Cant remove oil pan drain plug???!!!
#51
That rational is generally safe with a steel oil pan, but with the MINI's softer aluminum oil sump, I give more credence to proper torque specs, but you're right, one is unlikely to overtorque using a standard short wrench.
#53
For those unfamiliar with the Fumoto:
One last thought here, and this is a common sense point, but when final torquing the Fumoto, make sure the "handle" portion of the valve is pointing upward, as it could easily be sheared off by striking an object on the roadway (quickly dumping all your oil) if protruding below the bottom of the oil pan.
Just sayin'
One last thought here, and this is a common sense point, but when final torquing the Fumoto, make sure the "handle" portion of the valve is pointing upward, as it could easily be sheared off by striking an object on the roadway (quickly dumping all your oil) if protruding below the bottom of the oil pan.
Just sayin'
#55
If the drain plug was overtorqued while the oil pan was really hot, and the plug itself was able to cool down, then there is a good bite on it. This may be contributing to why it's so hard to remove.
+1 on breaker bar. If you don't have one, see if you can find a 2-3' long pipe to slide over the end of the ratchet handle. The goal is additional leverage. At this point, heating up the pan would probably help, too. Yes, it is amazing the drain plug would be put back with an impact wrench. Heck, on most designs, the oil stops draining the instant the plug is put into place before any tightening occurs.
If you round off the corners, you can either try the next socket size up (metric or standard), or you can take a hammer and tap the socket onto the bolt. If you do the latter, consider the possibility the socket will be tossed.
...
For the curious, the following sizes are fairly cross-compatible (with only a small amount of slack involved):
8 mm - 5/16 in (fairly spot-on match)
11 mm - 7/16 in (7/16 is larger)
13 mm - 1/2 in (13mm is larger)
14 mm - 9/16 in (fairly spot-on match)
16 mm - 5/8 in (fairly spot-on match)
19 mm - 3/4 in (fairly spot-on match)
The size that always gets you is 10mm. 3/8 is too small, and 7/16 is too large. Rarely does anyone have a 13/32 wrench laying around.
+1 on breaker bar. If you don't have one, see if you can find a 2-3' long pipe to slide over the end of the ratchet handle. The goal is additional leverage. At this point, heating up the pan would probably help, too. Yes, it is amazing the drain plug would be put back with an impact wrench. Heck, on most designs, the oil stops draining the instant the plug is put into place before any tightening occurs.
If you round off the corners, you can either try the next socket size up (metric or standard), or you can take a hammer and tap the socket onto the bolt. If you do the latter, consider the possibility the socket will be tossed.
...
For the curious, the following sizes are fairly cross-compatible (with only a small amount of slack involved):
8 mm - 5/16 in (fairly spot-on match)
11 mm - 7/16 in (7/16 is larger)
13 mm - 1/2 in (13mm is larger)
14 mm - 9/16 in (fairly spot-on match)
16 mm - 5/8 in (fairly spot-on match)
19 mm - 3/4 in (fairly spot-on match)
The size that always gets you is 10mm. 3/8 is too small, and 7/16 is too large. Rarely does anyone have a 13/32 wrench laying around.
#56
The rest of the world and even the Brits have moved on with metric, but not this country. Mini is almost all communist. There is at least one imperial thread in the Mini. That is today's quiz for y'all.
Last edited by pnwR53S; 07-18-2018 at 04:47 PM.
#57
I wonder if anyone ever get seriously burnt by hot oil at those speedy in-and-out oil change places.
#58
For those unfamiliar with the Fumoto:
One last thought here, and this is a common sense point, but when final torquing the Fumoto, make sure the "handle" portion of the valve is pointing upward, as it could easily be sheared off by striking an object on the roadway (quickly dumping all your oil) if protruding below the bottom of the oil pan.
Just sayin'
One last thought here, and this is a common sense point, but when final torquing the Fumoto, make sure the "handle" portion of the valve is pointing upward, as it could easily be sheared off by striking an object on the roadway (quickly dumping all your oil) if protruding below the bottom of the oil pan.
Just sayin'
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/lc-10.html
#59
Can't really dictate this. Depends on how threads were tapped. Best to pair F106 Fumoto w/ Lock Clip LC10.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/lc-10.html
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/lc-10.html
#61
I got mine new and cost less than people selling their used one here.
#62
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