Sorry for the long post but you'll see why it's so long.


I just got my 2004 Mini Cooper S a week and a half ago. I decided to change my oil for the first time before I left my hometown and drove the 150 miles to my apartment. I drained the oil, pulled out the filter, put a new OEM filter in the canister, put the new seal on the canister, and replaced the drain plug tightly. I had some trouble putting the filter back on because it didn't seem to want to go on straight. I eventually got it aligned properly by starting the threading and then pushing the side that was not aligned. I tightened up the canister to where I though it should be and put 4.7 quarts of Mini (BMW) OEM oil in it through the cap on the valve cover. I checked the dip stick and it was full, then started the car, didn't get a oil pressure light, and checked under the car to verify that it wasn't leaking. Confident that the change was good I started the trip back to my apartment. It was raining at the time and I noticed that the back of my car seems to get dirtier than the rest of the car. As I was driving back I noticed that the view out of the rear window was getting pretty bad. Somewhere along the way it got to the point where I couldn't see out it at all. When I got to the city my apartment is in I heard a small knock/tap. As I drove I pressed and released the clutch to determine if it was the engine or drivetrain. As I did that I looked over at the coolant temp to see if it was normal, which it was. I didn't notice any warning lights at the time. Well, as you've probably guessed it was the engine. As I looked for somewhere to pull over I looked back at the speedo and noticed the oil pressure light was on. I stopped in a residential area and saw something bad. The reason I couldn't see out of the rear window is because it was covered in oil. The chassis was covered in oil and dripping like crazy. I checked the dipstick and it was bone dry. Luckily the guy who's house I was in front of happened to work in the same field as I do and offered to take me to get more oil. I put another 4.7 quarts of Mobile 1 in it and drove about 10 miles to my apartment. After I got there I checked the plug and filter canister. The plug was tight but I was able to turn the filter canister about 2 or 3 turns. It was hard to turn when I put it back on during the oil change but I guess with the engine hot the block expanded and made it more easy to turn. So after tightening it till it wouldn't go any more I thought I'd found the problem and decided to drive it about 3 or 4 blocks to blow some of the oil off the chassis so I could verify that it wasn't leaking any more. Well when I got back it was dripping even more. It's possible that I was just residual from before but I don't know for sure. I haven't been able to get a good look at the engine block because the engine was hot and takes a while to cool down. So, finally, do you think that it is possible that I may have cracked the engine block? The car only has 25,000 miles on it and I'd REALLY hate to have to replace the engine, especially since I haven't had it long and it isn't nearly paid for yet. If it's not a cracked block do you think it would have bent a rod or a valve? It seems to be shaking more than normal but that could be because the oil had leaked out of it and it was almost empty. I'm going to check the block in the morning as much as I can and I will take a video of it running if that would help.

Sorry for the long post but it really worries me and I don't want to leave out details. Thanks in advance for your help. I really appreciate it.

 

Sounds like you did not get the o-ring on the canister on correctly (just a guess). The canister does not need to be tight just on firm to make sure the o-ring is in place. However it is easy to mess up the o-ring if you don't lube the new one before replacing the canister.

I would guess you don't have a cracked block but you may have done internal damage running low on oil. Not much you can do now except address the leak and refill the oil. Listen to the motor and see if it still has the knock.
Good luck.

 

The filter housing can be tricky sometimes. It has to be aligned just right to turn. Thulchatt is right, it's probably the o-ring. I don't think you did any long term engine damage.

 

I tore off about 3" of the thread on the filter can! What a royal pain. Anyway, you'll need a new o-ring (probably) and oil. fill it up and hope for the best! Too bad the cars don't come with an oil pressure gauge.

Matt

 

Seriously. I was going to get a boost gauge but now I'm making an oil pressure gauge the priority.

It was the o-ring. I'll post a pic in a few minutes. I talked to the local independent BMW/Mini mechanic and he suggested that I fill it with oil, bring it up to operating temp, shut the car off, then change the oil and filter. I filled it up with Valvoline conventional (since I would only be using it for about 5 minutes) and started the engine. Oil poured out of the bottom of the engine. I immediately shut it off and crawled under the car and saw that it was coming from the filter canister. I changed the oil and filter and this time used something they recommended called Sil-Glide to lube the o-ring (last time I just dunked it in used oil). It went on smooth as silk and no more leaks. When I originally put the canister back on the engine I had a lot of trouble putting it on. I guess it pinched during that process. I thought I heard a slight knock coming from the passengers side of the engine so I immediately drove to the mechanic's shop and had him listen to it. He said it was fine and that I got lucky. Thanks for everyone's help. I literally had nightmares about this last night.

On a somewhat separate note, the mechanic suggested that I change the oil after about 3,000 miles (or maybe sooner) and then not wait over 3,000 to 5,000 miles for remaining oil changes. He said he always changes the oil in his M3 every 3,000 miles or so. A friend of mine just bought a 2010 Mini Cooper S and they won't change his oil until 10,000 miles. What do you all suggest for distance between oil changes. Also, what oil do you use? I used BMW OEM oil when I first changed it and I've used Mobile 1 Full Synthetic for this last one. I'd heard that US Synthetics aren't truly fully synthetic and that you need to get Euro Spec Synthetic but the mechanic said they use Valvoline and Mobile 1.

 

Mobil 1 is fine.

I changed mine every 7,500 or twice a year, but opinions vary on what's best. With good synthetic oil I think the every 3K is overkill. BTW, I always use the OEM factory filter, I've seen issues with aftermarket filters - it's just cheap insurance.

On the R53 I found that pushing the filter onto the stub on the engine once, before inserting it into the cannister made it go on a whole lot easier. Don't forget to lube the two center seals on the filter first, some clean oil wiped on them is fine.....

You dodged a bullet if you didn't damage your engine running this low on oil for that far.....

 

I just want to say thanks to everyone who helped out and a big thanks to Motorsports of Lexington. Anyone in the Lexington area should definitely go to them. They're very knowledgable and extremely helpful. Just a note, it's on W. High Street. The other one is a motorcycle place.


Here the o-ring.


And the victim.


And the blood trail, or at least part of it.

 

Dang. I didn't oil the seals on the front of the filter. Is that bad enough that I need to change the oil again and oil the filter? When I bought the car I immediately stocked up on OEM filters but they are at my shop about 150 miles away so I bought an aftermarket from the mechanic. It looked good and seemed solid and since that was pretty much my only option I went with it. I'm going to change the oil before 3,000 miles and keep a close eye on the engine so hopefully the aftermarket filter will hold out till I change the oil again.

 

I do mine at 4k, and find it comes out a dark brown, (vs going in like apple sauce)

I'm sure I'll get flamed, but here is something to remember, the oil may be good till 10k-15k, but it's not just the oil you take out during a change, it's all the gunk and build up and particulates IN the oil.

 

After correcting the oil O ring seal issue, and you fill up your engine with oil, listen for any ticking or knocking sounds. This could indicate a bad bearing. If you don't hear any, you should be OK.

You will get a ton of opinions on how often you should change your oil. I've always gone by the computer intervals with both my old and current MINIs, and I have never had a problem. Additional factors are hard in-town vs. country driving, and how dusty the conditions are where you live. Even if you don't have a small leak (which many owners do, including myself), you will have to occasionally top it off. This will help freshen up the change as well.

Mobil 1 is one of the most seasoned synthetic producers, and many consider them to be the standard with which to compare. You have three grades of oil: regular, synthetic blend, and fully synthetic. The only thing I have noticed thus far about the Euro blend is it's a different viscosity. In my old '02 MCS, I used Mobil 1 5W30. The European shop around the corner used Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40. I think I will stick with it. The only thing is no stores around here stock the oil. I have to oil a six-quart case online (for topping off as needed).

 

As others have said many thoughts on oil change interval.
I use 5,000 because it is safe and easy to remember. If the odo says 5 or 10 k intervals it is time to change the oil. Probably over-kill but easy to remember and it is the same interval I use to rotate tires and check brakes.

Because you are far from a dealer, consider NAPA Gold filters. They are very good quality and even many smaller towns have a NAPA. (No dealer in Chattanooga either so I use NAPA filters)

 

Would it be so hard for MINI to use spin-on filters like 99% of the world's vehicles..........

 

MCS Fever, this has been discussed in other postings. A replaceable insert is how it was done several decades ago and is being reused as a way of reducing waste in the dumps. If memory serves, the European car companies use this as their standard.

 

I'd say you're fine until your next oil change. Did you notice if the filter had a plastic sheath inside of it? (to keep it from collapsing) FWIW, I pre-fit the filter, and oil the o-ring good, but don't oil the seals on the filter and haven't had issues. (I'll probably start doing that, though...)

 

I bet an aftermarket adapter would sell like crazy..........

 

waste a lot of metal and require a lot of separation tech as they go through the recycling process. The current tech is good, it's just a pain because it's hard to get at.

the intevals as calculated by the new service computers in the Gen two are just too long. The wifes clubby would have had only 2 changes in over 40k miles. there are engines that have gunked up when using this interval. REmember that MINI will do the oil each year or when the service indicator says, whichever come first!

IF you don't track your car, all the analysis data I've seen says that 8k-12k is OK with synthetics. If you beat your car I'd go to the shorter end of the range. Some say more often is cheap insurance, in a way that's true. But with 10s of millions of cars out there, that's 10s of millions of gallons of oil each year if everyone did the same.

Anyway, the first time is a biitch, that's for sure. It gets easier after the first time (just like dating and sex!)

Matt

 

10 qrts of oil spread over 150 miles isn't too green either.

 

You can buy filters mail order/Internet cheaper than the dealer, even with shipping. The oem/Mann/mahle is generaly considered to be the same. I would also get a spare drain plug, or a drain attachment. Fumoto makes a nice one.
And for the record, many mini's have an actual oil preasure guage....if you ordered chro/guage pack!! You lost the center speedo, but gain real/non idiot oem guages!!

 

My uncle owns a body shop so I get wholesale prices on parts, including oil filters. I forget how much I bought them for but it wasn't too expensive. The oil filter that I put in was a Mann. I didn't realize that it was analogous to the OEM filters so maybe it's ok. I was talking to a friend of mine and he suggested that I get a magnetic drain plug to catch any metal shavings. Is the stock drain plug magnetic?

 

so yah, i feel your pain BobbyTheLee.

I didnt quite have the blowout you did, but i have one. emptied 4 quarts of castrol syntec on the road and my back window before i caught it. The o ring was a hair too small. looked fine when i pulled it off the housing...

Now, either i got a bad batch of filters, or purolator sucks a bag of 1000 burning c*cks. i'm betting on the c*cks.

Do yourself a favor and stick with the OEM filters, change every 3 to 5k and get a fumoto drain plug from outmotoring.com. Also monitor your Oil color, level and back window for residue. I think the general consensus here is that 15k is way too long to wait for a oil change. if your like most people who sell thier cars off at 60 to 70k, that's 4 1/2 oil changes over the time you had it. i wouldn't want your vehicle, for sure.

 

Mini's may not have an oil pressure gauge, but they do have an idiot light... If the idiot light didn't come on and you're bearings don't sound like a bad of hammers in a tumbler, you should be ok...

 

Cobalt thought so, and made one.

Then they didn't sell many so stopped making it.

I got one in a MINI grab bag from ebay and sold it to a guy in Texas.

 

The stock plug is not magnetic....it is just steel, with a rubber gasket....supposedly one time use, but most folks use it several times. There are several places that sell magnetic ones....
Many folks love the drain valves....and just drain the oil more often, and let the filter catch the metal shavings, etc.
Most folks seem to do 7500 mile changes, and just re-set the counter every other time, so it is still a useful reminder of oil changes/inspections. Folks that do oil tests (Blackstone labs) have found you can, with some oils safely go higher....but IMO the fresh oil is cheaper, and easier, unless you want the data.
Hopefully your car will be fine...drive it a bit, and watch!! As long as you pulled over quick, I think it was not much worse than a few cold starts...not good, but hopefully not bad. For the next 10,000 miles, I would watch it closely!
The Mann/Mahle filters are published in a few places as the suppliers of the OEM filters....a few folks have had good luck with the top of the line NAPA filter too......

 

I think you've dodged a bullet Bobby. Best go out & buy a lotto ticket, you are one lucky guy.

 

I tore a new O-ring my first oil change and pumped a quart of Royal Purple Synthetic out on the garage floor before I could get Hendrix turned off....so I feel your pain.

Lube the heck out of the O-ring with OIL before putting it on. ALWAYS look for leaks. NEVER let anyone change your MINI's oil unless you know for sure that they have done MINIs in the past, know what they are doing, and have the proper socket for removing the housing!!!

Bob