Nothing but problems, the car has a mind of it's own! Sometimes it runs perfect, and sometimes it doesn't run, I have no idea why but it seems like it's scared of the dark because it usually doesn't want to run at night! Here is how it works, Start the car, stumble, stutter, shift to first, engage the clutch and then non stop yo-yoing and stuttering, happens in 2, and 3rd gear. Turn off the car, Turn it back on,either it runs fine, or it does the same thing. It's a 03' MCS 110K. New wires and plugs, 15% pulley, CAI, VGS, SuperSprint Exhaust. Pulled some codes and came up with these.

P0107 - MAP/BARO Circuit Low Input

P1106 - Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering

P1237 - Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering

P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

P1688 - Manufacturer Control Auxiliary Inputs/Outputs

I have narrowed it down to the following failures,
BPV
Coil Pack
Map Sensor
O2 Sensor
Vacuum Leak

Also, I have a Autometer Boost Gauge, it shows I am reading 14-17PSI WOT But my vacuum never reads, only reads around 4Hg. Does the gauge usually read the vacuum, I have it Tee'd into the FPR line, along with the VGS. Thanks! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Any ideas?? Trying to get this taken care of ASAP! But what's weird, on my way home today, the car ran perfect. No problems, no light, nothing. lol. It's crazy.

 

I could really use some advice! Just changed the fuel filter, that made a HUGE difference for my idle! Much cleaner! But still problems.

 

Best I can tell you may have a massive vacuum leak somewhere. At idle the gauge should read atleast 15hg, that's what my autometer reads.

A smoke test is the best way of sourcing the issue, another way is the carb cleaner trick. Spray the cleaner in select spots w/ the car running, and if the idle picks up you found your leak.

 

Well, I changed my hoses back to stock without the vgs and now I'm only reading like 5 psi of boost WOT and still only 4hg. With the vgs I was reading like 14-16psi of boost. The car is running the same though. I followed the directions on the how-to install the autometer boost gauge on here with the vgs, so I should be reading a vacuum? Or to read a vacuum do I need to tap into the intake manifold? Maybe my gauge is messed up? I don't think the car would even run at 4hg. Checked my map sensor and it is fuctioning correctly. Yesterday I checked my injectors and they looked in pretty fair condition, I switched injectors 2/3 that way if I have a misfire in cylinder 2, I will now know it's the injectors. But I carb cleaned them and they didn't have any rust or build up of any sort. Took my codes again and for some reason I got a "random misfire code." How do I spray the carb cleaner on the hoses? They are all under the intercooler? Maybe it's time for a new SC? I hope not lol. Another question, if I get the dtbpv, should I keep the VGS off? And is there any way to test the coil pack? Maybe the SC inlet gasket is shredding? Or crank pulley? Thanks for all the help!

 

Well, got some good news, just took off the vacuum lines from the VGS and make it back to stock and tied the boost gauge into the FPR, I am getting a vacuum of 10hg at idle now!!! Haven't drove it yet to see what my boost is but I will let you know as soon as I do. Maybe the Tee's im using are too small? They are 1/4" Tee's. But I also sprayed some carb cleaner in my throttle body, then cleaned it with a screw driver and a rag to get some of the grim off it. It doesn't close all the way shut though, I had to push it to make it close flat. Kind of sits at a slight angel. Is it time for a new one?

The car was off and this is how it was sitting-


Having to push it closed-


Also, here is my spark plug from cylinder 3


Sorry the pictures aren't the best, took them with my iPhone

Doesn't look like it would be misfiring to me

Thanks again everyone for the input. What Vacuum am I supposed to be reading at idle?

 

Sounds like these problems, and the ones you had before could be related.
I would do a few simple things...double check for vac leaks...sounds like you may have found one...then it may be time to readjust the baypass valve, or just swapp it out...it may be sticky...I might be tempted to run sme sea-foam through the car....buy the injection/vac house or pcv hose method...so the sensors and everything would get cleaned up a bit.
Since the car runs fine on a re-start, I kinda doubt it is the coil...I'm thinking they tend to fail when hot...and since a reboot of sorts, things run fine, the problem is a flakey sensor...and the vac leak you may have already fixed.
If the sc ic boots are leaking, it should easy to find....rev it up and see if you can feel the leaks, or simply look for signs of oil seepage and the resulting drips around the injectors/etc.
IMO if that doesn't fix it, get it into a good shop...if it is repetable, it should be findable. Indivdual sensors are expensive to replace, so a few hundred in diagnostics might save you some $$, and frustration in the end.
I'm thinking many independant mini/BMW shops might be the place to start...if they have the tools to plug into the computer, then go for a drive, logging the data, pretty common with many obd2 scanners, and some of the better shops have some very sopfiscated things to monitor a lot more parameters....

 

Just went for a little drive, I am staying at about 9-12hg in 5th just cruising at like 65, drop to 4th, punch it and then I am getting about 14psi of boost which is about right. (15% pulley and SuperSprint Exhaust) The Tee's I used are from the sprinkler section in Home Depot, I have finally come to the point where I figured out with this type of car you can't be cheap, if you try to do things the cheap way they just end up not working and having to spend more money trying to fix it lol. For now on I'm just going to spend the little extra cash and get what is recommended! Here is the Tee I used, maybe it's not letting enough Vacuum through it? Because when I took out the other T and couple hoses from the VGS I got vacuum again.




Also, is there supposed to be a cap on the end of my fuel rail? Because there wasn't one on there when I pulled off the IC, could this be causing a problem?


It's definitely not the IC Boots, just bought Alta couplers and have checked them! I was thinking the SC inlet tube, isn't there like a green gasket in there that shreds apart after like 80k? Read it on here somewhere. I ran some Seafoam through the gas about 2 tanks ago and i'd say that helped a bit but I would like to do it the pvc method, or just take the whole head off and do some scrubbing! Thanks for the tip on the coil, that's one less worry!

Yeah, I dropped it off in a shop, actually 3 shops and none of them could replicate the problem. It's really weird how it only does it sometimes. About how much does it cost to get it fogged? Is there a way I can do it? I was thinking about just taking it to the stealership but it's like an hour and a half away from me, (There is a new one opening up 2 seconds from me in 2 months!!) and I know they are going to kill me on the budget! Thanks again!

 

The cover on the rail was like 5$....I lost mine, but you must have mini order it...mine took 2 weeks to get from the wharehouse in Germany (I dropped mine), it is good to have to keep the valve clean, but not a short term trouble maker.
Since the seansors in the intake path only see fresh air/pcv flow, just using cleaner in the gas will only clean the injectors, valves, and combustion chambers to a lesser extent.
I have heard of guys using various methods to "smoke check" a car at home...I haven't used any of them...but then one I recall is a propane tourch, unlit, used in an open area, that is waved around slowly, while the car idles....if the rpm changes... You may have found the trouble area...just have a breeze, be outside, and be careful...maybe have a fire extinguisher handy, and keep your face away too!!
I did see an sensor recently pulled out of a mini that had not been sea-foamed...it actually got replaced, but it was pretty dirty, so sea-foam might work really well because it also cleans the residue on sensors...I understand they are seling it in a new areosol container to make injecting it eassier.... I haven't seen it in the store or used it...but it would simplfy the non into fuel cleaning....

 

I am going to order the cover asap! Gonna check online first because the closest Mini dealer is like an hour and a half away! I will check out the Sea-Foam in the aerosol next time I go to the Autoparts stores and use it for sure! So far no problems the past couple days. Thinking I am going to take that other Tee out and use a brass fitting tee. Getting full boost (15psi) but still only about 10in's of vacuum. How do you use the propane torch when most of the vacuum lines are under the IC? Does the smoker run through the whole air system? I gotta find out why I'm not getting full vacuum! The Mini is running great though so we will see what happens!!

 

Glad to hear you fixed it!

I would say you had a combination of a leak combined with air lines that were too large. I did the VGS mod on my '06 MCS (although I don't really need it, but I love the instant close of the BPV). I used 5/32 inch fittings and hose for everything. You can get a multiple "T" kit from Autozone for like $10.

If you have no "Yo-Yo" issues, I would leave it alone.

 

Well I was hoping to leave it at that but this morning changed that. Got in the car to head to work, started it up and it idled fine, then it just died. Started it back up and it was like choking and chugging to stay alive. Waited like 5 minutes and it started and then just died again on idle. Here's a couple videos of how it happened. If anyone has had any prololem like this the help would be greatly appreciated!! Don't know what to do next!

 

Now it's just not starting at all. It fires up and then dies

 

I'm beginning to think your problem is not VGS/BPV related. Check and make sure your spark plug wires are seated properly. Take them off the coil and check for corrosion or discoloration. The #3 terminal is notorious for turning black. Use STP carb spray cleaner on a shop rag or a brass brush to clean them up. Put a small amount of dialectric grease in them to keep moisture out. Also make sure the ends "click" into place (this is a bit harder to detect on the end that fits atop the plugs). Also check and make sure the wires to the coil are connected properly. Disconnect them briefly and see if they are corroded.

You can also consider removing the plugs and checking them for fouling or other discoloration.

Perhaps it's bad fuel. If your tank is low, take a 5-gallon can and go to a different name-brand gas station, such as Texaco, Shell, Exxon, or BP. Also maybe buy an STP fuel treatment and pour it in at the same time.

 

First thing I did was check the wires! A while back my number 3 did have corrosion on it and I used some fine sandpaper to clean it up. Looks great again and have also changed the plugs and wires after this happened to me about 5 months ago. Haven't changed the coil pack though so I figured maybe I should change it but the shop I took it to said it's fine. I posted a picture of the #3 plug in post #7 and what's weird is first it said cylinder 3 misfire, and now it says random misfire. As far as gas, I usually use Valero or Shell and just changed the fuel filter about 2 weeks ago. The fuel pump clearly comes on and pressurizes the fuel as well. I ran some Seafoam through my tank about 2 weeks ago and it helped a little, But it's still weird why I'm only reading 10in of vac..? Thanks for the inputs! And none of the shops that I have taken it to can replicate the problem. It's random! THe car has been driving great for like 2 weeks and then this happened this morning. If I let her sit and rest she will be good for tomorrow I bet!

 

Good to hear you've done those checks. OK, think back to whether the problem seemed to have gotten worse after you changed the fuel filter. I've been told that sometimes the new filter comes with the wrong O-ring seal in it, and you have to reuse the old one (there is nothing wrong with doing so). Not sure if you would smell fuel if the seal were slightly leaking. Try also connecting a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail (I think that's where the connector is at?) to see if you have good pressure.

 

The seal fit right in and looked identical to the older one which was like brittle and falling apart. The problem definitely got better after the fuel filter change and it made my idle a lot stronger and more solid. Where can I get a FPG? And how would I check it with the IC off? Do I have to connect it and then put it all back on to check it or just let the pump initialize? One thing I have noticed is I still have an oil leak somewhere. I took it to a shop and they replaced the head gasket because they said that's where the leak was but my oil pan is always covered in oil. It doesn't ever really leave a spot of the ground though. I had the car up on some ramps last night and cleaned out my PS fan, it was looking pretty nasty but I noticed just a good amount of oil all underneath my car!

 

Okay, these are the exact steps I just did and now it's running lol

Checked oil, looked like it could use a little but it was still in between the two marked spots.

Unplugged and replugged the spark plugs to the coil pack (which I did earlier today)

Unplugged and replugged the sensor right in front of the intercooler (MAP??)

Pushed on the radiator hose (kinda squishy) to see if I had a leak anywhere (just made bubbles in the expansion tank)

wiggled the (O2) sensor wire (white outer coating under the expansion tank) connected to the header

inserted the key, started ignition and the ran jumped right up and idled perfect with a check engine light on

Went to autozone to read the code a minute ago (ordered the kiwi wifi for the iPhone Rev app today! That way I don;t have to make these trips to autozone lol) the car ran great on the way over there. Kind of felt a little restriction with the throttle but it ran good. 2 codes came up but it was the same one twice.

P1106 - Manufacturer Contrl
Fuel Air Metering

Bought a quart of oil and the correct 5/32 tee fitting (bought an assortment pack) Added some oil when I got back home and then started the car. Check engine light is off and running great. I have no idea!

 

Same codes?
It's not the cover for the fuel rail purge.
Is the vac still steady? It sure sounds like a vac leak....
Has the BPV been removed or replaced? If so could be a broken ear - over tight can break these plastic parts - Boost still good?
Oil catch can? could be a problem with the hose on the grey line.
The plug in the pic you posted looks good.
Could be a bad fuel pump or pump relay... the codes posted don't read that way...but
It sure does sound like a vac leak.... suprised it doesn't go to limp mode, Interesting....

 

P1106 could be the MAP sensor, the 1 right near the TB. You could pull it & clean it - there's an "O" ring on it, that, if bad, will leak, bad enough that the car may not start.
Suprised it doesn't go to limp mode. Most interesting......

I wouldn't rule out the plugs on the ECU, you mentioned that the car had starting problems at night - expansion contraction thing... Maybe???

 

The one thing you checked that does stand out is the MAP sensor. It is possible the connector was loose. If idle or light acceleration was rough, that was your culprit. In WOT mode (> 80% pedal), the MINI computer no longer attempts to monitor the air/fuel ratio. It just throws all the fuel it can into the engine.

You may already know this. MINIs have two MAP sensors. One reads manifold pressure, and the other reads the outside atmospheric pressure. This is used to determine the proper air/fuel mixture to the engine (in combination with the O2 sensors). This is referred to as the speed density system.

If it were mass airflow (MAF), you would have just the one large sensor at the front of the air intake. The engine reads the amount of air moving by and adds fuel appropriately. This setup was common on late '80s and early '90s Mustangs.

 

Checked all my hoses and everything looks good. Went back and put hose clamps on all the catch can hoses.The TB hasn't been replaced of my knowing. I bought the car at 100K used so I am finding out everything that's going on right about now lol. My vacuum only reads 10in hg at idle for some reason still. I am going to replace the 1/4 tee for my boost gauge with the correct 5/32 tee and line so maybe that will make a difference? Ordered a Kiwi Wifi for my iPhone app Rev and then I will see what the exact vacuum is. Should be here this week hopefully! Boost still reads strong which is the weird part. I get about 13-15lbs of boost with a 15% pulley. And it never goes into Limp mode unless I am driving and it stumbles. I'm not sure what sensor (or if it was even a sensor at all) I unplugged and replugged. It's the two wires right in front of the IC, I don't think it was a sensor now that I think about it.



Thanks for that info on the MAP by the way!

 

That's the T-MAP in front of the intake. The upstream MAP is just right of the cylinder head, slightly foward of center, looking from the front of the car. Check this - - -

The T-MAP & MAP look identical - they are not. there're 2 different PNs. I can give you the PNs if needed... just need to find them, I have them though......

 

Your aftermarket Airbox could be rubbing on the upstream MAP wires.

Jeremy

 

The airbox is pretty much the same as the Alta airbox but I will check to see if anything is crushed. I will also look for the MAP Sensor and check the oring on it. Last night, took the Mini out and it was good until I got to about 50. Then I kept hearing a rattle noise from somewhere and she started to stutter again. Lost all power completely and had to restart the car. Kind of felt rough from there on and was very hesitant. Think I am going to go have it smoked today because I have to find the problem. I hope it's just a vac leak. Any other ideas?