symptoms:

-turn key to on, everything electrical fires right up.
-try to start the car, here a loud click repeat, all lights go off
-stop trying to start the car, brief pause, all lights come back on
-car won't jump start
-car will push start by dumping the clutch
-battery tested ok at autozone
-alternator tested at about 45amps at autozone, but the kid didn't get the ring thing all the way around the positive cable, so i'm not sure if that is accurate

ideas?

 

As long as the test lead was touching, it's accurate. Current won't decrease based on not completely touching, if the connection was bad, it would be jumping from 0 to whatever current your alternator is making, which in your case, is ~45 amperes.

Check your fuses for anything busted. That would be the first place I would look. That might lead you to the problem.

If nothing else, bring it to a TRUSTED shop. Things get nasty with electronics.

 

OK push start the car put in neutral and measure across the battery (should be 13.5 to 14.8V) if that is so then its a ground or other wire issue. if you are only puling 12v or less its the battery or the alt.

 

Sounds like it may be the starter motor, or a relay....time to test them!!
If it will not jumpstart, it is likely not the battery........
Has the battery been dying on you? Why did you think it could be the alternator? A failed alternator usually results in a dead battery/weak battery no start, with a clunk when the starter tries to engage, but cannot turn the motor, or a very slow crank. You do hear the clunk of the starter geat getting thrown forward....but no motion....with a jump, there should be plenty of power....
The fact the the light dim, but there is apparently no sound when you try to crank, makes it sound like the started is shorting out internally when activated.....or a bad ground...
Check the connections and grounds, but if you can pull it out, it can be tested....
45 amps is not a healthy alternator (pretty weak)....but you know it works, so for long drives, with few lights, it might be OK....

 

Thinking about this now, the fact that the starter is clicking directly before the electronics shut down leads to believe it's probably a short in the starter.

 

i'm thinking starter as well. Does short mean new starter? maybe solenoid?

 

I doubt it's your solenoid, but you never know. Just avoid touching it, if you do happen to get down and dirty. They can give you a nice jolt.

 

A point to note. The OEM alternator is rated for 105 amps. However, I'm not sure what they will actually test at when placed on the bench at the auto parts store. See if they have another in stock and have that tested on the bench as a comparison.

 

If you can bump start the car, I would suggest looking into your starter, the solenoid may not be fully engaging the flywheel.

Also, if your car runs and stays running, I wouldn't worry too much about the alternator.

You should also check the engine ground by the passenger side motor mount, remove it and clean it.

 

This makes sense to me. Alternator doesn't even factor in before things start spinning fairly fast.

Bad starter sounds like are really good place to begin. (First make sure the wires going there are not messed up)

 

The EXACT same thing started happening to my 2005 MCS 2 days ago, did you ever figure out what the problem was?

I'm guessing a short in the starter, or a bad connection somewhere relating to the starter. Most likely the former; the instrumentation reacts like the battery was disconnected every time I try to start it...

 

Seems I have similar behavior. Engine won't start when I turn key. Idiot lights turn on...But also stranger behavior... When I turn key behavior is not consistent, but at one point headlights turned on (by themselves) and driver side window inched down by itself a few times.
To me this seems like possibly a bad microprocessor/controller somewhere(?)
Same periodic clicking
Jump starting didn't work
Visually inspected fuses as best I could...nothing obvious.
Next step is to see if I can start engine by popping clutch...and avoid longish tow.
Any other ideas?

 

Mine did the same thing intermittently for a while...

I charged the battery overnight with a trickle charger, cleaned the battery connections and the problem went away...

Low battery voltage or corrosion on the battery terminals can cause this issue...

 

The car is five years old, battery is original, posts in other threads indicate battery issues can be a source of these kinds of behaviors, a new battery can't hurt and is an inexpensive solution if in fact it's the problem. Sooo, I'll try a new battery and take if from there...if that doesn't solve the problem then no harm done and I've eliminated it as the problem.

 

I've still got a warranty on mine, so I just scheduled it for service. I'll give an update when the problem is solved.

 

Just remember...LOT OF ODD things happens with these cars as the battery starts to go....So often, all is good with a replacement!!

 

well I feel like an idiot. Now I know why nobody followed up and gave the solution. I was just a fried battery all along.

It makes absolutely no sense to me why I saw some of the things I saw... So much for warranty coverage.

 

I installed a new battery last night and....it's all good.
(A conversation with service person at Inskip Mini confirmed my plan to replace battery, but of course no guarantees...fine with me, I just wanted another opinion).

Note: while looking for a replacement battery, when I called Interstate batteries, I was warned that although they have a battery for my car, the guy on the phone warned that it was not a good mechanical fit.

So I kept on hunting...through the website of the dealer I use (Inskip in Rhode Island) I was directed to Penskeparts web site. The description for the battery for my car referenced "...Exide.." So I went to the Exide site and found two possibilities. One for my base 2005 Mini (p/n L2/47-60) and one for the S version (p/n 47-60). No one in the area had the L2/47-60, so I opted for the 47-60 (same physical dimensions but higher CCA).

Alas it is not a good mechanical fit either. The metal assembly that holds the battery in place didn't fit (needed a wider lip along front and back edge to accommodate assembly). So I fashioned my own hold-down with a metal strap and a piece of wood between the strap and battery to distribute force and avoid chafing of the metal strap against the plastic case.

Be careful when handling the plastic cover that goes over the entire battery. There are two plastic tabs on either side of the cover that snap into place. One of those broke off...it's basically a poor design since there is very little plastic material holding the tab to the rest of the cover. Just be careful when handling the cover, avoid banging the tabs. After removing the cover, put it down with the tabs up so they don't hit or touch anything else and get broken off.

 

Deka 647MF fits perfect in my 2005 R50.