So I read through most of the "Door Lock Problems" sticky and couldn't really find an answer I was happy with...

A couple weeks ago, both doors and the trunk randomly ceased locking and unlocking via the remote. This went on for about a week, after which they went back to normal functionality. A few days later, everything went out again. The doors and trunk WILL lock and unlock via the outside driver's side door handle and the inside toggle switch; just not the wireless remote. I have tried both fobs to rule out dead battery, etc - no luck. SES has come on intermittently throughout this issue.

Based on my findings in the aforementioned thread, I think it's safe to say this is NOT a failed actuator since the issue occurred simultaneously on both doors and the trunk. And as I said earlier, I've already ruled out key-fob failure. But what else does this leave? I've seen a few mentions of a "Body Control Module", but not much diagnostic information. Am I missing something?

 

When the remote feature on one of my keys failed I did the "Key Initialization" procedure.
You must do both keys in the allotted time, step 5, as it seems to deactivate the second key if you only do one key.

I've not had the SES light come on when my key acted up so this may not be the answer your looking for.

Initialize remote key as follows:

1.) Close all doors.
2.) Switch the ignition switch to KL-R (first turn), switch back off within 5 seconds and remove the key.
3.) Within 30 seconds, press and hold the unlock button and at the same time,
press and release the lock button (3) times. (Must be completed within 10 seconds)
4.) Release both buttons. The doors will lock/unlock to signal a successful initialization.
5.) If additional keys need to be initialized, repeat steps 3-4 within 30 seconds.
6.) Switching the ignition to KL-R completes the initialization.

Hope this helps...

 

Kazlot... THANK YOU!!!! I had a fob that stopped working tonight and your post fixed it

 

Just for the record - mine turned out to be the receiver in the rear-view mirror.

 

Your welcome, I'm glad it helped.

According to MINI USA you should rotate keys every three months to keep them working properly.
I assume that's to keep them charged so they don't lose their memory.

Now having said that, it's electronic, so that means something goes wrong for no apparent reason.

 

Did you have to buy a mirror or was just the receiver available?

 

A follow up from me, the key fob that had the problem lasted about 24 hours before getting nothing again when buttons were pressed. I guess it will require replacement :(

Does anyone have any idea of how to aquire one at a "reasonable" cost?

 

I have a 2007 "S" model and one of my keys at first became erratic in locking doors (worked, didn't work, worked,) and now the only thing functioning in locking and unlocking is pressing the button on the doors, and the key still starts the ignition without inserting it into the slot. Do I need to replace it, or is there some kind of fix.

I didn't understand the earlier post about "switching the ignition switch to position K-LR" because -- as I understand it -- the car doesn't have an ignition switch.

 

You'll need to 'use' the key after the "Key Initialization" procedure.
According to MINI 'use' is driving for at least 30 minutes to fully charge the key.

Hope this helps...

 

The K-LR position discussed in the earlier post is for the first generation, R-50 and R-53 models.
That procedure doesn't work on the second generation, R-56 models.

 

I will give that a try, thanks for the tip.