Clutch died in my MCS this morning :(
#1
Clutch died in my MCS this morning :(
While exiting the highway this morning my clutch went all mushy feeling and then started making grinding sounds :(. It is at the mechanic now (I feel so naked without it hahaha). The car has 110K miles on it, so I won't be surprised if it was the clutch that went south.
So what do you guys suggest? Stock clutch, uprated clutch? If so, what do you suggest that is not so insanely priced? I doubt my mini will ever reach more than 220 HP so I don't need anything ridiculously strong.
So what do you guys suggest? Stock clutch, uprated clutch? If so, what do you suggest that is not so insanely priced? I doubt my mini will ever reach more than 220 HP so I don't need anything ridiculously strong.
#2
#7
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#8
that's not bad @ all - i dropped just under 1600.xx for the clutch replacement. also, when they swap it out, have them check your shift cables - i found out the hard way and had to spend an additional 530.xx for parts/labor on the those about 2 months later.
Last edited by corohio1977; 08-27-2010 at 11:19 AM.
#9
Sorry to hear about your clutch....
Sounds like a good price. On an S, the tranny has to come out with a sub-frame.....but on Just-A-Cooper, folks sometimes get lucky, and it can be SQUEEZED in while everything is in the car, and this saves a ton of time (I have seen it done, it is a TIGHT fit, but some good MINI mechanics can do it!!). Either way, the clutch job is so $$ money wise, get the best parts you can, and do it right. OEM parts are a known commodity, and you know what the clutch will feel like when it is done....some aftermarket kits have a feel that is less than nice, and even if you can live with it, some folks will balk at buying a car with a non OEM clutch feel.
From talking to folks, the OEM is a good choice for most folks, since higher performance aftermarket clutches with more holding power will, by the nature of the holding power, wear out more quickly, and not be as smooth.
If $$ is a major issue, the Valeo clutch has been said to be one of the 2 OEM's, and it is available from some places a bit cheaper.
A question you should be asking is about the flywheel....
The OEM is a dual mass, and it is very $$$, and there is an aftermarket source for them....still kinda $$, but it will retain the OEM feel. aftermarket single mass flywheels, or light weight models require a slightly diffent clutch (sprung disk, as opposed to unsprung I think), and will result in a bit more vibration and harness at idle. A dual mass flywheel CANNOT be re-ground or re-surfaced, but if the clutch did not tear it up, it can be re-used in some cases....if the clutch was slipping, then it is likely grooved, heat damaged, and will need to be replaced. Light weight flywheels are popular for the performance crowd, and will enhance throttle response, at the cost of drivability, since these cars have so little torque, launching on a hill, or driving in traffic will be a bit harder...a compromise again!!
From talking to folks, the OEM is a good choice for most folks, since higher performance aftermarket clutches with more holding power will, by the nature of the holding power, wear out more quickly, and not be as smooth.
If $$ is a major issue, the Valeo clutch has been said to be one of the 2 OEM's, and it is available from some places a bit cheaper.
A question you should be asking is about the flywheel....
The OEM is a dual mass, and it is very $$$, and there is an aftermarket source for them....still kinda $$, but it will retain the OEM feel. aftermarket single mass flywheels, or light weight models require a slightly diffent clutch (sprung disk, as opposed to unsprung I think), and will result in a bit more vibration and harness at idle. A dual mass flywheel CANNOT be re-ground or re-surfaced, but if the clutch did not tear it up, it can be re-used in some cases....if the clutch was slipping, then it is likely grooved, heat damaged, and will need to be replaced. Light weight flywheels are popular for the performance crowd, and will enhance throttle response, at the cost of drivability, since these cars have so little torque, launching on a hill, or driving in traffic will be a bit harder...a compromise again!!
#11
Well, like Zippy says, they may not have been planning to replace the flywheel at that price - but my recommendation is that you do. The parts cost is nothing compared to having to pull it out again later because it's noisey or doesn't work right. Same as the flywheel seal, while you're in there......I would replace the slave cylinder and hose, throwout bearing and housing that it slides on as well as the flywheel, disc and pressure plate. Then you should be good to go....
Also, this clutch does not use a cable as a previous poster mentioned, I think he may have been referring to the shift cables. Wouldn't hurt to give them a look over, but if they're not causing any problems now, chances are they're fine.
Also, this clutch does not use a cable as a previous poster mentioned, I think he may have been referring to the shift cables. Wouldn't hurt to give them a look over, but if they're not causing any problems now, chances are they're fine.
#12
#13
Well, I just got the car back. It actually feels really great! I am going to have to get used to this new clutch pedal feeling, as it catches quicker and has a lot more "spring" I guess you could say. I was able to actually chirp my tires for the first time ever today!
They ended up replacing the clutch with an OEM Kit that included Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate, Throw out Bearing, pilot bearing, and transmission sleeve. They also replaced the crankshaft seal, and input shaft seal.
One thing I noticed was that the mechanic had bent my heat shield upwards. Should I bend this back to how it was (horizontal), or do I risk breaking it? Is there any harm in leaving it like this?
They ended up replacing the clutch with an OEM Kit that included Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate, Throw out Bearing, pilot bearing, and transmission sleeve. They also replaced the crankshaft seal, and input shaft seal.
One thing I noticed was that the mechanic had bent my heat shield upwards. Should I bend this back to how it was (horizontal), or do I risk breaking it? Is there any harm in leaving it like this?
#16
Yup, just bend them back....heck when I change my oil, I sometimes bump mine, and bend the corner!! Sounds like the shop did a good job, for a good price!! Sounds like you found a good place!! IMO, you should feel free to give them a free plug, so the next local guy can find them and use them!!
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