So they got the AC running again, blew cold... Then the fuse for the fan blew again and...

They told me to call the Mini dealer about getting it fixed because there's a TSB out for it. And that fix is gonna be over $500 when all is said and done. I am already getting sick of Mini ownership, it hasn't even been three weeks yet. Something about needing an all new wiring harness, a new PS fan, and possibly a new radiator fan assembly, plus all the labor. Currently working on getting the car dealership I bought it from to cover this, as it's been this way since I purchased the car (overheated the first weekend, AC never worked).

 

I was reading around and there were people mentioning that this fix should be free, even out of warranty? Sounds too good to be true but man that would be nice.

 

That green looks like the dye they put in aftermarket cans of R134a

 

it probably had a leak and the dealer or previous owner put a can in it before trading it in or selling it to you..... if it was the dealer they were hoping it would make it till the warranty was out

 

Got her back today. Babying until I get this fan thing figured out. No AC and it's hot as hell here...

I'm even more paranoid now, every strange noise from the engine is just a sign that I'll be in financial ruin soon.

Hearing a tapping that's going along with what I imagine a boost leak sounds like while going 70 in sixth down the highway. Drivers side.

Ugh. Afraid to do any power adding mods for fears of very expensive repercussions. Wish I could have somebody who knows minis well drive mine around a little with me in the passenger seat, easing my fears and telling me everything will be okay. "All R53's make that sound. Go ahead and put that pulley and intake on!"

 

Dude, seriously, if you're in the Philly area call Helix and ask for Eric or Ralph, they are the Masters and will get everything straightened out.

http://www.helix13.com

 

Not trying to be argumentative....but why in the world would you have to disconnect the battery for coil removal?

 

Don't get too worked up... This can happen with any used car. I went through five used cars in 7 years before I got my Mini. No major technical problems in 5 years, except Guam humidity causing some oxidation in my ECU last year. Of course, I got it new and take care of little things before they become big things.

Bad thing about used cars is it's hard to know what was taken care of and what wasn't. Recommend a full tune and Service II if you can afford it. Not cheap but may help avoid or reduce any problems down the road.

 

Its just another added safety. It is a device that creates a deadly electrical charge, and because of that(and the fact that it takes 3 seconds to disconnect the battery), I recommend it.

I know the chances anything would happen are 1 in a billion or more, but it is ONE in a billion. You could be that one.

Maybe I'm just being the guy from workplace safety videos, but meh...

 

So I decided to test if they actually got it working again. Took a nighttime drive and made sure air was flowing over the condensor... The AC works, but is making some very funky noises. The supercharger sounds much different when the AC turns on, and at one point, I started to hear a loud rattle/whir and shut off the AC right away (afraid of it exploding again).

What are the signs of a bad compressor? My guess is this one is letting me know it's on it's way out, but the dealer will never acknowledge that and I'm going to be very hot this summer, and broke.

 

When A/C is on and the coolant temps reach a certain point, the radiator fan goes on High speed and the PS fan also turns on. It can sound very loud. (Especially when you're in a drive through!)

 

Got partially under the car and spun the power steering fan, lubed it with some WD-40, and put in a new fuse. The radiator fan runs but the power steering fan still doesn't. Going to buy a replacement for that I guess. What's the cheapest way to get that done? I'd like to maybe get one with a grill at least.

Air blows cold and is quiet. The fuse will probably blow again but for some reason it has been pretty good. Also want to find the cheapest cabin air filter. I vacuumed this one out for the time being but it seems like a lost cause... Really clogged up.

The used car dealership is pretty much ignoring me completely at this point. They refuse to fix anything wrong with the car, even though it came with a 3 month 3,000 mile warranty. "We didn't make any money on the car." is their excuse. I'm really displeased with this whole experience so far...

One last question (for this post at least), what's the best way to check for a boost leak? I fear I might have one. I think I should pick up a scanguage.

 

Make sure your AC is on before you check the Power Steering Fan. The fan should start turning once the AC is activated. It's an easy fix if your PS fan is inoperable. If I recall, remove two bolts and unplug the harness. Don't pay anyone to do this as it is the easiest fix on the MINI.
---------------

Although not the best method, you should be able to use the Scangauge to assess the manafold pressure at peak rpm. One common cause usually attributed to anemic power is a faulty bypass valve. It is located right next to the supercharger/air intercooler on the driver's side. Check to see that it is has spring tension and is closed when car is off, open when at idle, and closed when engine is revved to high RPMs. If inoperable (no spring tension when car is off), use a zip-tie to secure the mechanism to its closed/fully extended position. Your power/manafold pressure should return to normal; roughly 11 to 15 psi. New and improved bypass valves can be purchased from places like Detroit Tuned.

Item number 23: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...35&hg=17&fg=05

Bypass Valve:



In addition, I suggest acquiring a Scangauge or equivalent to assess whether any given code your vehicle displays is something you can tackle on your own or if professional help is needed. Summoning a mechanic and associated labor fees for every code can get expensive. My Scangauge has already saved me labor costs many times its price; not to mention peace of mind knowing what the problem or code is immediately.

 

If it spins, and the fuse is ok, it will probably run fine. To check it though, the A/C must be on for a while, the car must be hot, and the radiator must go into high-speed.

Alternately, you can remove it, and apply 12volts to the pins in the connector to check it. Mine is 8 years old and still works, although it did seize up and blow the fuse this spring. I cleaned it and lubed it and it's fine now.