Hi All,

I know this topic has been discussed at length in other threads, though I did notice some gaps in how everyone went about getting it fixed. In short, my ABS and Flat Tire light both came on and stayed on 3 weeks ago. Before doing an extensive search here on NAM, I brought the car in for a brake inspection at a local mechanic. He couldn't find any issues with the brakes, brake sensors or tire pressure. He did not check the wheel speed sensors.

After reading the numerous threads here, it sounds like it could be a wheel speed sensor issue. Now the problem I have, and that everyone else here had, was determining which sensor is bad. I had received a coupon in the mail from Hassel Mini in Long Island (where I purchased the car) for a free scan if dash lights are on. Problem is that they are really far from me and impossible to make a reservation for on weekends because they only have mini mechanics on Saturdays every THIRD Saturday. Also, I always get my car serviced at Mini of Manhattan because it's much closer. Oddly enough, after all of the work MINI Manhattan has done on my car, they would not honor the coupon from the other dealer. Aren't those coupons distributed to the dealers from the MINI parent company?

Anyways, MINI of Manhattan wants to charge $160 for a scan. I already spent $90 on the brake diagnostic at the local guy to find out nothing. I'd be in for $250 before I even bought a part and had it installed. This is getting out of hand. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'd install it myself if I could determine which sensor it was and how to remove the faulty sensor. I keep reading that the wheel sensor can be difficult to remove and that at least a partial removal of the plastic wheel well is required. I have searched and can not find any diagrams or pics of the removal and installation. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks again!

 

$160 is pretty steep for a scan that takes a couple of minutes to perform. Unfortunately, it's pretty hard to tell which WSS is bad, unless you can find a cut or damaged wire, or unplugged sensor. Take it down to us in Philly and I'll scan it for free.

 

if i saw your car come in the shop with that complaint i'd bet money that it was the left front wheel speed sensor.

 

Thanks for the offer. I actually was able to squeeze into Hassel MINI's Saturday schedule for this coming Saturday to get a free inspection. I am not sure they will do the full scan because I explained my situation and they seemed fairly confident it was a easy thing to check out. I am sure they will check the sensor wires first.

If you don't mind me asking, do you also do the work of replacing a faulty sensor? If so, how long of a job is that? I ask because, while the drive to Philly isn't terribly far, it would be helpful to know if I should be planning to make a day out of it. Also, would I get a Mets fan discount???

 

I would not even think to drive Into Philly with a Met hat on, let alone ask for a discount HAHA, Wear a Eagles hat and Jersey, that may get you some help

 

I recently had a sensor go out. While talking to a mechanic, he said he usually replaces the front right. What I would do without a scanner is replace the front right one, but keep the old sensor. If the lights go away, problem solved! If it comes back, take the sensor you have and install it in the front left (same sensor works for either side). The lights should go out and you will be holding the bad sensor in your hands.

Replacement is easy and straight forward. If you have a few allen wrenches and the ability to remove wheels, then it should be easy for you. If you don't want to do it, then take it to a mechanic that can pull codes so they can swap it out the first time. Should take less then an hour of labor. The first thing they should do is pull codes because even if the light isn't currently on, they can see it in the history and know exactly which wheel to pull and inspect.

 

is easy.

Take off the wheel.

Look behind the hub and follow black sensor wire to 5 or 6 mm hex bolt attached to the wheel carrier.

Lubricate bolt and the actual sensor with your favorite penetrating fluid.

Clean off excess penetrant and remove bolt (1/4 or 3/8 ratchet with extension should be sufficient).

Pull sensor off, it may be stuck so try to wiggle on the bolt end. You may need to pry off with a small flat blade screwdriver or pull off with a set of vice grips depending how stuck it is. If necessary use more penetrant.

Follow wire up the wheel well to a small plastic bracket on the subframe and pry wire off the bracket, use care not to break the plastic bracket. Again, penetrant may be helpful.

Remove the four plastic rivets at the front of the wheel fender liner and the screw on the bottom of the fender liner connecting to the bumper cover.

While bending back the fender liner from below, disconnect the blue plug for the old sensor. Replace with new sensor plug.

Replace rivets and screw on fender liner, route sensor wire to bracket and place on bracket, route wire to wheel hub.

Before inserting back into the wheel carrier, I recommend using a good quality anti seize compound to coat the sensor body (but not the tip). Copper based compounds are designed for higher heat applications, like in a wheel hub next to the brakes and rotors.

Insert into the hub, and screw in the bolt. Tighten just enough to attach. The correct torque spec is just 6 lb/ft, not a whole lot, which is why I use a small 1/4 ratchet.

Replace the wheel.

Including jacking up the wheel, it can take less than 30 minutes. The only difficulties that should be encountered are if the bolt or sensor are rusted on the wheel carrier.

BTW, retail price is about $130, online parts shops sometimes have them available for as low as $50-60, and dealers with discounts have them between $90-$105. Just some points on the curve.

Regards, Ricardo

 

Sorry for the double post...

 

Thanks for all of the recommendations. I was able to get out to Hassel MINI for a free scan since I had the coupon. Of course they quoted me over $400 for the replacement and installation. I found a place that has it for $60 online so I am going to order it and just have a local guy that I trust install it for me.

Thanks again everyone.

 

Which one is bad?

 

Les I talked with a very good tech at the local dealer. He told me it is almost always the front wheel speed sensor that bites the dust. Same part for either left or right front.

 

If you do get your tire from a local real tire store like Boulavard or Tire Kingdom they have a gadget that plugs in under your dash and will tell exactly which sensor is not working. My guy did it and charged me nothing. They even put the sensor in when I got a replacement No charge.

I do buy all of my tires from them and I did buy my Michelins from them. I could have got the tires at Walmart or Sams club a little cheaper but I have been dealing with Boulavard for years. They are a real tire shop and don't scratch up your wheels plus if I ever have a tire problem they take care of it.

I don't know why your dealer wants $160.00 to plug in the gadget for 3 minuites to tell you what sensor you need. I would be screaming in the salesroom if my dealer tried that crap with me.

 

I just replace both sensors, left one was difficult to remove, took about 10 minutes, I broke the top off trying to pry it out, I drove a 3" sheetrock screw into it and used a flat pry bar to pull it out, the left one was easy, in fact found the wires had rubbed the crankshaft pully and wore through the wires. I'd check that first, you can get the sensors online for 50-60 bucks. there is a post around here that measures a resistance reading (ohms)of a good sensor, if you are familiar with or have access to a multi-meter its an easy test. They are technically called a pulse generator by BMW and MINI, however auto parts stores refer to them as wheel speed sensors.

 

It was the Left Front wheel speed sensor. Ordered the part and I am going to try and install it this coming weekend. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

 

Ah.....thanks....good luck with the r&r........

...Les

 

Okay. So I gave this replacement a go about three weeks ago and I would have to say I failed. I also want to say that I don't think there was anything I could have done differently. I followed the instructions step by step but when it came time to work the actual sensor out it would not budge. I went at it for 40 minutes. I sprayed it with WD40 about 30 minutes before trying, giving it time to settle it. The sensor didn't move at all. Eventually, the top part snapped off after being pulled out for so long, leaving the rest of it inside.

So now I guess my question is will this be a major problem for a mechanic to get out with an easy-out? Also, how long would this usually take to remove with an easy-out? I just want to make sure I don't get charge for exagerrated labor charges.

Thanks

 

I've had this happen before. The sensor is mostly plastic, just get a drill and drill it out. Careful not to drill into the axle.

WAY

 

Any suggestions on the plan of attack when drilling? Side to side? Circular?


Thanks!

 

A quick update...

I brought the sensor in to a local mechanic and they installed it. Only after accidentally installing it on the wrong-non-problematic side. They had a difficult time getting it out. Because of their mistake they had to purchase another sensor and install that one on the side that was identified as having the problem. Despite MINI scanning my car and informing me the left front sensor was the issue, I am still experiencing the ABS/Flat Tire light on after the replacement. The only thing I notice that is different is that the flat tire light doesn't immediately come on. It takes a few seconds.

Now I am at a loss as to what to do. There are TWO new senors in the front and I am still having this problem.

 

Do you have this kind of problem?

I have similar problem as you but with many more lights on and off like a Xmas tree lights mounted on dashboard.

I ended up ordered 4 sensors (2 fronts and 2 rears) from www.autopartswarehouse.com because I had no option...I need to get it fixed asap. They have 20% off sale going on right now if you're planning to order something else...but I think it's good for today only.

Please keep us posted of what your findings. I will report back if the issue is fixed or not after replacing all 4 sensors.

From what I read, bad hub (where the sensor installs) could cause this issue as well.

J-

 

I made another appointment with MINI of Manhattan for Monday so they can take a look at the sensor issue. It's going to cost me some $$$ to get this stupid thing fixed since I have to bring it in anyways to replace an O2 sensor that was up for recall and is giving me an error code. They always find a way to charge me for other things when I have something else getting fixed under warranty. Prob will get the recommended tranny fluid flush as well since I just passed 60k on my CVT.

I will definitely keep you posted on what I find out Monday.

 

Gob15,

I just posted an update here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3170296

Please post back about what your finding.

Good luck to you, my man.

J-

 

Ok, I had the light trifecta and the code indicated left front. I had all the problems everyone talks about with that particular sensor (stuck, broke, screw &pry bar to fix). Had a tough time inserting new one, but it is in. It was fine this weekend after replacement, but now I have an intermittent pulsation as if the anti-lock system was preventing brake lockup; however, it happens at different speeds and brake pressure applied. Anyone see or hear of this problem before? I suspect the new sensor may be faulty?

Thoughts?

 

Sorry guys. I thought I followed up on my situation from last winter. In the case this helps anyone else out here is what went down.

Continuing from my last post, I brought my MC into the dealer. They did the scan even though I knew it was the front left sensor. The dealer in NYC is so shady sometimes. He made them do TWO of the same scans. One before they replaced the sensor and another after "just to make sure it was only the front left." So instead of waving the scan since they did the work they still got me on the second scan. Fortunately, when I went to pick up the car my rep was not there. Someone else gave me the bill at which point I questioned why a scan was on there since they usually work the scan into the actual cost of work on the car. They didn't realize there were two scans done so they removed the second scan charge.

Next, I called the local mechanics corporate office and complained about how they botched the job which forced me to go to the dealer. They requested I send them the bill. They reimbursed me for everything but the actual part. They pretty much paid for me to go to MINI and paid their labor charges. In this case I was fortunate.

@ B0rkman - In the end, it was a faulty left front wheel speed sensor (like everyone else had said it would be). It was a nightmare to get out, even for the local mechanics. I hate to tell you to do this but maybe bringing it to the mechanic, even mini, to have it installed may be your best bet. You can buy the part much cheaper online and if you can find a mechanic familiar with the MC then you can save on the labor. For them it should be no longer than a 30 minute job. They have the tools to get the sensor out quickly even if it is stuck.

Good luck.

 

Hi guys, I had the same problem on my cooper in Italy and the solution of the story is incredible.
I spent two weeks with the ABS and the Tire Flat lights on.
At the same time I had problems with the remote keyless, no way to open or close the doors by remote.
I discovered that the remote problem was on the receiver board, located inside the interior mirror.
After the substitution of a transistor the remote start to work.
Well, after 10 meters driving, the ABS light as well as the Flat Tire light switch off and until today are still off.
I am not sure but when the two lights are on at the same time, it mean that the receiving board of the remote is not working.
Please check it.