I've had my 09 for 66k miles already, and have had very few issues.

My original clutch is still kicking just fine, and I haven't really heard of many clutch issues from others on here. And the high-pressure fuel pump is a known issue, and one that MINI expanded the warranty for out to 100k miles (forget the years) — I imagine MINI has resolved this for cars with the N18 engine, though I don't know for certain of the top of my head. The only real issue here is carbon buildup, which is common to pretty much all direct-injection cars out there (including the 1-series), can be mitigated with a relatively inexpensive catch can, now has specific diagnosis and cleaning procedures made known to dealership service bays (SI M12 02 10), and has not yet been shown to be an issue with N18 engines.

One other thing I think you were alluding to was the cold start rattle issue. This was admittedly a long-standing (and high-profile) issue, and MINI had tried a few things to identify root cause and remedy over a few years time. But I believe this has been sorted now with the most recent fix; cold start rattle complaints have sure dropped off within the last year.

I don't accept BS excuses with my car — it cost a hell of a lot of money! — and haven't done nearly $3k in warranty work in double the mileage you set as your marker. The only "financial suicide" the car has been for me is in the mods I've added to it. And I fully expect to buy another MINI when this one gives up the ghost (though, I admit this is just because an M1 is outside my price range )

Yes, my experiences are a sample of one, and not statistically significant... but neither is your 'sample of one' personal experience, nor a self-selecting group of forum posters with complaints (people with car problems tend to make more noise than those without).

Sure, tell people of your experiences and your impressions with your car; but generalizing to the entire body of MCSs (and other MCS owners) out there is a bit much.

 

Mine doesn't.
MINI does say to check the oil level when you fill your tank... which is pretty standard. And the N14 does use some oil (the manual even says this), but on my car I have to add (at most) 1/2 a quart between 7k mile oil changes.

 

BMW135i=$39,050 and completely stripped down. A MINI that costs 39K would be a damn sweat *** ride.........

 

He's getting a Countryman S with unknown options so he's close. As far as stripped down.. not really. Go see a "stripped down" 135i, it has standard features and cheap options, you can get them for $38k with some options.

 

No new car should require checking oil every fill up or month, and if so they should give you the oil between intervals for topping off if it's required. Not until the car hits 100k should you do that. .

I don't want to get in a pissing match, but on the subject of MINIs, reliability and the price you pay; $27k+ average is unacceptable my friend.

That is all I'm saying.

 

b&WCM,

fishbert is in denial OR a very very lucky motorer. You could go to 3 forums and find literally thousands of posts with the COMMON issues I named and when these issues are addressed, it's more like a band-aid just long enough until you're out of warranty.

Cold start rattle is wastegate(normal sounds and operation). Death rattle is timing chain/tensioner(hear during cold starts too but stay after warm up), those are 2 different sounds.

The death rattle has not been cured, the hpfp has not been cured, the premature clutch wear has not been cured, carbon as well. 07-11 has these issues, the 2012 is new territory and so is the all4 system. If we haven't learned our lesson already, first year MINIs are no nos, I consider the 2012 Countryman S just that.

Good luck to whatever you choose but I would do a lease option.

 

Gosh, I've always checked my oil every time I fill up with gas! What does everyone else do, stare at the gas pump? I added one quart of oil in the first year I owned mine, 6500 miles.

Dave

 

BMWUSA has them listed for 39k, no options. For the same amount you can get a fully loaded MCS plus an extended warranty or a Fully loaded JCW. I would take the JCW with leather, JCW kit and lots of other options over a car without anything......

 

Is fishbert in denial or are you just bitter about your car? You want something lame and reliable, go on over and get a Honda or a Toyota. Want something fun, get a MINI. Many people like their MINI's and really don't like listening to people like you bashing our brand......

 

TBH at 35-40k I'd be sitting in a used Porsche 996.

 

LOL, and you want to rag on MINI's reliability? Good luck with that 35-40k used Porsche......

 

I guess I struck a nerve there, that wasn't my intentions, but what you said has nothing to do with what the member was asking about, and FWIW our "brand" needs to get their act together. He wanted an honest answer of possible issues. So chill out.

FYI, I love my "Delilah" more than you think, but I'm about to go the Justa route until the S issues are fixed. Tired of being the guinea pig.

 

Right on the money! Make sure your service Dept. knows how to work on cars in the first place! Mini is a great car with a few bumps in the road but the service dept. blows walnut shells! Search in your area for top rated mini service dept. and take it there. It will be worth your time and your wallet!

 

Oh if any problem or doubt look on youtube about N14 carbon cleaning and oil problems. Change your oil every 5K if you have any left

 

Point to SIM120210 if they aren't clear? The dealer is quite a ways away from where I am. What is SIM120210 and how different is it than a regular walnut shell blasting? I would like to go to a local shop.

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...CJnT9MMP#gid=0
SIM120210 is the older method, not as effective, BG(blue fluid) cleaner that they pressurize into your intake tract system. It is better overall suited for the Gen 1 cars and Gen 2 non-S port injected cars. BMW originally used the same procedure for Gen 2 S variants until late 2010, then they started rolling out walnut shell solution. Some dealers still perform the SIM120210 after walnut shell for free(some don't) to clean up the intake port castings and combustion chamber.

My brother-in-law who is a BMW Master Tech for over a decade(NJ, FL, TX and now PA) said "the BG treatment aka SIM120210 is good for new cars or for prevented care AFTER walnut shell has been completed on early Gen2s. At $150-200 for each BG treatment and $600 for walnut shell job, in the beginning you are safer to do SIM120210 4 times(~13kmi) during NCW(in hopes of being covered) and then after warranty is up buy an OCC. At that point you shouldn't ever need walnut shell done and your warranty will never be in question." Than goes on to say "if you did use something like an OCC, you'd want to still do the BG every 20-25kmi to clean up the intake ports and CC, as there will still be build up of carbon, but not the moist caked up kind.

What I would do is buy an OCC and make sure you can return it back to factory every time it's in, which is possible thanks to BSH. It's only a 30 minute or less procedure. In light of OP thread title, Seafoam would work but only if you're not past the point of no return in the carbon process, which if you are reading this thread you may be.

 

Please point to a single, credible, documented instance of an N18 engine experiencing the "death rattle." I've been watching carefully for over a year and have seen none.

OBTW, over 10K miles and zero issues -- in case we're counting.

 

I understand your frustration. You may not have the issues, many of the late 11' might not have issues but for cars before yes, and that is our concern. Re-read what you just quoted from me please..

Motorers are still under warranty and having issues I said N18 owners could have issues but basically too early to tell. I explained it has normal operation start-up wastegate rattle NOT death rattle. But also it's not set in stone if it's cured, so sorry at 1 year or 10k is hardly proven, yes so far it's better than before but time will tell.

Example and again; I have 80k on the factory HPFP on my 07' S, BUT I really do see a lot of pumps failing, I have what will be 5 chain/tensioner jobs done, so unlike you and others I'm not going to sit here, and say it doesn't exist when it does. I could careless by saying my car has issues that it devalues my car, which is why some owner get upset with posts like this, I am just being honest for a potential new owner.

 

Frustration? None here at all. And as suggested I re-read what you said. You specifically said "2007-2011 are ticking time bombs..." and I believe you don't have and can't produce sufficient evidence to make that wild claim for the 2011 model year with the N18 power plant (which you seem to have backed off on in your latest reply). Yes, there have been a few leftover bad HPFPs and clutch plates in 2011 but certainly not at a prevalence warranting the "financial suicide" moniker.

I'm closer to agreement with you on the N14 engines. I would not recommend the purchase of a used '07 - '08 MCS to a friend, and for the '09-'10 I would make sure the latest and greatest timing chain and tensioner fix was done; an OCC + boost tap installed; and intake port inspected and cleaned. A good inspection and good maintenance records would mitigate a lot of uncertainty. Thanks goodness for online references and the shared experiences of others to teach us all how to anticipate and hopefully prevent bad things from occurring.

Oh, and I'd also make sure that the previous owner wasn't beating the poor car to death in Auto-X or on the track. Those folks need to be prepared to pay the piper or they're in serious self-denial.

Apologies to NAM -- this thread is starting to drift off-topic a bit...

 

What years and models have the N14 and what years and models are having issues with the hpfp?

 

This was just answered by Gil-Galad. 07-10 and then some 2011s. N18 started deploying in 2011+ MCS. And there is like 3 threads in this section of the forum that are at least 10 pages dealing with hpfp and chain issues, and a check in thread for people to put year, mileage and how many times the job has been repeated/fix.

Alright I'd like to get back on topic about carbon build up. So anyone actually figure out the pcv system in valvetronic n18 head yet?

 

Check out Posts #165 and #175 of the thread at the following link -- the most credible description produced thus far (although still waiting on the photo evidence):

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-2011-mcs.html

So it appears that the pcv valve integrated into the valve cover stays open under manifold vacuum conditions and routes the crankcase vapors through the newfangled ports and runners that we're waiting to see. Under positive boost pressure, this valve closes and the vapors pass through the visible hose on the driver's side that leads to the turbo intake pipe. That's the majority vote to-date.

 

I just performed this procedure today. I used a metal brush like the type you would use to clean a spray gun. After getting tired of inserting, thrusting and repeating I took on of the brushes and cut it down to about 4 inches and stuck it in the drill. Worked even better and saved so much time and energy. Im lazy. All in all I would say I got about 75-80% of the crud out and it took about 2 hours. The car feel a bit quicker, throttle response seems a bit better. I also cleaned the maf which had a nice coat of oil, soaked the plugs in seafom and sanded them clean. We will see if it fixes my cold start problem and how the MPG is affected

 

Update. Today the car fired up on the first try. These last few months its taken a few trust and some revving just to get it going. So far so good, maybe I was wrong on the hpfp

 

That was due to your fuel injectors and spark plugs being gummed up. Sounds like you got it!