I've got a 2002 MINI S, since April 2002. No real problems, until today and that crappy plastic drain valve dropped out.


I am pissed to think I have to purchase a $400+ housing, several hours to install, just for this?


C-clip looks well done, but I don't think I can get my hands up to place the clip, for housing is still on Mini


I like the idea of a rubber plug...........anyone have input if that works, and if so where to get a plug?


Someone needs to make these..... I'd pay $75 for one.


I really enjoy my MINI, never seen snow, seldom rain... now dead...pissed
Humbled

 

Found this:

Oil Filter Housing Drain Plunger Spring Repair Kit

 

Have one of these in my spares pack up kit but have not yet installed; so far (knock on wood) the original factory one remains intact. Wondering how many people have been running these, with or without issues. Have not heard anything one way or the other, would be a good new thread...

 

Wow this is a long-lived thread.

My '04 S w/200k miles started doing the oil-light-at-idle thing this weekend. I found the plastic plunger had 2 of the 3 retainers broken off. I replaced it with the Out Motoring part but unfortunately it did not solve the problem. Next step is to put a gauge and find out the actual oil pressure. I fear it's bearings time. And if that's the case it might be engine rebuild time. It has been burning more oil than I'd like....

 

The other thing you can try is swap in a new oil pressure sensor switch and see if that clears it up.They do go bad after a time. Worked for me once.

https://www.outmotoring.com/oil-pres...617513068.html

 

8 psi. :-(

 

If that's at idle warmed up you're good. See below left. Can check the oil pressure sensor switch next page. Also see the note on oil viscosity grade; should be 5W30 full synthetic.

 

3.6 psi? That's all‽ And I've spent the afternoon calling junkyards.....

Yes 8 psi warmed up. I'm running Castrol 5w30 Edge A3/B4 (man that stuff is hard to find!)

Gonna go check the pressure again as a sanity....

 

At minimum yes. The old rule of thumb for most cars is about 7-10psi per 1000 rpm. At an idle of ~850 rpm with 8 psi you're right in there.
Would also run it (slowly) up to 3K per the book and see what pressure you're running at that engine speed vs the spec.

 

Well if it wasn't dead before, it is now. As I was warming it up to check the hot pressure again, the engine quickly got noisy and the CEL came on. Oil pressure never fell below 10psi on the gauge. I inspected the oil filter (nothing alarming in it), reinstalled the oil pressure switch, and cranked it again. Still noisy, CEL still on (I need to pull the codes and probably clear it manually), and the oil pressure light is on steady. I don't quite understand the gauge reading vs. what the engine is doing (i.e. eating itself by the sound of it)

Time of death, 200491 miles. RIP. (Although there is a junkyard engine not TOO far away...)

 

I'm used to my MGB that runs about 40 psi at idle, 60 at speed. Minimum spec at idle is 25....

 

Would replace the oil pressure sensor switch. As for the noise, could be a number of things. To narrow it down would post a video of it for people here to help weigh in. Some frequently discussed issues at that mileage, some at less than half that mileage:
belt tensioner, idler pulleys
AC compressor clutch pulley, bearings
alternator, pulley, bearings
crankshaft pulley / harmonic balancer (would replace with aftermarket ATI or SFI/PRW, not OEM)
timing chain tensioner and/or guides
supercharger oil service needed (perhaps badly)
water pump

Before doing anything would pull the OBD codes to help focus the analysis and minimize further damage if there's a major issue.

 

Thanks for all the input!

Tomorrow I'll do more investigation.

Back in March of this year I did a supercharger service (the second), replaced a leaking water pump, fixed the leaking oil pan gasket, and did an Insp II service. I seem to remember pulling a main cap and taking a look at a bearing (and finding it not noticeably worn) but I don't have pictures of it and I'm the sort who would have taken pictures so maybe I didn't pull the cap. I do have pictures of the sump and crank and there's nothing remarkable (it was to me surprisingly clean). But again, 200k....

 

Well that's not good. New switch made no difference, which was pretty much what I expected. Worth trying though. The CEL was "no signal from O2 sensor". Not sure what was going on with that. I initially thought maybe I'd bumped the connector or something but I don't see how. I cleared the code and it hasn't come back. The noise is mostly from the top engine so I pulled the valve cover. Everything appears normal so I think it's the hydraulic lash adjusters not pumping up due to low oil pressure....

 

Could be restriction somewhere and/or oil pump is worn. Anything in the pan showing bearing failure, i.e. babbit, shavings, debris etc?

Also did you bring up the RPMs (slowly) to see if/when the light went out, and also did you check pressure at 3K rpm per Bentley? Or is it so bad that's likely not a good idea to keep running it ?

Again a quick video shot on phone would be helpful for anyone who might have been through this.

 

Nothing metallic in the sump back in March, and nothing under the valve cover today.

When the light came on today I immediately shut it down. However yesterday with the old switch, the light would go out around 1200-1300 rpm. I did not run the rpm up for fear of doing damage. I'll reinstall the vc tomorrow and shoot a video.

EDIT: re the bearings. I was just looking at the exploded diagram and I most certainly did not split the block! And given that the rod bolt are stretch bolts I would not have removed those unless I suspected a problem. So that explains why I have no pictures.... :-)

 

As requested, here's a video. With the engine at normal temp (just) and the new switch, the light extinguishes at about 1100-1200 rpm. The noise is clearly coming from the top end, and it is much more pronounced hot than when cold.

 

To me that sounds a bit like stuck timing chain tensioner, especially if you find it's louder near the front of the motor (right side of the car; U.S. passenger side) but others may weigh in. See what you think:

 

Maybe. I'd say the noise is more diffuse across the top of the engine, not isolated to the front/belt end of the engine. Hard to tell. It might be somewhat biased towards the front. But given that the tensioner is hydraulic, I would presume low oil pressure could be allowing the chain to be a little slack.

I'm tempted to try some slightly heavier oil to see if it masks the symptoms -- not as a fix but as a diagnostic. If the noise et al goes away, then it's all down to low oil pressure.

 

Careful with that idea. If you have an obstruction somewhere it could compound the problem greatly leading to a day (and engine) ruined.

Recommend starting a new thread on this situation; suspect many people ignore "old" threads in general.

8 psi seems high to trigger the light based on a minimum of 3.5 lbs but maybe that's the safety factory they designed. Clearly something is wrong with all that clickety clackety up top. Could be stuck lifters after the car sat a while, who knows. 200K is a lot and maybe it is time for a rebuild; would opt for this route if the motor is otherwise sound vs taking your chances at Co-Part or similar.

Would consider calling Aaron at Outmotoring and / or Way at WayMotorWorks for a phone consult. Those guys know these motors well and may offer help more specific to this situation.

 

Yes I should probably start a new thread. When I made my initial post in this one it was not so much to seek help (though I appreciate it!) but rather to let anyone know who stumbles upon the thread as I did that replacing this broken part might not solve the oil pressure light issue.

The 8pis thing confuses me a bit as well. Might just be my HF gauge lying to me.

I'm not sure I want to go the rebuild route. A set of pistons looks to be about $1000 and I can get a 100k-mile takeout engine for not much more. And there's that oil consumption problem that might be just valve stem seals, but might be bore wear. Certainly there's risk with a boneyard engine but there's also quite a bit of time saving while we're down to one car. And a S/C with half the miles. Plus, the last good machine shop I know about within a 100-mile radius closed its doors. And the rest car will still have 200k on it. But it's not a rust bucket and I did a lot of suspension work a few years ago. Decisions, decisions....

I'll call those guys.

Thanks!

 

Just wanted to bring my saga in this thread to closure. I fixed it! All it took was a new engine. I hope never to have to do that job again! ;-)

 

Oye.

I was getting a low oil pressure light at idle. Haven't really driven the car much and just assumed it was old/used oil as it has been in the past. Changed the oil and filter and still getting low pressure light at idle. Just ordered up an OEM filter, few gaskets for the housing and cooler, sensor and this valve. Fingers crossed here...