No more electricty in my Mini....
#1
No more electricty in my Mini....
Yesterday I tried to remove my stock pulley to put a 15% reduction pulley.
When I was trying to move my fuse box I unbolt the upper left red cable in the boxe and it started to do sparkles. I didn't care about it and continued to do my stuff...
When the time was to start my engine, nothing hapened.
No light, no door, no trunk, no sound when trying to start, nothing !
As recommended by a friend, I tested each fuse with a multimeter and everything was fine...
anyone have an idea what it could be ?
When I was trying to move my fuse box I unbolt the upper left red cable in the boxe and it started to do sparkles. I didn't care about it and continued to do my stuff...
When the time was to start my engine, nothing hapened.
No light, no door, no trunk, no sound when trying to start, nothing !
As recommended by a friend, I tested each fuse with a multimeter and everything was fine...
anyone have an idea what it could be ?
#2
Sounds like you killed the battery...the cable arc-ed from touching a ground...sparked, and since you did nothing to stop it, killed the battery, or did some other dammage.
Charge the battery.... And if you did not break anything, it should start your car...but some batterys do not survive beaing deeply discharged. Hopefully the only dammage is the dead battery.
The good news is that the 15% reduction is one of the best mods you can do, and it transforms the car...it will make you smile soooo much when you get it runnng again...you will wonder why you did not do it sooner!!
Charge the battery.... And if you did not break anything, it should start your car...but some batterys do not survive beaing deeply discharged. Hopefully the only dammage is the dead battery.
The good news is that the 15% reduction is one of the best mods you can do, and it transforms the car...it will make you smile soooo much when you get it runnng again...you will wonder why you did not do it sooner!!
#4
A battery can still show 12v with a shorted cell. You most likely fried the battery. Your local auto parts store should be able to test the battery for you. Just testing the fuses doesnt mean that there isnt damage to the electrical system. You may have even fried a diode in the alternator.
For future reference, ALWAYS disconnect the negative terminal of the battery when doing work on the car in the engine compartment.
For future reference, ALWAYS disconnect the negative terminal of the battery when doing work on the car in the engine compartment.
#5
The battery may be toast... But if it shows voltage, it should at least light the dome light, etc...a 12v battery in a fully charged condition should be closer to 13+ volts...sounds like you may have fried something else...have you found a fuseable link...it is like a big fuse, it's job is to protect the battery if a huge load, bigger than could ever be applied in a normal way is applied to it...not sure where it is in the mini...but you likely blew it...hopefully that is it...the alternative is that you may have fried the bodycontrol unit, computer, etc...not likely...but the body is the ground...and you applied a TON of power to the ground by allowing that cable to arc...repeatedly, and for a long time....check realoem.com, look up the electrial system...and make sure you tested all the main fuses/fuseable links...some of the bigger fuses are pretty well hidden...a repair manual would help too....I'm on a I-thinggy, so it's tuff for me to search for diagrams and schemitics. Good luck!!
#7
Trending Topics
#9
If you can get your car to jump start (and yes, you can use the red plug under the hood for this ) via jumper cables, then it's just likely just your battery.
I reversed polarity starting a car once by accident, it blew some 80amp fuse.
If you get no click, no lights, no nothing from the system, not even a buzz while you're jumped, and the main fuses are good, uh... check for burnt wires.
#12
I tried the big fuse next to the battery....nothing is wrong there.
I checked my battery again and I got 6 volts...maybe this is the problem ?
But I should be able to unlock my door or something with those 6 volts don't I ? Everything still dead...
Anyway, one of my friend is coming to boost me and see if it works...if not, I'll bring it at the doctor.....on a towing.....
I checked my battery again and I got 6 volts...maybe this is the problem ?
But I should be able to unlock my door or something with those 6 volts don't I ? Everything still dead...
Anyway, one of my friend is coming to boost me and see if it works...if not, I'll bring it at the doctor.....on a towing.....
#13
I had this problem too.
Go to your car, open the driver door and leave it open, put in the key and turn it 2 positions. Nothing will happen. Now wait..... after about 2 to 4 minutes the electricity will come on. Only once I had to do the procedure twice for it to work. Just be patient.
I don't know why this works but its happened to me 4 times over the years.
Go to your car, open the driver door and leave it open, put in the key and turn it 2 positions. Nothing will happen. Now wait..... after about 2 to 4 minutes the electricity will come on. Only once I had to do the procedure twice for it to work. Just be patient.
I don't know why this works but its happened to me 4 times over the years.
#14
I tried the big fuse next to the battery....nothing is wrong there.
I checked my battery again and I got 6 volts...maybe this is the problem ?
But I should be able to unlock my door or something with those 6 volts don't I ? Everything still dead...
Anyway, one of my friend is coming to boost me and see if it works...if not, I'll bring it at the doctor.....on a towing.....
I checked my battery again and I got 6 volts...maybe this is the problem ?
But I should be able to unlock my door or something with those 6 volts don't I ? Everything still dead...
Anyway, one of my friend is coming to boost me and see if it works...if not, I'll bring it at the doctor.....on a towing.....
Once you get below maybe 10 volts...you would be lucky to get more than a light on the ceiling...remember, many of the cars systems are run by the computer...the body control module, the BCM...if the volts are too low, nothing....when you try to jump the car, leave the cables connected to the car for a bit before you try to jump the car.
One simple test...attatch the cables to the battery in the trunk (not the way to correctly jump a mini), when you do this...you should be able to turn the lights on, etc....if you still don't have power....something must be blown.
If the car does start when jumped, it will need to be driven a long time to get the battery charged enough to restart the car...if it recovers.
If you have access to a battery charger, I would remove the battery, and charge it overnight on it's lowest setting...if it will accept a battery at 6 volts.....some chargers will not accept a battery this deeply discharged.
The orange box contains a "squib", an explosive charge that disconnects the battery from one of 2 seperate positive cables that run under the car. It disconects the unfused cable that goes to the starter motor in the event that the airbags are deployed (it is very difficult to fuse protect a dc motor, but the protection is needed in a car, cause in an accident, the cable could become compermised since it is so long, causing arcing).the second cable stays live...allowing the BCM to turn on the lights and horn, allowing the car to be found more easilly. This circuirt should be protected by a large fuse (fusable link).
Sorry to weigh you down with so much info, but understaning the way it is wired is important to understand whare the fault could be!!
Good luck again, and like I said, you will love the pulley!!
#15
#17
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
orangecrush
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
17
02-14-2012 09:15 AM