Okay, since my last track day two weeks ago when I melted my 3rd valve cover, my ECM has been in limp mode since.

I've replaced a blow-off valve, air pressure switch and an O2 sensor. The first two things were because a BMW code reader said that was what was wrong. The O2 sensor is because the threads welded themselves to the downpipe. (according to the dealer, that is a common problem)

Anyway, I've racked my brain for almost 2 weeks. I took the car to the dealer yesterday and when they hook it up to the diagnostic machine, the machine asks them during the course of answering a flow chart, does the car have an aftermarket intercooler.

Of course it does and of course the dealership wants to wash their hands of it.

So I brought it home and started putting everything back stock, one piece at a time. (it was minor stuff... intercooler, boost tube and then downpipe.)

When I took the downpipe off, I noticed the wastegate was wide open.... hmmmm, that looks strange.

I then noticed that the nut that attaches the wastegate to the vacuum diaphram was gone....

What the hell is going on with me losing my nuts... this is ridiculous.

Anyway, I installed the rod again, put new nuts on it and hoping I adjusted the wastegate correctly.

No one seems to know how it's suppose to be adjusted so this is what I did.

I adjusted the nuts on the rod so that when vacuum pulls the rod back all the way, it closes the wastegate (obviously closed at full vacuum)

When you let off the gas, the rod should push forward and open the wastegate.

I'm assuming this is correct but you know where that gets me....


Anyway, my new O2 sensor will be here tomorrow, hopefully I'm done.

Geesh...


Mark

 

I have learned more about our cars through your melted valve cover escapade than anything else on here.

I hope that this solves it!

Thanks for sharing!

 

Thanks, I've learned two important things from all this also....

1) Don't take your car to the track, apparently minis can't take it. (is this going to stop me? Hell no)

2) Don't take your car to the dealer expecting them to look at anything that requires thinking past what corporate forces down their throat.

I've never once asked the dealer to pay for something that I caused or a modification caused.

I understand the rules and if something I did screws something up, I don't expect them to warranty it.

HOWEVER, I do expect them not to have such a narrow mind so if I do take my car into the dealership, they don't quit working on it just because there is an aftermarket intercooler.

I've got 18K miles and half a dozen track days on the intercooler. I ASSURE you that if the intercooler was causing the problem, it would have showed up before now...

Dealers, whatcha gonna do? You can't use them, you can't shoot 'em.


Mark

 

You did secure the nuts this time, right?

Good detective work -- hopefully you found the issue.

 

LOL, yeah, I tightened the nuts...

Darn, you make a major screwup one time.....




Mark

 

Loctite?

 

Can't.... gets too hot. It would disengrate almost immediately.

So far, double nutting, safety wiring and braces seem to do the trick. As far as the nut this time on the wastegate, well that's a whole new deal.

I'm double-nutting it also.


Mark

 

This was Hendrick MINI, right? I'll keep that in mind once I move back to Hope Mills this summer. Congrats on sorting this out, too.

Cheers!!

 

I've been in the automotive business for over 25 years. I completely understand the whys and hows of what a dealership had to deal with as far as warranty.

I get frustrated when everything is done by the textbook. It seems sometimes a tech won't look past the trees to see the forest.

IMO, it's more of a "don't want to" rather than a "can't".

I knew I was going to have a problem when I took it in a few days earlier and asked them to reset the light (because I thought I had it fixed)

Before knowing at alllll what has been done to the car, the tech said "it's gonna be hard to diagnose the car with all the aftermarket stuff on it".

The problem with that statement is the only thing he could see that was aftermarket was an intercooler and a blue boost tube. Perhaps it was from past experience but I think a little bit of human interaction would have made this so much easier.

I wasn't asking for anything free, a little bit of their knowledge may have helped solve this long time ago.

Oh well, guess I'll have to leave it stock if I ever expect the dealership to give me their undivided attention.... yeaaaah, riiiight.


Mark

 

You should purchase a Scangauge so you can read your own codes and reset the light yourself.

 

Hey, next time I pull my heat shield off I'll count the number of visible threads on that rod, therefore you can get it more exact. The way you put it is probably too loose but if it works then

Also this thread is kinda in the wrong section. Mods should make a Modified problems/issues section. This is Stock problems/issues area.

 

Lyndon (w0ady) with the blue G37 says hi Mark!

I hope you get it all fixed!

 

Mark,
This isn't directed at you...I am just talking in general terms and am very likely going to state something that you already are well aware of. Real mechanics don't work at dealerships. Dealerships are full of a bunch of thugs that walk around with their pants around their knees and that hat cocked 45 degrees past the 12 o'clock position(often taking calls on their cell phone). I have seen it many times and continue to see it (saw it just last week). The million dollar computers tell them what is wrong and how to fix it. Any monkey can do this work. They work to a single foreman....they don't care and aren't taught to care. Follow what the computer tells you and when it doesn't work....go see the foreman.

Any mechanic or anybody with an ounce of mechanical talent works for/at/or owns an independant shop. These guys can't afford the million dollar computers and many even take pride in their work. They are real mechanics - mechanically inclined with brains in their head. Independants can't afford mediocre or bad mechanics, whereas the dealer can because overhead is priced into nearly everything (including bringing your car BACK to them becuase something may not have been done right).

I feel sorry that people actually bring their cars to a dealer to be worked on after and/or out of warranty...

Now...for those who might be disappointed with my generalization, I understand that this isn't true everywhere and on all accounts so please don't crucify me. With that said...I have witnessed this many times and would wage that this is the way it is most everywhere.

 

Actually not only do I have a scangauge, I have two mac tools and a snapon ($3000 just for it) but the limp home mode light (at least in this instance) can't be shut off without using a BMW tool.

I wish I could reset it, my computers don't even recognize an error code.



I give up... lol. Everytime I make a post like this, the mods move it here so I thought I'd beat them to it this time and apparently it's still in the wrong section.

The problem is the nut backed off the wastegate connecting rod... seemed pretty stock to me.



Hey Chicklet, tell Lyndon I said hi. It was great meeting him at the track... hopefully we'll run into each other (not literally...lol) again some time.


I understand what you're saying... I've seen that at some dealerships. Though I'm not "thrilled" with the performance of some of the service techs. (not discrediteding their ability, just their lack of inititive) I can say that the techs in this dealership are pretty professional.

Polite, smartly dressed, clean cut, professional techs. Unfortunately, like many dealerships, they can be to dot the "i", cross the "t".

Sometimes you just have to do it yourself if you want it done correctly.


Mark

 

OUCH!!! That's a lot for code tools. I will just sit back now and learn from the master "Sensei Orangecrush".

 

Yeah...the diagonostic equip and reset tools are mucho doe.

Mark,
I am sort of confused. Your ECM is in limp mode now. Are you saying that the light is still on or, even if you fix the problem....BMW (dealer) still needs to reset the light (error). Or am I totally off here?

 

The car is fixed but it has a limp mode light on. The car is running fine... just the light stays on until someone resets it.

I didn't have to take it to my friend's shop to have it reset because when I reinstalled RMW's tune, it cleans it up for me.


Yeah, unfortunately I have almost 6K just in 3 code readers in my toolbox. (that doesn't include the last 3 I traded in to get these)

The sad part I bought them to reset SRS lights on new cars and half the time, they don't work because you need a special tool (like I do on my mini)

I think of myself more of "guineapig Orangecrush"... LOL.


Mark

 

OC, Only 6 track days, you need two more at VIR. The Mini loves track days.

I also hope the problem is solved.

 

God, I'm almost afraid to track the car anymore...

Of course, this is all self-inflicted. If the car was bone stock, none of this would have happened, right?

Mini makes a good car, they promote themselves as a track car, they glorify it's racing heritage and they push the you-ification.

God forbid you deviate from the master plan. Their idea of you-ification is putting on those STUPID stickers they send you after you buy the car. (I mean seriously, is anyone really stupid enough to put those garbage stickers on their car??)



I'm still thinking about it... I know I'm running out of time.


Mark

PS. And if I offended anyone with comments about those STUPID stickers because you put them on your car... well, GOOD, you're as stupid as the stickers are.

 

Will do

 

OC,

I lnow what you mean.

I have 25 days so far on the track and it has been good. Monticello, NY coming up on Monday May 17.

But I also have minimal engine performance mods, with the IC and the stage 1 JCW kit. I was worried about reliability so I went really conservative.

 

BTW,

Out of the box, the Mini is really not a lasting track car without lots of mods. Yes, it runs well on the track but over time??? Too many parts, especially the suspension and brakes that are a tad too skinny for my liking for track torture. Parts like u-shaped stamped control arms, skinny front and rear end links, high gauge stamped brackets for sway bars, small rotors and who knows what else.

 

I agree. I don't think it matters what kind of car you buy, if you want to track it, the bottom line is you'll have to modify enough to make it a track car and not also a daily driver.

The mini with a few mods is VERY competitive but like you said... over time, not that good in the long run.

And IMO, autocrossing is even harder on a car, too herky, jerky for me and the car.

Mark

 

In my mind, Lotus and Porsche are the only two brands that is "out of the box", with some minimal changes, longer term track capable.

There are individual cars like the Audi R8, M3 that can be in that class also. The Z needs lots of brake help though.

 

Sorry to hear about your nuts. What did the dealer tell you about the intercooler?