Considering both engines have the same vacuum pump yes the "regular boring MINI's" could suffer from the same fate.

 

The engine does not make enough vacuum on its own so it needs the pump to supply vacuum for the brake booster. This applies to all current models.

 

yup. I now know fer sure that when my warranty expires in Nov 2012 my car will be gone. these engines are way too tenuous in design and function to keep around for the long-term. I know 5 people (who are not on NAM) whose timing system vacuum pumps have siezed, causing CEF (catastrophic engine failure). Safe to say also that BMW will never again partner to design an engine with PSA. They were better off using Chrysler mills.

 

I hear ya. Scary stuff. BMW is recalling the HPFP, they are aware of the issues with the MINI HPFP and timing chain and clutch issues, and now this vacuum pump issue? But that HPFP and all the other problems don't seem nearly as scary as this vacuum pump thing. Why no recall for this I wonder? It even affects MC models too!

 

Just wanted to update everyone that the engine was installed and is now in our hands. It took a total of 17 days from drop off to pick up. 2 days to figure out the issue, 1 day to replace the clutch per my direction (MINI will not resurface a flywheel due to hot spots, they will replace it for $1,100 lol, but will not resurface it for the $40 that it usually cost, I denied that instantly),about 5 days for tear down and install, and 1 day of testing and driving (2 Sundays/non-work days). The remaining days were waiting on the engine, and the kicker is that the service reports says that all the main internals were removed, ordered and beginning installation when MINI stepped in and said to STOP and to replace the entire engine with a long block. Interesting that I was never told this, only that the engine was being replaced.

I have no complaints about the way that MINI handled it other than it would have been best to return phone calls even after several messages were left. Once past that I received text messages about the progress and pictures. The engine bay was left clean and even my aftermarket parts were reinstalled and the warranty still stands regardless.

Note that no engine stickers or MINI wings are included with the engine exchange, the dealer didn't even recognize this, so I am just waiting on those because I am **** and want them.

Total bill with new clutch/pressure plate/TO bearing, AC belt, 5 quarts of oil & filter was $410. Total engine exchange w/ labor was $14,300.

 

Holy hell....

Note to self...when motor blows outside of warranty, build a full race motor for half the price.

 

You can remove the front clip with 6 fasteners, slide the old one out, and replace it with a new one. You don't even need a lift/picker, just a buddy to help set it on the mounts.

I bet you could have it rebuilt for less than 3k if you are willing to do the labor yourself, it looks pretty straight forward and there is lots of room to work with.

 

That's because dual-mass flywheels cannot be trued/resurfaced. they have to be replaced. I'm surprised they went with your denial. The SOP for a DMF is to replace it with the new clutch.

 

That's not really true. I have seen shops lock the secondary FW in place and resurface it, and I know of all kinds of people who have had it done with success. If the pre inspection says that it hasn't been completely cooked i.e. damping lubricate is still able to lubricate the guide shoes, springs/seats etc then it can be resurfaced. It is typical to reuse the DMFW with 1 clutch replacement, after that it should be replaced.

I only had them replace the clutch since there would be no labor charge, the FW did not have significant signs of overheating so I left it as is. If it needs to be replaced I will pull it and do it later.

 

??????

If you mean decades and decades ago, then yes. Both cars my parents had cars that were bought in the mid 70s lasted for over 150,000 miles. Every car I've owned since 1987 has lasted at least 120,000 before needing any kind of major work. These were all Japanese cars, of course.

 

I just saw this post and your photos. I noticed all the build up on the top of the pistons. Is that normal to have that much gunk on them or was that due to the engine failure?

 

, that would be my thought as well.

S.

 

To be honest, I suspect it's probably also the cam gear's screws. It's a major BMW problem and BMW knows about it and there's talk of a class-action lawsuit. So now wondering, did BMW also use the same screw manufacturer?

In the M3 world, it's known as the VANOS issue, where the cam gear also becomes loose as the screws either wiggle out and or they become worn out and soon the cam gear gives away and all heck breaks loose. It's become a DYI to prevent their engines from grenading.

See the pics and you can view where the screws are wearing out, sometimes it's just one with many times most of the them. Sometimes there are warnings signs but many times, the engine's blown and too late to fix. The new "fix" is the replacement of these bad screws with brand new ones that have been made "stronger and better". But BMW stealership's will NOT do these repairs, unless you want to pay them dearly. There's been no recalls so far, which sux.

From a BMW forum site, the possible issue: but the loose bolts are the ones that bolt the cam gear (timing chain) to the camshaft. The bolts are worked loose, but cannot fully come loose because of the VANOS adjustment gear and spring that are bolted over top of them. So they are in a loose state, and the timing chain cam gear is moving back and forth ever so slightly on them. This movement is what I imagine causes the "sawwing" effect. Over time, I guess they get sawed completely through, or else they get weak enough to just break.

From reading the OP's repairs done, cam gear "falling off", timing chain came off somehow......I wonder if the OP can quickly get a hold of the old parts replaced but in particular to look at those cam gears, timing items and especially the holding screws.

 

so only way to avoid this problem is to replace the vacuum pump? how do you when when the pump is about to go?

 

Well, the OP's original problem as told by the dealer's mechanic is that the timing chain went bad. The vacuum pump you mention is another story in itself. But maybe others can chime in on when the HP vac is going to go bad or do a search or post up a separate thread.

 

Maybe so, but the central point is this: MINI/BMW will NOT resurface DMFs.

 

When yr. engine seizes up. there is no warning for this particular CEF.

 

Hi Headlands,


Count yourself lucky with your 4 year warranty. I'm stationed in Europe and just signed to buy a leftover Camden Just a Cooper. The warranty in Europe here is only 2 years, so you either take your knocks after that, or pay out an extra 2 to 3 grand to extend the warranty with fairly low mileage limits.


This is why the vacuum pump failure is worrying me. There's no way to negotiate anything with Mini over here, as these cars are selling like hotcakes while other brands are laying off. For example, to clinch the sale the Mini salesman made a most generous offer to actually GIVE me free of charge! a small stuffed dog and a plastic registration card holder for the glove-box.


Is there anything you can do to prevent the vacuum pump failure, or should I just have the dealership swap in a new one in 2 years time as soon as the warranty expires?


Thanks for any suggestion, it's too nice a car to sell off once it is longer warranted, but I sure don't want to buy a new engine for a stupid reason.


Thx!

 

Saturday morning during a short drive, my 2008 R56 S made a brief noise in the engine compartment, and died. I knew it was an engine failure and since this is my only mode of transportation, I was forced to go purchase a second car. A bummer to have two payments and one functional car. On Sunday evening, I removed the valve cover to check what I suspected was the problem, and found the cam gear on the exhaust side had broken off, and fell into the timing chain area. Mangled the timing chain and bent at least two valves. It was interesting to me that the cam would only turn one way. After reading this thread, I know I have just suffered the same failed pump. Time to get cranky with Mini. It is a real shame the design is such that a failed pump can trash the engine. Looks like I will have to rebuild it myself if they do not step up......and buy a different brand next time if they don't help me out.

 

This is scaring the sh*t out of me. Blown motors eh. Sounds like keeping these cars long term is a BAD idea............ or even keeping one outsideo f warrantee.

Were any of you guys having idle issues?? My Mini is having idling issues and is surging up and down. Yesterday threw up a second check engine light (that goes away) under these circumstances.

 

I just bought a 2010 justa only because my wife wanted it. And every since I joined this forum, I am scared to death that buying this car was a major mistake. The only good thing is that it will just be a weekend cruiser but still, I do not lke paying 23,000 dollars for a defective car!
So reading about all of these failures is very disturbing!

 

This type of thing is the very reason I leased mine for 3 years. If it blows up in that time I dont have to pay for it and once the lease is up bye bye.

 

I feel the same way, and am annoyed with myself that didn't do more research before I bought it, but hindsight is 20/20.

Look, some people get lucky and you might be one of those. Unfortunately the overall reliability ratings for MINIs is without a doubt on the low side. Two separate friends of mine are selling theirs right now due to major unreliability. It makes me really nervous, too, considering many of the niggling smaller problems I've already had in under 16k. Not quite sure what I'll end up doing, but one thing for sure is that I will sell it the day the warranty expires.

 

The reality is that things like this can happen with any make and model, but if this type of incidence continues, then BMW/MINI needs to do the right thing and make things right. As Headlands has mentioned, some of us gets lucky and will not have any problems with the life of an automobile, but some of us won't be as fortunate like Blitzed and Bytespi - it's a crap shoot . I currently have about 53K miles and am crossing my fingers that my MINI will last a long time...

 

Just got news from the dealer that I, too, have suffered catastrophic engine failure.

Accelerating onto the interstate, 3 weeks ago, my high mileage 07 MCS (107,000) , hesitated briefly. I got the full engine power light, which disappeared within 10 seconds. Fast forward three weeks. My car wouldn't start and wouldn't crank. Checked the battery. Fine. I had the car towed to the dealer ($250).

After some investigation, dealer says the timing belt tensioner failed, but that it appeared there was no valve or other engine damage, so may be ok. After compression tests, cylinder 1 registered 100 PSI, cylinder 2 85 PSI, cylinder 3 65 PSI and cylinder 4 50 PSI. Major engine damage. Dealer presented 2 options:

1) Rebuild the engine. Parts and labor estimated at $4,000.
2) Replace the engine. Parts and labor estimated at $5,800 with 2 year unlimited miles warranty.

Dealer advised to call 866-ASK MINI to request assistance. Best part? Mini says, yes we know about the timing chain tensioner problem. It has been redesigned. No, we will not assist with replacement. Had you reported timing chain rattles under warranty, yes we would have fixed. Since you didn't, your out of luck.

This is the L-A-S-T BMW/MINI product I will ever own.