Hello I am new to r53 where I just bought a used r53 with 30,000km mileage. The problem is I found it very difficult to start. Brought it to a workshop and the mechanic scanned it and found out that my car has these problems: P0420 Catalytic Converter (Efficiency Below Threshold Bank1), P1627 (Alternator Load Sensor Input High), P0201 (Fuel Injector, Cylinder 1 Malfunction) What should I do? Should I replaced all the said parts? Thanks.

 

I would clear the codes, maybe change the fuel filter and Spark plugs, put in good quality gas and fuel injection cleaner, and drive it for a few tanks, and see if that helps, before you go for any big buck changes

 

Just Found this on Edmunds. They list the Tech Specs for
2005 Mini Cooper S
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/r...b&serviceType=
2005 MINI Cooper 2dr Hatchback (1.6L 4cyl 5M)
2005 http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/r...0414742&zip=#8

The first tech spec. states this:
Component Description:
1. ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:EXHAUST SYSTEM:EMISSION CONTROL:CATALYTIC CONVERTOR Bulletin Number: SI-M-18-01-0 Bulletin Date: Apr 2009 Vehicle: 2,005 MINI Cooper Summary:
MINI: DUE TO A FAILURE IN THE PRODUCTION PROCESS,THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER MAY DETERIORATE CAUSING AN INCREASED LEVEL OF VEHICLE EMISSIONS. THE CATALYST EFFICIENCY FAULT CODE (276A) WILL BE STORED IN THE DME MEMORY, AND THE SERVICE ENGINE S ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10030668 )

I'd go talk to the dealer to see what they could do since it is listed in a tech spec. If that doesn't work call 1-800 - ask-mini and ask for help with the problem. Since it is a known problem in some cars possibly they will offer assistance. Good Luck.

 

Thanks NightFlyr and Ricecheck for the info... will try to change the fuel filter and also the spark plug. Actually i want to replace it with the ALTA MSD package which include spark plug. Btw if I want to cut out my catalytic converter and change my stock exhaust to using straight pipe and one ball system will it hurts more to my ride? (if the catalytic is still the problem). Thanks...

 

I do not see the year of your car noted, but 30K is under the 50K warranty, I would have the dealer check it out if you are under the 5 year purchase date time frame.

 

The year it is manufactured (from my own researched) was in 2004 but the model is 2006 (correct me if i'm wrong). unfortunately there is no authorized agency here in my country which is looking after Mini and I bought it from a used car agency which imported it from the neighboring country.

 

Went to a different workshops today. First workshop scanned it and only found the alternator not working properly. Catalytic and Fuel injector were not shown. Brought it to the other workshop and they told me that the alternantor is doing fine but they are in doubt of my battery which they asked me to buy a new one. Is it true that if my battery is low it can affect my alternator? (load sensor input high). thanks

 

What's your VIN number? Or the numbers after the "TD" in the VIN? I can tell you what month/year your car was manufactured.

Cars aren't made in 2004 and then stored and sold as 2006s. That's a 1-2 year gap lol.

 

TC86183 ive researched it and foun like 2004/03

 

Yeah, March 2004. It's a 2004 model then. Why would you think it's a 2006? Downside is you're out of warranty.

 

Because the seller told me it is a 2006 model so what can be the cause of the problem? the mechanic checked the alternator and the voltage showed a healthy alternator (according to the mechanic) and yet i find it hard to start and sometimes may take up to 10 seconds to start it. Can it be because of the battery?

 

Your seller may have stated the car was a 2006 model just to get rid of it. Just because the cars look pretty much the same does not mean they ARe the same. That's why the VIN # is so important. There are unscrupulous people in every country.

Regarding the battery, I'd say it's time for a new one. While we would like for them to last forever, you just have no idea what kind of misuse your car's present battery has endured before you bought the car...and, if it is, in fact, an OEM battery, its life is about over [six years is a long time].

 

P0420 could also be the rear oxygen sensor. Clean that and see if the code goes away or replace it.

The Cat is costlier so should be the last to replace.

you can have the battery checked at autozone or other parts places for free.

 

What I would like to know is did you not know the problem is there when you bought the car? I hope you bought the car for a low price, considering you bought a 2006 model when it's actually a 2004, and these problems. Who knows what other underlying problems are there that haven't surfaced yet?

 

I did not bring it to any workshop when i test drive it since mini specialist workshop is very limited here in Brunei (until today). I think maybe its true the battery is the actual problem since yesterday i brought it to the workshop and the mechanic tried to check the alternator and the battery twice. the first one was without having a/cond, lights and radio switched on and compare it when it was switched on. the first showed voltage of more than 13 and no warning on the scanner and the second one showed a voltage of around 12+ and showed warning on the scanner. But the battery still showed a healthy condition.

 

Sounds like you bought a bit of a problem....they lied to you about the year, it barely starts, has numerous issues...and you live in an area that does not appear to have dealers, an easily purchased parts, or a good repair facility.
IMO, run back to were you got the car, and demand you money back...maybe they will do it...the lied to you about tha cars age, condition, etc.
If that fails, try to get the deal adjusted, a price reduction....
Next, buy a repair manual...you will need it...the local folks don't seem to have the knowhow or knowledge to fix a mini....the places you brought the car to seem, er, in a word ameaturish?
You seem to have several issues...the "malfunction on cylindar 1" is most likely a misfire, and you have a fuel injector issue too....same cylinder? Either of these items can cause it to be difficult to start...next you say it takes 10 seconds to start...is it a slow crank? Or does it rumble...and stall. If it cranks slow, does it crank faster when connected to a battery booster/charger? If yes, the battery is likely old, and weak. The eye on the battery does not indicate it is a good battery...only that is is charged enough to be tested. Testing a battery is simple... But it appears that the local shops don't know how to do this simple task...every car has a battery if it has electric start....if they can't do this task...the likely hood of getting the otherstuff sorted or fixed is nill or 0.
It is likely that the catylatic converter is dead from the use of leaded fuel IMO....to have so few miles....and a failure of it....but try wiping the sensor off carefuly, no solvents, then reinstall....simply cutting it off will result in a permenant check engine light....resulting in you not knowing if other faultcodes appear once the other stuff gets fixed.
It is likely that you will need to get a manual like I stated, and do it yourself, or perhaps hire a private mechanic to fix stuff, importing numerous parts...new high-tech cars cannot be kept alive by skill, and will alone....they need parts and computers...the tolerances are too tight to fashion parts from other cars.....good luck...but it sounds like that since you bought a car without a test drive...or even a test ride....and no inspection, you have a lot of work ahead of you!! This includes importing parts, paid for in forgien currency....good luck. I love my mini dearly, but unless you are a person of means....you are likely in over your head, screwed, and out of luck!!
Good luck....sorry to state something so bluntly, but the car has numerous issues...some may require parts, expertise, good help to fix....it sounds like you lack acess yo all of them.
Many people here would be happy to help you, but right now you are running around in circles, and not having the car infront of us, our advise is going to be barely better than the guys in the shops are giving you, since you don't appear to have much knowledge about cars....if we get conflicting info from you...we give conflicting advise, getting nowhere...like we say, garbage in, garbage out in the computer world.

 

Thanks ZippyNH. I know because of lack of expertise here and me myself did not checked first is to blame for this problems. however its hard for me to be parted from my ride now and im getting in love with her more and more everyday

 

I understand where you're coming from. However, if the car starts to become a burden because of problems that start to surface, I think you should reconsider since the car will become more of a headache than a pride to own the car.

 

The love the mini inspires is strong, but sometimes it is better for it to be a forbidden fruit....like an married lady....perhaps more desired because of the tabau/forbidden nature.
To be frank, the motor on the car has multiple issues...and may have been exported because it was cheap, perhaps even considered to be junk/lemon in it's home country...
A few issues might be related....the fuel injector problem+"cylindar malfunction"+hard start are all very likely the result of the same problem. It appears when the codes were read to you the first time, they were likely cleared...and that is why the next people wo read it did not find the same codes. Some codes take a bit of time to be set... So if the problems remain after the reset...codes should reappear shortly..
I would reccomend getting a compression check first...determine if the motor is in good enough shape to warrent fixing...if compression is very low on one or more cylindars...then you must dig deeper...perhaps a failed piston or valve issue...both possible reasons for hard start/codes about "cylindar malfunction" which I am assuming means misfire as something was likely lost in translation. If the compression is ok...the next step is likely to be testing/cleaning/replacing one or more fuel injectors....they may be clogged from bad fuel/lack of detergants, or possiblely totaly failed.
Now you should have 2 or more of the problems fixed...you now have 2 of the 3 things needed for the motor to run/start better....fuel, and compression...with such low miles, I would hope the electrical componets are in servicable shape.
You said it is hard to start....but when running/driving, how does it run?
IMO, I would ignore the catalytic converter warning for now... It will not directly effect the use of the car as long as it is intact, and not physically broken....the warning is largely for places with very strong envormental laws...
As for fuel...buy the best octane you can get...ratings vary by place to place, but hi-test...like used in other hi performance sport type cars is needed...and if it is a brand name with detergents...perhaps if you are not sure, add some fuel system cleaner every few tanks....
As far as the battery....if it has a dead cell in it...it can cause problems...always having to crank for 10 seconds is hard on a battery...but if it cranks pretty fast, and can hold a charge and start the car after a few days, it is likely fine. If the red alternator light is lit when driving...the alternator is most likely bad....but if the battery is charging adquately from driving, and there is no red light... It should be ok for now....remember, the codes just are there just to get you looking for problems in a general area... You just don't swap parts because they throw a code...the computer is just saying that the info it has says item a is reporting a value that is out of specfications...the part itself may have failed, or something upstream my have....

 

Thanks ZippyNH, i am still looking for the problems. I am currently investing in the Redline Complete Fuel Sytem cleaner. Will bring my mini to the alternator expertise soon. The driving is smooth and the total fuel consumption is like 41.509434 litres per 400 KM = 10.38l/100km. That is for an average speed of 120km/h and in a mix driving road condition (highway, city and primary access). The fuel we are using here is Shell RON 92, RON 95 AND RON 97.

 

In the US we use a different octane rating system, the (R+M)/2.
this makes the US # 4-5 points for the same fuel. So it sounds like you should be using the 97....the 95 might be OK too.....check the Mini manual...online or over at the euro mini sites to see if it meets the right spec!
I'm not not sure how to do the conversion to US miles per US gallon (actually I do, but it is a pain ), but good to hear it is driving pretty good.
From your earlier posts I was afraid that it was a mess...but if it is running nice...Congrats!!
Is the alternator giving you issues? I know you got a warning...but is the battery charging OK? No red Light? The charging system is pretty "normal" from what I know about it....the Denso alternator on the S is considered to be a good brand....better than most actually!
Good Luck!!

 

Yup I use RON97 and most of our cars are using this standard. Its running smooth. I forgot to tell that my car details. It is pre installed with BMC CDA air filter, cusco front strut bar, and just now i just found out that it also has UNICHIP DASTEK with a code. The battery which is given and am still using is FUJIKI DIN55MF-55530 with reserve capacity 80 minutes and ampere hours is 55.

 

i forgot to add.. the battery is in green mode and the dastek unichip is [IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/User/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-3.png[/IMG]like which can be found at dastek.co.za dastek piggyback computer[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/User/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/User/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/User/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]

 

Previously my ride was diagnosed with P0420 Catalytic Converter (Efficiency Below Threshold Bank1), P1627 (Alternator Load Sensor Input High), P0201 (Fuel Injector, Cylinder 1 Malfunction). The previous mods are; Custom made header and Cat. Converter, Unichip B and BMC CDA.

I have installed the 380cc JCW Injectors, custom made De-cat pipe, MSD Coilpack with spark plug wire and Brisk Silver Spark Plug, Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve, 15% S/c Pulley with belt, ALTA OCC, GP Intercooler and removed the Unichip Version B. Other than that are Polyurethane Control Arm Bushing, WMW Top engine Mounting, New Coolant Tank, New Engine Gasket etc.

The problem is even after I did some mods, the warning codes; P0420 Catalytic Converter (Efficiency Below Threshold Bank1), P1627 (Alternator Load Sensor Input High), P0201 (Fuel Injector, Cylinder 1 Malfunction) are still exist.

And I Purchased a Scangauge2 and is not functioning at all but function very well when I used it on other vehicles. I am planning to purchase either Unichip Q or Bytetronik to tune my vehicles but I am afraid it is not functioning well (same like my scangauge2). and future mod will be Milltek Catback.

Thanks

 

Since you have removed the precat...the fact the other cat is not working well is not a surprise..the cat may be dead or the o2 sensor could be bad.....unless it is required (by local laws)you could remove it and install an o2 simulator ....
what country was the car speced for....this may affect the use of an reader/ programmer....not sure...