My MCS has about 111K on it, and it has had two problems for awhile.

1. Rough idle on cold start. Only happens if the car was sitting overnight. After about 10 seconds it would smooth out perfectly.

2. I have always felt low RPM hesitation, especially with A/C on. I know it is supposed to be a bit hard to accelerate from idle with A/C on, but mine was unacceptable.

After replacing the BPV (did wonders for higher end power), fuel filter, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, PCV valve, and a bunch of other small stuff, I STILL had both of the above problems. I even did the seafoam treatment several times to no avail. My car did run better after all of this, but didn't repair those lingering problems.

I then heard about this carbon buildup cleaner called BG 44K. Found some on ebay for $12 and said what the hell I will try it. Everyone was talking about how great it was on all sorts of car forums, from mercedes, to bmws, to hondas, to mustangs.

After using it for 1 tank, I can confidently say that BOTH my problems have disappeared completely!!!! I have consistent smooth cold starts, and very little hesitation on the low rpm end, even with A/C on.

For anyone else experiencing these problems, go try some. I wish I would have tried this before replacing all those parts. Although the DT BPV is pretty sweet.

 

It is my understanding Advanced Auto sells this, but behind the counter. Maybe Autozone sells it too ?

Keep us up to speed on MPG and if issues returns because when I run seafoam in my tank, I have almost the same results as you did then returns somewhat on next tank fill up.

 

Locally I could not find it. Autozone and PepBoys did not have it. Ebay has a lot though!

Definitely will keep this thread updated if the problem comes back. Crossing my fingers though!

 

When I was living in Colorado, I regularly used this stuff...at each oil change. It is some very good stuff, even at the $$$.
It is harder to find in the northeast...but I have found many Toyota service departments carry it...in Colorado, many NAPA's stocked...but it was not barcoded, since it was not really meant for consumer sale.

 

Hmmmm, sounds like something I should purchase.
My issue is right after startup, if I give the Mini some good hard revs, I actually see a drop, or a power suckout. It literally seems like the engine will stall as I try to rev the car. But after about 60 seconds everything is normal.

Though there have been times the car seems starved for fuel, because it's also stalled out on me as well.

 

This stuff has been around forever, and it is the favorite of every used car dealer. You can normally find it at Toyota and Nissan dealers as they sell it out of the parts dept. Back in the day when I work for a Porsche shop we would use this stuff by the case. It really works great.

http://www.bgfindashop.com/locator/index.php

 

How is this stuff different from Seafoam?

 

It is a very concentrated fuel system cleaner...sea-foam is really just a carbon/oil residue remover, and while it works, it is IMO optimized for fogging. The BG stuff is kinda like putting a case of Techron in you motor cleaning wise...
The dealer parts departments love to sell the stuff cause of the markup...but I can say, I could really feel the differance when it was used in my cars (non-mini) when I was using it in CO. If a mechanic in can type of product has a chance of clearing up a problem...it is IMO this...while it does not clean the intake side, it does seem to do great doing everything else!! So Sea-foam still has it's place!

 

Not sure what you mean by not cleaning the intake side.......this goes in the fuel tank right? Wouldn't that clean the intake valves and injectors? And why would you use both?

 

Is it a coincidence that there is an ad and link to BG44K at the bottom of this thread?



...I do like the stuff, have used in my truck before...

 

YES-it would clean the intake side...but it would not clean the sensors, or the intake upstream of the fuel injectors where lots of PCV gas condenses and forms gooooo......that is what sea-foam cleans...when a car has sea-foam added through the PCV.
Remember...sea-foam seems to do best on the intake side...the fogging/de-carbonizing....but since it is mostly aromatic hydrocarbons, and an some type of alcohol , it is not very good injector/fuel system cleaner IMO...so adding it to the gas is a dubious practice.

Gotta love the add...I think the add machine must scan the thread for appropriate products to advertise!!

 

Thought we were talking about fuel additives......as that is what the OP was talking about.

The addition of Seafoam to the air intake is well documented, but not what was being discussed. It does not "fog" as it is ingested in the air intake. It simply pools in there and soaks the deposits.

And it is a very good fuel additive as long as it is used on a regular basis. Much like using Chevron/Texaco regularly to get the benefits of Techron.

 

To the OP.....

What brand/octane of gas do you use?

 

You were right!! On the next fill up, the cold start idle problem came back :( But the hesitation is not there.

THIS COLD START PROBLEM IS RELENTLESS!! What can we do guys??

 

What gas and grade do you normally get?

 

You might consider checking the plugs. Type, gap, condition. Check the wires and terminals on the coil (#3 gets corroded).

For me a 10 second rough idle wouldn't even phase me, but then again I just putt-putt around until oil temp comes up, so I never rush to get going.

 

Soon as the conditioned fuel is sold at the pumps here this "cold start stutter" and conk out goes away......not sure if it's because of that or, because temps below 60 something is pre-setting the starting conditions of the MINI, like adding more fuel, less air, more air ?

Either way I am fairly confident it is somehow temp related. When it dips below 72 degrees outside and we are still on summer fuel, the cold start stumble always happens. And priming the fuel pump, waiting for this and that has no effect. Even after a I get it running after a initial cold start stumble. and just pull out of the garage into the driveway and shut it off. Then come back and try to start it an hr later, it happens all over again.....

Then to make matters worse for this diagnosis the issue with mine did not start until about 2 yrs ago when this E-85 fuel became more prevelent around my area. So that adds another factor into this mess as to what the cause could be.....

 

Hope someone can still reply being these posts are a little older.

We just got our used 08' Mini Cooper S. I personally hate it and has been more of a headache than fun.

Not two weeks after buying it we had to pay around $600 to fix a cracked heater hose.

Than the engine light started coming on. The car would putter when starting and this is in June when its warm. We have been pumping money into this stupid car just to get it to work normal.

The mechanic wants to charge around $700 to replace the fuel injectors.

There is NO WAY so where is a good tutorial on how to replace these parts related to the puttering on starting up the car. I greatly appreciate the help. Thanks!

 

Is this a 2008 cabrio (gen 1 R52), or a 2008 second generation car?

Either way, it's highly unlikely you need injectors, we don't see many failed injectors on these cars, especially those used in the HP fuel systems on the second gen cars.

Find a different technician, unless they can show you diagnostic logic in why you need injectors. Sounds like they're throwing crap at the wall and seeing what sticks.

 

Sorry its an 05. Didnt realize I put the wrong number there. Well the problems been lingering a while. Most mechanics I called dont like working on them in the Milwaukee area and the ones that do all charge around $100 for the diagnosis. After the heater hose was fixed the service engine soon light came on. So after research I changed the spark plugs myself and the next day the Service Engine soon light came on again. I took it to this mechanic and he ran the codes which were a cylinder misfire. He swapped around some coils and charged for the diagnosis which came to about $170. The next day the light was on again. Called him and brought it in. He told me the coil was bad which ended up costing around $400 for him to replaced. Took it home and the light came on AGAIN and now hes saying they took the spark plugs out and can see dripping from the injectors. He wants to charge around $700 to change two plugs. I feel like im getting raped with these issues.

Im trying to avoid mechanics since they all seem to keep charging for the labor of trial and error. If this is something that can be done by myself I would rather replace these parts over time while saving more money. The cold start up issue isn't bad its only died once after starting from leaving it overnight.

He's showed me the diagnostics and we even payed extra to get the oil changed and engine fluid flushed. That damn light is a pain.

 

I'm more confused ..
You can't move coils around on a gen1, aka 2005....it has a single coil pack....
What year car? The issues you have kinda makes sense on a gen2....they are different motors...
A heater hose is a rubber cut to length nose....I'm getting more confused...
And changing fluids would do nothing for a light....
Think you need a different shop...they are milking you...

 

Which shop are you taking it to?

 

Coil pack for first gen is like 100 dollars and there is Only ONE in your car if its a 2005?!

When removing spark plugs in this car you cant see the injectors looking down through.
However, if the spark plug gasket seals for the valve cover is bad, then when removing the spark plugs some will look like they were dipped in oil. Is that what they saw ?!?

If not, get your car out of there and get a lawyer if need be but they are ripping you off.

 

Yeah $1000 for a hose and coil should be a criminal offense.

Wonder what protection a consumer has against a garage that blatantly rips you off?

 

Some of the fellow from the forum said he had replaced the battery and it solved all the issues that was mentioned in this thread, and I followed to replace a new battery (Brand: VARTA) and it works !! No more hesitation and stalling, it's all gone all of the sudden !!

For those who has hesitation issue may worth to try by replacing the battery, the guy who offered this fix had mentioned the gear box or acceleration system were somewhat has the connection with the battery, and the local mechanics that he went to detected this issue and it fixed, he had replaced so many different parts under the hood, PVC, purge valve, MAP sensor, etc... None of these fixed the problem, until he replaced the battery, it works as a charm !!