How does my harmonic balancer look? *PICS*
#1
How does my harmonic balancer look? *PICS*
I've been getting the playing card in bicycle spokes noise for the past few weeks and finally pulled the liner to look at my damper. To my knowledge this is the original 2002 damper with 78000 miles on it. It has this what looks like a crack pretty much around the entire pulley, but I can't really tell if it's just the seam between the metal and rubber or if it's a crack causing the noise.
I also noticed that when the car is running, the damper doesn't look completely straight. Comparing it to the other pulleys in the system, it kind of wobbles very, very slightly. It looks as if it was a photo that's not completely in focus, the edges kind of blur, I would say less than 1/16". Probably more like 1/32".
Any insight would be helpful. Thanks.
I also noticed that when the car is running, the damper doesn't look completely straight. Comparing it to the other pulleys in the system, it kind of wobbles very, very slightly. It looks as if it was a photo that's not completely in focus, the edges kind of blur, I would say less than 1/16". Probably more like 1/32".
Any insight would be helpful. Thanks.
#3
I'm definitely going to do it myself, seems like an easy swap. I'm going to follow this tutorial:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...oem-tools.html
I'm just curious as to whether the current damper looks ok or if it needs changing. I just want to be positive that it's making the noise.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...oem-tools.html
I'm just curious as to whether the current damper looks ok or if it needs changing. I just want to be positive that it's making the noise.
#5
Such a quandary. The visible wobble when rotating would bother me. Sad part is you won't really know if it's going bad until it explodes and damages everything else nearby. I went the lightweight Alta 2% route 45,000 miles ago but wouldn't necessarily recommend that. There are a couple nice (and spendy) dampener crank pulleys out there or go to the later model OEM. Don't put the '02 version back on. There are some threads on the subject here and there.
#6
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iTrader: (10)
If your going to replace it definetly get the new ATI damper, they are lighter and much more reliable. I've installed a bunch no problems.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/super-d...ulley-r53.html
http://www.waymotorworks.com/super-d...ulley-r53.html
#7
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Just ordered an ATI from WMW. While the current damper doesn't look excessively worn, the vibration really worries me, I feel it is putting unnecessary stress on my bearings. I also ordered a redesigned belt tensioner tool on ebay for $65. Just need to rent a crowsfoot puller from Autozone now.
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#16
I actually have a Bentley manual to work with. This project doesn't seem like it will be that difficult. Like I said in a previous post, I'm going to follow those instructions posted on how to replace it without the OEM tools.
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I will keep you all updated with my results!
#21
I hear ya on good employees are hard to find. We just had to fire an employee yesterday for stealing cash out of the register. I guess hard times bring out the thief in a person .
#22
Well I received the ATI Damper today, a very nice product indeed. Went to Autozone and used their loan-a-tool program to rent a puller for free. Then I went to Home Depot, purchased 3 M6 bolts and washers (I hope they are long enough!)
I also picked up a Husky 3/8" torque wrench (chose Husky for the lifetime warranty and convenience of Home Depot). It does 20-100 ft/lbs. I could have purchased the 1/2" 20-250 ft/lbs wrench for $4 more, but it was excessively long and I feel I would get hung up a lot. Up to 100lbs should cover most everything on the car except the axle nuts.
Here are a few pictures of the pre-install. Expect the install in the next few days.
In this picture you can see:
tensioner tool
torque wrench
ati pulley w/supplied M12 allen bolt and washer
M6 bolts and washers
harmonic damper puller kit
blue threadlock
10mm allen socket I had left over from my old 7M-GTE headbolts which will help the installation immensely
short of a standard toolkit, this should be everything I need for the project.
I also picked up a Husky 3/8" torque wrench (chose Husky for the lifetime warranty and convenience of Home Depot). It does 20-100 ft/lbs. I could have purchased the 1/2" 20-250 ft/lbs wrench for $4 more, but it was excessively long and I feel I would get hung up a lot. Up to 100lbs should cover most everything on the car except the axle nuts.
Here are a few pictures of the pre-install. Expect the install in the next few days.
In this picture you can see:
tensioner tool
torque wrench
ati pulley w/supplied M12 allen bolt and washer
M6 bolts and washers
harmonic damper puller kit
blue threadlock
10mm allen socket I had left over from my old 7M-GTE headbolts which will help the installation immensely
short of a standard toolkit, this should be everything I need for the project.
#25
Did the install today and it went surprisingly smooth except for one problem, not having an impact gun! I ended up running out to HD and picked up up a Dewalt, which I will probably return and buy something cheaper online .
Onto the pics!
Fender liner out:
When I took off my belt I found this! This belt is under 5000 mi old. What could be the cause?
My Savior!
The removal is very, very easy with this tool. There's absolutely no reason to purchase the OEM tool IMO. I used the supplied allen head bolt that came with the ATI damper to press against which worked perfectly.
OFF!
Using the supplied allen bolt and washer to press the pulley on. I didn't need to heat it up at all.
The allen bolt only pushes up to a certain point, they you use the oem bolt to finish it. Once the bolt no longer turns, back it out and check to make sure the pulley is flush with the crank by looking through the center hole. If all is well, put blue loctite on and tq down to 85!
My only concern is when I was torquing the bolt. Even with the brakes pressed firmly and car in a high gear, the crank still had a bit of twisting play in it. I would say the crank turns about an 1/8th or so while I was applying pressure. Once pressure was relieved, it twisted back (I'm guessing this is play in the dual mass flywheel springs).
Do you all think this twisting will effect the torque value drastically? I cant see any way around this short of the oem BMW tool 525-135.
All in all, this was an easy project. Well worth the effort. I drove past some guard rails and there's no more fluttering so it seems to have fixed the problem.
Onto the pics!
Fender liner out:
When I took off my belt I found this! This belt is under 5000 mi old. What could be the cause?
My Savior!
The removal is very, very easy with this tool. There's absolutely no reason to purchase the OEM tool IMO. I used the supplied allen head bolt that came with the ATI damper to press against which worked perfectly.
OFF!
Using the supplied allen bolt and washer to press the pulley on. I didn't need to heat it up at all.
The allen bolt only pushes up to a certain point, they you use the oem bolt to finish it. Once the bolt no longer turns, back it out and check to make sure the pulley is flush with the crank by looking through the center hole. If all is well, put blue loctite on and tq down to 85!
My only concern is when I was torquing the bolt. Even with the brakes pressed firmly and car in a high gear, the crank still had a bit of twisting play in it. I would say the crank turns about an 1/8th or so while I was applying pressure. Once pressure was relieved, it twisted back (I'm guessing this is play in the dual mass flywheel springs).
Do you all think this twisting will effect the torque value drastically? I cant see any way around this short of the oem BMW tool 525-135.
All in all, this was an easy project. Well worth the effort. I drove past some guard rails and there's no more fluttering so it seems to have fixed the problem.