Just bought used Mini Cooper S (R53) - Not Very hAPPY
#1
Just bought used Mini Cooper S (R53) - Not Very hAPPY
Hi to all and happy to join in the community. I just bought my 1st mini, not brand new but used with 20000kms plus (2006). Apparently my 1st mistake was that i rushed the buying process that i failed to do the usual routine pre-check list. I didnt know about this website only after having purchased the cooper s.
The problem lies with driving the cooper. The engine is excellent but the ride is questionable. Theres this dreaded knocking or rattling sound which comes from both left and right front chassis. I can feel the knocking sound from the steering wheel itself and also the fact that the steering wheel has some sort of play. Could this be the following:-
- Steering rack?
- steering column?
- front wheel bearings?
- worn out front bushes?
- worn out ball joints or tie rods?
- bad cv joints? do i need to replace both left and right axle? etc
- any other ideas?
Apart from that, its also making this strange sound when cruising (70mph), i cant described it by text but i know its not the supercharger. The supercharger sounds great though
Any ideas or experience from the above?
The problem lies with driving the cooper. The engine is excellent but the ride is questionable. Theres this dreaded knocking or rattling sound which comes from both left and right front chassis. I can feel the knocking sound from the steering wheel itself and also the fact that the steering wheel has some sort of play. Could this be the following:-
- Steering rack?
- steering column?
- front wheel bearings?
- worn out front bushes?
- worn out ball joints or tie rods?
- bad cv joints? do i need to replace both left and right axle? etc
- any other ideas?
Apart from that, its also making this strange sound when cruising (70mph), i cant described it by text but i know its not the supercharger. The supercharger sounds great though
Any ideas or experience from the above?
#2
Could be any of the above, but bad bearings usually sound worse when turning. Sounds like the car should be thoroughly inspected by a mechanic, preferably one who is familiar with MINI's. Or maybe the H3 has visited a curse upon your new addition. Hope things get sorted out soon and for not much $$. Once that happens, you'll love driving it! Welcome aboard.
#5
My Mini now is at the stealership as i couldnt get the stick to shift to reverse gear. I dont know what really happened but i do know that the dealership had replaced a brand new o.e clutch kit last week. Now i cant put the stick in Reverse, 1st and 2nd. Only 4th, 5th and 6th gears are functioning. Talk about a very bad week
#7
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#8
Are you getting any shaking/vibrations in the steering wheel when at higher speeds. Also does the car seem to track the road a lot. I say a lot because it's going to track a little bit but if it's riding like it's stuck on rails you may want to have the bushings checked. I just had mine redone about a month back along with some other work and it took away the major tracking issues along with the bad vibration at higher speeds.
Is the sound like marbles rolling in a tin coffee can?
Is the sound like marbles rolling in a tin coffee can?
#9
Are you getting any shaking/vibrations in the steering wheel when at higher speeds. Also does the car seem to track the road a lot. I say a lot because it's going to track a little bit but if it's riding like it's stuck on rails you may want to have the bushings checked. I just had mine redone about a month back along with some other work and it took away the major tracking issues along with the bad vibration at higher speeds.
Is the sound like marbles rolling in a tin coffee can?
Is the sound like marbles rolling in a tin coffee can?
#10
the most common front suspension failure item seems to be the lower control arm bushing which have been know to go out as early as 30,000 miles. Unfortunately they are a bit of a PIA to replace but on the good side a POLY replacement is available and once you put those in you should expect LONG life.
As stated I find wheel bearing problems to be more appearent in wheel speed and especailly turning, while the control arm more noticable when the suspension "works" .... does that make sense?
Do the easy check for a wheel bearing problem.
1. Jack up the wheel
2. Grap at 3 and 9 o'clock
3. Try to rock the wheel back and forth like you were pulling it off the lugs/studs.
If you get any movement the bearings are questionable. Much movement and they are shot. I prefer to do this test with the wheel off and rock the rotor .... you'll really see movement if there's a problem.
If so
Bad News is you can't replace just the bearings (easily)
Good News is the sealed hubs swap out fairly easily . . .
As stated I find wheel bearing problems to be more appearent in wheel speed and especailly turning, while the control arm more noticable when the suspension "works" .... does that make sense?
Do the easy check for a wheel bearing problem.
1. Jack up the wheel
2. Grap at 3 and 9 o'clock
3. Try to rock the wheel back and forth like you were pulling it off the lugs/studs.
If you get any movement the bearings are questionable. Much movement and they are shot. I prefer to do this test with the wheel off and rock the rotor .... you'll really see movement if there's a problem.
If so
Bad News is you can't replace just the bearings (easily)
Good News is the sealed hubs swap out fairly easily . . .
#11
the most common front suspension failure item seems to be the lower control arm bushing which have been know to go out as early as 30,000 miles. Unfortunately they are a bit of a PIA to replace but on the good side a POLY replacement is available and once you put those in you should expect LONG life.
As stated I find wheel bearing problems to be more appearent in wheel speed and especailly turning, while the control arm more noticable when the suspension "works" .... does that make sense?
Do the easy check for a wheel bearing problem.
1. Jack up the wheel
2. Grap at 3 and 9 o'clock
3. Try to rock the wheel back and forth like you were pulling it off the lugs/studs.
If you get any movement the bearings are questionable. Much movement and they are shot. I prefer to do this test with the wheel off and rock the rotor .... you'll really see movement if there's a problem.
If so
Bad News is you can't replace just the bearings (easily)
Good News is the sealed hubs swap out fairly easily . . .
As stated I find wheel bearing problems to be more appearent in wheel speed and especailly turning, while the control arm more noticable when the suspension "works" .... does that make sense?
Do the easy check for a wheel bearing problem.
1. Jack up the wheel
2. Grap at 3 and 9 o'clock
3. Try to rock the wheel back and forth like you were pulling it off the lugs/studs.
If you get any movement the bearings are questionable. Much movement and they are shot. I prefer to do this test with the wheel off and rock the rotor .... you'll really see movement if there's a problem.
If so
Bad News is you can't replace just the bearings (easily)
Good News is the sealed hubs swap out fairly easily . . .
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