2003 Mini Replace Reverse bulb
#1
#2
you reach up behind the bumper and feel two clips on the sides. squueze these and you can push the light unit out of the bumper towards you.
the bulb is 21 watt bayonet
so says haynes anyway. section 12.8
If you've an S be sure to do this when the exhaust is cold . . . there are heat sheilds back there but they can be easily bent out of the way to get access, just bend them back into place after.
the bulb is 21 watt bayonet
so says haynes anyway. section 12.8
If you've an S be sure to do this when the exhaust is cold . . . there are heat sheilds back there but they can be easily bent out of the way to get access, just bend them back into place after.
Last edited by Capt_bj; 09-17-2010 at 01:53 PM.
#4
It's also possible that your reverse light is out because the reverse light switch on the transmission is broken (not an unusual failure). If a new bulb doesn't fix it, look here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post2709748 (post #11)
#5
#6
We should move this to a new issue. But, I have noticed that the LCDs in my car are susceptible to cold. When the outside temp hits about 35F/2C, then some of the digits on my radio whig out. After the interior warms up a bit they return. Not true with your clock?
#7
BTW, thanks to all who shared. My reverse light was out today, but it turned out to be a fuse (will heed this for the future). However, you were all quite right in that all you have to do is pop the light fixture out of the bumper. Though, for those of you who are doing this for the first time on a Gen1 MCS, it is best done with small hands or long thin fingers. I noticed that I needed to release one side first then the other. Also, the light only fits one way, but it is easy to flip the housing upside down. Since there is a lot mild vinyl in the bumper, you can fool yourself into thinking that you need a little more force. So, be careful. Even when you have the housing oriented correctly, it takes a little force to get the light back into the bumper. Seating one side then the other helped here, too.
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#8
2003 Mini Cooper S back up light
Back up light not working. I jacked the driver front and pulled the wheel and used a 3/4" open wrench to remove the switch. Pull on the connecting tab of the harness and pull the connector loose from the switch. Once the switch was loose from the transmission using the wrench (didn't take much torque), I unscrewed it and removed by hand.
I gave the switch a good wash in WD40 and then put it on a meter to see if the switch was good. Set it at resistance, turn on the tone, one lead on each pin using alligator clips, and actuate the switch. Solid tone at actuation so the switch was good.
Reinstalled switch and tire. Switch torque to 18 ft lbs and lug nuts torque to 89 ft Lbs.
Back to the light assembly in the rear bumper above the exhaust tips. Pulled the plastic bumper out slightly just above the exhaust tips(it is flexible) and reached behind(I have big hands) and pressed inward on one of the clips. They are located one on the left and right end of the assembly. Once you get one side unclipped the assembly can be removed at an angle.
Turn the socket and the socket/bulb assembly comes loose from the lense assembly. Press and turn the bulb counter clockwise and the bulb comes out. When I inspected the bulb visually it was clear and the filament was in place. The bulb looked good to me. When I put the meter on it in resistance/continuity mode, it did not have good continuity--it did not beep. One lead on the side of the base and one lead on the nipple on the end of the base. It should beep.
Bulb bought at autozone. 7506. 2 pack for 6 bucks.
Install was reverse of disassembly.
Fixed
The whole process took much less than an hour not including the trip to the parts store.
Thanks for the great threads and especially the one with the pics to locate the back up switch on the transmission. That thread really helped even though I think all I needed was a bulb.
My original thinking was that there were two bulbs and I figured if they were both out it had to be a switch. There is only one bulb. If I had known that I would have started at the bulb and assuming my switch was good this would have taken less than 5 minutes.
Thanks again to everyone.
I gave the switch a good wash in WD40 and then put it on a meter to see if the switch was good. Set it at resistance, turn on the tone, one lead on each pin using alligator clips, and actuate the switch. Solid tone at actuation so the switch was good.
Reinstalled switch and tire. Switch torque to 18 ft lbs and lug nuts torque to 89 ft Lbs.
Back to the light assembly in the rear bumper above the exhaust tips. Pulled the plastic bumper out slightly just above the exhaust tips(it is flexible) and reached behind(I have big hands) and pressed inward on one of the clips. They are located one on the left and right end of the assembly. Once you get one side unclipped the assembly can be removed at an angle.
Turn the socket and the socket/bulb assembly comes loose from the lense assembly. Press and turn the bulb counter clockwise and the bulb comes out. When I inspected the bulb visually it was clear and the filament was in place. The bulb looked good to me. When I put the meter on it in resistance/continuity mode, it did not have good continuity--it did not beep. One lead on the side of the base and one lead on the nipple on the end of the base. It should beep.
Bulb bought at autozone. 7506. 2 pack for 6 bucks.
Install was reverse of disassembly.
Fixed
The whole process took much less than an hour not including the trip to the parts store.
Thanks for the great threads and especially the one with the pics to locate the back up switch on the transmission. That thread really helped even though I think all I needed was a bulb.
My original thinking was that there were two bulbs and I figured if they were both out it had to be a switch. There is only one bulb. If I had known that I would have started at the bulb and assuming my switch was good this would have taken less than 5 minutes.
Thanks again to everyone.
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