A and B on the resistor don't matter. As long as you attach the two wires to the different ends of the resistor it will all work.
Jamea
That is what happens at the fan resistor too. From the low speed wire, through the included resistor, to the fan terminal. This way the resistor is in a better spot for longevity.
Side A and B on the resistor don't matter. As long as you attach the two wires to the different ends of the resistor it will all work.
Jamea
I've ordered the resistor and it should be here in a couple of days. I'm eager to fix our fan problem as it has left my wife stranded on many occasions. Good thing we have AAA.
#1341
I think your problem is something else. When you say "stranded", do you mean from overheating? It could be caused by a bad thermostat, relay, the fan itself, or something else in the cooling system.
#1342
Can you elaborate on this? A bad low speed resistor will not leave you stranded. The engine gets warmer and the high speed fan will kick on when it reaches a certain temperature.
I think your problem is something else. When you say "stranded", do you mean from overheating? It could be caused by a bad thermostat, relay, the fan itself, or something else in the cooling system.
I think your problem is something else. When you say "stranded", do you mean from overheating? It could be caused by a bad thermostat, relay, the fan itself, or something else in the cooling system.
#1343
To clarify... you're saying that after turning the car off, the fan continues to run until it drains the battery.
There have been some threads on the topic. I don't think it is related to the low speed resistor. Hopefully someone will chime in.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...p-running.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-turn-off.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...car-r53-s.html
There have been some threads on the topic. I don't think it is related to the low speed resistor. Hopefully someone will chime in.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...p-running.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-turn-off.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...car-r53-s.html
#1344
To clarify... you're saying that after turning the car off, the fan continues to run until it drains the battery.
There have been some threads on the topic. I don't think it is related to the low speed resistor. Hopefully someone will chime in.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...p-running.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-turn-off.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...car-r53-s.html
There have been some threads on the topic. I don't think it is related to the low speed resistor. Hopefully someone will chime in.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...p-running.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-turn-off.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...car-r53-s.html
I thought because the low speed fan isn't turning on, thus the hi-speed fan comes on and stays on. My mechanic was unable to replicate the problem cause they will only drive the car for about 15 minutes. Not long enough.
They replaced the temp sensor for free. But not the problem. They are saying that if they can't find the cause, the fan is the next item. And will cost $590!!!
I will try the resistor before shelling out that kind of cash.
#1345
mcw, what year is your car? There's a known problem with the power steering pump continously running after the car is shut off on first gen cars which could be the problem you're having. It leads to batteries dying if you're lucky, to cars catching on fire if you're not. If your car was built in Feb 2005 or earlier, it should qualify for the power steering pump recall. Unfortunately, this can happen to the later builds, but the fix will be out of your own pocket.
#1346
mcw, what year is your car? There's a known problem with the power steering pump continously running after the car is shut off on first gen cars which could be the problem you're having. It leads to batteries dying if you're lucky, to cars catching on fire if you're not. If your car was built in Feb 2005 or earlier, it should qualify for the power steering pump recall. Unfortunately, this can happen to the later builds, but the fix will be out of your own pocket.
#1347
#1348
My wife uses the AC all the time.
#1349
#1350