I F---ed up!!!! I have the new SC pulley on, the belt on and the tensioner stop installed and when I was putting the belt tensioner bolt back on it broke off, now I have a stud in the engine...I have about 1" of the bolt sticking out showing threads, but I don't think I can get a nut on it.....any ideas and where can I get a new belt tensioner bolt.

I need some super duper help here, I am screwed until I can get this taken care of.

 

Well... 1" beats the crap of 1/4"... you can go to a parts store & get a stud extractor for 1/2" or 3/8" drive...

 

Do easy-outs/stud extractors really work?? I heard that they don't work well....I don't guess I have too many options.

 

Yes, they really work if applied properly. With an inch of stud available you should even be able to put double nuts on the stud and back it out with a wrench. Assuming you can get a wrench on it anyway.

 

I recently installed a new s/c tensioner, and so I remember where those bolts are. Unless you have a direct shot at your broken stud through the wheel well, you're going to have a hard time drilling it out. Better hope you can get a pair of vise-grips, or double-nut, on the stud.

 

I like JAB 67s idea, but I don't think there is enough access. KD makes a studd extractor that can be found at most auto parts stores - our Autozone & Advanced Auto both have them... If there is enough thread exposed on the studd you would be able to double nut it... An easy out - not going to work for this app

 

Can you get some vice grips in there to twist the broken stud out, then just buy a new bolt?

 

It is the large belt tensioner bolt..the 16mm one, I still have the engine jacked up so I have straight on access. The vice grip thing is the first thing I tried with no luck.

I am not sure I can get two nuts on there just because the way the bolt sheared off, I don't think I can get something started on there.

I can't believe the bolt broke as easy as it did.

 

http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CC0Q8wIwAQ#

IMHO - this is the only to go....

 

Not enough threads for using the stud extractor...went and picked one up and no dice....guess I overestimated the amount of thread I had.

I live 2 hours from Mini dealer....should I see if someone local can take the stud out or just take to Mini dealer?

It just stinks because I was so close to being finished.

Anyone have any other ideas?

 

My buddy had a good idea of welding a nut on the end of the stud and using it as a new bolt to get it out. I think that might work. I don't have a welder....gotta find someone with a welder.

 

Threads? The stud extractor doesen't need threads, it's a cam clamp, turn it 1 way & it clamps on the stud - to install, opposite, to remove a studd...

How much of the stud is exposed? 1/2" should be enough.... that's 1/2 of post 1

 

I was going to suggest welding the nut on the stud too. I have done this on other occasions with great success.

Good Luck,
Mike

 

Well had a buddy come over and weld the nut on twice.....it broke twice. Now we have to drill and retap I am guessing. I am going to take it to one of my racing buddy's place. Things have just gone from bad to worse!

 

The bolt must have been cross-threaded into the block, which couldn't have been easy. Who messed with the tensioner the last time it was put on the car?

 

Since it sounds like the stud is already pretty messed up, you might want to try a pipe wrench on the stud. I have had a pipe wrench work when vise-grips did not.

 

No stud left to do anything with. Drilling and retap is only option left....I am convinced that easy outs do not and will not in this case work.

Mini dealership is the only one that has touched the car....I don't know the bolt broke so easy in all cases, both with me and the person welding the nut on the stud this morning. Not much effort at all and the bolt just snapped. I would have to say that the bolt is cross-threaded. Don't know, can only try and fix it at this point.

 

"I am convinced that easy outs do not and will not in this case work." Yup, you are exactly right. I'de be afraid to break the easy out in the hole.

After it's drilled out, you should consider a heli coil for the new hole.

Hope you get this resolved

 

Only being a shade tree mechanic, why would I want to use a heli coil rather than tapping the hole....I will admit ignorance here I just don't know the difference. I know what a heli coil is but why is it "better" than tapping the hole?

 

It depends on how messed up the threads are in the hole and the material the hole is in. It is difficult to fix threads in aluminum but steel/iron maybe. Especially if the bolt was cross-threaded into the hole, when you try to tap the threads you might end up with very little thread to accept the torque of the bolt without the bolt just spinning in the hole. For a heli-coil you drill a slightly larger hole and insert the heli-coil which replaces the original threads.

 

^ and you won't want that bolt to fail because of weak threads.
It will also be dificult to drill a perfect hole - right in the center of the stud

 

Understood.