Hello NAM, I'm the proud owner of a (used) 03 MCS and i love it, only problem is my passenger side xenon headlight keeps going out randomly , but will easily come back on after switching my lights off and then back on.
I've already tried switching the ballast but the problem remains. I'm thinking now that the cause is either the bulb, or the ignitor, which i understand can't be replaced.
Anyone got any suggestions for me as i don't feel like shelling out $50+ for a set of new bulbs when my original one's may be fine.

I also have noticed that my lights will start up a blue color and then after a while, the driver side will end up looking like a halogen, while the passenger (the one with the problem) will look more like it should (bluish-white)
maybe this has something to do with it???

Thanks anyway NAM!

 

Well, you could carefully swap the drivers side bulb over to the pass side and see if the problem still exists.

If it does, then it's just a simple bulb replacememt.

Use care not to do this when lights are still hot, and not to touch the bulb ends with your fingers.

 

This problem is ballast bed,you need chegae it .

HID xenon bulb ,not easy filed.

about mini oem xenon ballast ,like this

 

Me too. Artoo is approaching 105,000 miles.

Turns out this is a VERY common problem. And like so many of our Mini's problems, my guess is that a lot of people don't realize that the light is intermittent.

Here's where it get interesting. The igniter is easily available. eBay has them. As does the aftermarket. But on our 2003's it is not meant to be replaced and the official fix is a new headlight assembly at a whopping $600 bucks. This really bothers me as Mini knew this and changed the assembly on later models so the igniter is replaceable. Anyway, I am looking for a winter project and found this today when looking at igniters.

The later model E46 2-door headlights have the lenses glued to the headlight housing, in addition to the clips around the perimeter. You can place the assembly in a 170-degree oven for 5-minutes to soften the adhesive and then separate the lens from the housing. Be sure to remove all of the bulbs before placing the unit in the oven. After your install you can soften the adhesive again, in the oven, to fully seat the lens to the housing.

That really piqued my interest. Does anyone have a bad assembly hanging around? I suspect that anyone who has this replaced has the old one or the dealer threw it into the trash. I am not even sure where in the assembly the igniter goes but I did email the eBay person and he said that the lens has to be removed. If all you need to do is heat up the assembly, that is definitely worth a try for me.

Doc, this may be a business opportunity for you. We solved the fan resister problem (at least for the 2004's and up). Let's put our collective wisdom to this.

Rich

PS-Any idea why it seems always to be the drivers headlamp?

PSS-Although you can change controllers and bulbs and clean contacts, the problem is most likely this.

 

It would be nice to see a DIY guide written up on how to do this with pictures. :D

 

I am getting closer to tackling this. I have the new headlight thanks to a great deal in the Marketplace.

One question first to any of you have removed the headlight assembly on a pre-facelift Xenon MCS. Do you have to take off the washer mechanism before you remove the assembly? The Bentley manual suggests you do but I want to be sure before I start.

And then I'll see what it takes to get inside taking pictures along the way and posting what I learn. I would also like to know how all these eBay and salvage places test these the igniters as there are a lot available and they all say they are tested and working. Could it be that the igniter is actually good but only needs the connectors to be cleaned and tightened?

Thanks in advance.

Rich

 

Im currently tackling this issue. To get the light out you:

1) power off on MCS, bonnet full up.
2) unplug power going into the back of the light
2) there is a slide clip for the washer hose, move that clip to one side and pull the hose off (note: you will get a little drainage of washer fluid is if engine is hot it will crystalize on it)
3) remove 2 coarse thread plastic screws that retain the balast and let the balast swing down on hinge.
4) there are 3 studs that hold the light in place 2 on the top of the light about the 2 and 11o'clock position and one at 6. you will need a 5/16 deep well 1/4 drive socket. (the regular depth mm sockets didnt fit quite well).
5) you will need to tilt the light assembly back and rotate slightly to clear the washer assembly. REMOVAL OF THE WASHER IS NOT NECESSARY.

You will see there are 2 sealed access ports on the back of the the light, open both oth of those. The top opening has your Highpressure Xenon HID bulb and the ignighter socket. The wire will trail off about the 9 o'clock position, routed down arround the back side of the reflector to the lower part of the housing. If you look in the lower port at the 7 o'clock position about 2 inces back and towards the washer side of the lamp you will see a black module thats about 1" wide 2" tall, and 3" long. THATS THE IGNIGHTER MODULE.

The issue im running into is that the wires appear to be 10" to 11" routed the way they are OEM but the ignighter modual from oemxenonparts.com is only about 3 inches long. Its got me scratching my head. The company rep im speaking with said they get their parts from an auto maker but this obviously doesnt fit.Im wondering if the leads can easly be changed.

Ill do a write up with photo's as soon as I can find my camera.