I just got a set of braided stainless brake lines in from ProMini. Can any one offer advice or a set of directions on the procedure of changing the brake lines? I remember seeing a post some time ago about making an inexpensive bleed tool that uses compressed air to push the fluid. I seem to recall it used a pump up garden sprayer?

 

Going from my experience bleeding BMW brakes, you should be able to use a Bavarian Autosport pressure bleeder (about $45) which is also available from other sources (all similar). The cap is a common Geraman car peice. I'll try to double-check tonight.

The ignition key will probably need to be in the "on" position so the ABS system doesn't lock out the fluid. Otherwise, it's a standard bleed: start at the right wheel and work your way to the master cylinder.

 

Thanks, any further advice is appreciated. Love the signature by the way!

 

I got the bleeder and a new can of ATE Super Blue. I'm curious, when I take off the stock brake lines to put the stainless on will I create a huge mess? Will air migrate up into the lines? If I leave the cap on the resevior will the vacume help to control how much fluid leaks out while changing the lines?

My plan is this. Leave the cap on the resevoir and one by one replace the lines. Then with inexpensive dot 4 use the bleeder to remove any air from the lines. Then empty the bleeder and one of the cheap dot 4 and replace with the Super Blue and one by one in the order suggested, replace all the fluid with Super Blue.

My reasoning is this: Ensure there is no air in the lines before switching to Super Blue so I make sure I won't use up a bunch of Blue trying to remove air introduced while changing the lines.

Constructive Comments?

 

Don't forget to blead the clutch slave cyl. It uses the same brake fluid from the brake master cyl.

 

>>Don't forget to blead the clutch slave cyl. It uses the same brake fluid from the brake master cyl.

You sholdn't have to do that unless you run the master cylinder
tank dry during your bleeding process.

Or unless you need to get super-fluid in there as well I guess.

 

Yeh, you wouldn't want the Baadd fluid from the clutch migrating into the good trick stuff which, I'm sure it would do in a short period of time.

 

How do you stop the migration of regular fluid in the Clutch with ATE in the brake lines? And why would you want to?

I would think ATE all around would be best. (?)

 

Ok, thanks for the advice on the clutch slave. Can I get some info or directions on where to find said info on that procedure? i'm still looking for answers about the correct sequence of events for changing lines then changing fluid, and I guess that includes the clutch slave.

 

I think Randy Webb has a how to on this.

 

Your right BradB, thats why I said to blead the clutch slave as well as the brakes.

 

Using DOT4 then switching to the ATE Superblue is a waste of time and money. Just use the Superblue when you bleed your brakes starting from the right rear, then left rear, right front and finishing at the left front. If you bleed with the DOT4, then when all air is gone, use Superblue, you'll waste your time as you have to bleed the brakes 2 times, and your DOT 4 will go to waste. Once you open the DOT4 bottle, you can't keep it very long because it is hygroscopic. In other words, it will absorb the moisture. Superblue, is a synthetic that is not hygroscopic so you won't need to change it as often and its shelf life is greatly increased.

Here's a link to make the bleeder. http://www.apexcone.com/JimPowellHom...r/bleeder.html

Changing the brakelines can get pretty messy, so spread some newspaper around to absorb the brake fluid that drips. Some SS lines come with rubber plugs in the bag to plug both ends of the old lines. These come in very handy. If it doesn't, use some paper towels to plug the ends.

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Beastmaster, thanks for the advice on the saving of fluid. Is DOT 4 from AutoZone etc really that expensive?

I was just worried that if air got into the system while changing the lines I'd need more than a can of Blue to ensure I had all the air out. I've never done this before so I want to get all the info I can before my car is sitting on jack stands!

I've yet to hear how I bleed the clutch slave. Randy's info only covers changing fluid to the extent of bleeding all 4 brake lines.

 

DOT 4 is pretty cheap at auto stores. For Superblue, ATE gold or Motul, you'll probably have to go to an import store. One problem I found with Superblue is it stains your bleeder hose so you have to watch it carefully to see if the fluid is clean or dirty. A trick that I use is to hold a piece of white paper behind the fluid to see if it is clean.

One can should be enough for your whole brake system. Air shouldn't get into your system as the pressurized bleeder keeps the system closed. Just make sure you have enough fluid in the bottle. The clutch slave has a bleeder valve that you open and close just like your brake bleeder.

 

Something to keep in mind, aftermarket brake lines are a little longer than stock. Don't let the upper part of the line stick up too high. I did, and it rubbed the wheel and worn down the coating on the stainless stain line! Pull the extra down below the hub.

 

>>The ignition key will probably need to be in the "on" position so the ABS system doesn't lock out the fluid. Otherwise, it's a standard bleed: start at the right wheel and work your way to the master cylinder.


Here's a curve for ya'll. I'm doing my brake lines (and pads/rotors) tomorrow cause the car is out of commision for two days while Powerchip loads the Webb/Powerchip software. Will I be able to turn the ingition to on and have it produce the desired effect for the bleed?

One other question, I know the order for bleeding the four corners, where does the slave fall in the sequence?

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B/B MCS w/Black interior, Custom leather, 1,2,3, H/K, rain, Custom Bonnet/Boot Stripes, Aero Grille, Centerline Excel's w Yoko AVS ES 100, Alta Exhuast, Rogue shift, H Sport springs, Madness Sway, ProMini Control arms, V1 w/ remote....

 

Has anyone come up with a brake line kit for "post March 03" yet??

If you have to ask, don't order any kit "yet".

 

OutMotoring has post 03 SS Brakeline kits. About $116.95 for all 4lines.

 

Ok, dumb question but what do those slick new brakelines do for you? I mean other than quality is better. im not sure why I would want to get that mod?
:smile:

 

Daxar,

Don't take this personally, I'm sure your question is out of curiosity not ridicule, your reponse brings up an interesting subject though;

The need some people feel to ask others to justify their choice of mods.

Most of us on NAM all like to upgrade for preformance or additional safety. This upgrade enhances both aspects as well adds an asthetic touch, which seems to be a popular reason for mods among members. I guess we all have our own taste and prioritized list of mods.

Is the $130-150 expense for a Whalen Shift Machine more justafiable? How about $150 for Nology wires? I plan on both items, I hope I don't have to explain that either!

Any one have an answer about bleeding with the ECU out???? When do I bleed the Slave, before the corners or after?

 

>>Ok, dumb question but what do those slick new brakelines do for you? I mean other than quality is better. im not sure why I would want to get that mod?
>> :smile:


Not a dumb question. Replacing your brake lines with braided ones reduces the expansion in the rubber lines caused by hydraulic pressure. Net result is a firmer pedal feel. It's a matter of personal taste. Stock lines work just fine. But for people who have gone the extra mile with upgraded brake pads and rotors and want to get the last bit of performace out of their modifications, this is a worth while step...along with high temp brake fluid change (might as well since you'll be bleeding the whole system after removing the lines anyway).



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Guys, not to worry I dont take much to heart, it was an honest question, I know I did lots of stuff that was for looks or just to have a better quality (just my O), I never new what these were for or if the quality of the ones on the Mini were such that upgraded ones would last longer and preform better.

thanks for all the input, sorry to hi-jack the form, I like the discussion.

Thanks,
Kent :smile:

 

The cars I've done brake jobs on were abs and we hever had the ignition "on". As a whole, I don't think the abs system locks out the fluid. If you use a pressure bleeder it is an easy job. Bleed rr, lr, rf, lf. As for the clutch, it was bled last. Not really sure as to the sequence of it.

 

My thoughts are to bleed the clutch first. As I understand it, the clutch is closer to the mastercyl. and I want to get that old fluid out of the clutch line so it doesn't back-feed into the main line when I start the brakes at the right rear. From there on I'll do rr, lr, rf, lf and maybe clutch one more time to be sure. My .02. Any other thoughts?

 

I was always taught to bleed from the farthest point and work your way to the closest point to the master cylinder. That would be rr, lr, rf, lf. Then we would work on the clutch slave after all the brakes were done.

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