Window not going down?!
#26
08-06-2010, 08:38 PM
It seems window not functioning can be 1 of 2 things:
1 window motor
2 BC1 module which is the computer that basically controls everything but the engine.
If you notice any other electrical gremlins it may be the later.
Link lists what the BC1 communicates with:
http://forum.minicooper.org/showthread.php?t=9924
#27
10-17-2010, 07:22 AM
#28
10-17-2010, 08:57 AM
Were you wearing your leather jacket, with your hair slicked back? 
#29
10-17-2010, 09:11 AM
#30
12-20-2015, 01:16 PM
Explanation and no-cost FIX for the Fonzie Method
I was tortured by the "window not going down" problem on my 2003 and I did not want to pay for two new window motors. The thing that always bothered me about all of the different fixes (including new motors, new tracks, sanding commutators etc) was that the window ALWAYS went up, it just would not go down. If it was electrical, it would be stuck in the down position 50% of the time. Mine always locked up in the UP position.
The Fonzie method would sometimes work temporarily, but I could never predict when my windows would fail. I considered this a serious safety hazard because my son drowned when his car slid into the water after hitting a moose, so having windows that would not allow an easy escape made me a tad nervous.
One time I was poking around inside the door again to try to solve the problem when I actually found what has been torturing us all this time.
The problem is track alignment and it can be fixed in less than a minute.
On the underside of the door there is a bolt head that holds down a stepped wedge on the inside that keeps things positioned correctly. Slamming the door can cause the wedge to move one notch towards the passenger compartment and this little bit of misalignment will keep the window from going down.
THE ONE MINUTE FIX:
Use a socket wrench and loosen the bolt head 1/2 turn. Lower your window (it will magically work) and WHILE THE WINDOW IS DOWN snug the bolt back up. I have not had to use the Fonzie method ever since and I avoided the $1200 per door cost that the dealer wanted to have me pay.
It is logical, it is easy, it is free, and it lasts a long time. You are welcome.
Now since my method replaces the Fonzie method (and lasts longer), do I get to name it? Can it be called the "Derek method" (after my son) when you spread the word to other web sites? He would have liked that.
Let me know if this works for you (it will)
The Fonzie method would sometimes work temporarily, but I could never predict when my windows would fail. I considered this a serious safety hazard because my son drowned when his car slid into the water after hitting a moose, so having windows that would not allow an easy escape made me a tad nervous.
One time I was poking around inside the door again to try to solve the problem when I actually found what has been torturing us all this time.
The problem is track alignment and it can be fixed in less than a minute.
On the underside of the door there is a bolt head that holds down a stepped wedge on the inside that keeps things positioned correctly. Slamming the door can cause the wedge to move one notch towards the passenger compartment and this little bit of misalignment will keep the window from going down.
THE ONE MINUTE FIX:
Use a socket wrench and loosen the bolt head 1/2 turn. Lower your window (it will magically work) and WHILE THE WINDOW IS DOWN snug the bolt back up. I have not had to use the Fonzie method ever since and I avoided the $1200 per door cost that the dealer wanted to have me pay.
It is logical, it is easy, it is free, and it lasts a long time. You are welcome.
Now since my method replaces the Fonzie method (and lasts longer), do I get to name it? Can it be called the "Derek method" (after my son) when you spread the word to other web sites? He would have liked that.
Let me know if this works for you (it will)
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