Transmission Trouble?
#1
Transmission Trouble?
First of all, I am not quite sure where the best place to put this post is. But, I will try it here.
I have a 2003 MCS Manual transmmission. About 3 weeks ago, we drove a 180 mile round trip drive (highway mostly) with no problem. When we got back into town, we got off the highway and drove around a bit doing some errands before going home. As I started shifting back and forth I noticed the shifting getting harder. The more we drove, the worse it got. We weren't far from home, so I got it in 2nd and drove home that way. When I went to shift into first to go up the driveway and moved the stick to neutral, it would not go into gear at all, any gear. We pushed it up the driveway and into the garage and it has been sitting there ever since. We've started it occassionally to make sure the battery doesn't drain. I was just sure the tranny was out, and before we do all kinds of towing, etc, we wanted to make sure we had the funds to embark on a huge repair.
We've started it and let it run occassionally to make sure the battery doesn't drain while we figure out what to do. the other day when I started it, I thought I would just try the stick to see if it would move and it seemed to be shifting fine. I tried backing up just a little and then pulling forward a bit. So, now I'm confused. It can't be the transmission, right, if it is shifting right now?
Is it possible that it is just low on tranny fluid and once it sat awhile and all the fluid had settled it is now able to shift? I know the act of god it is to check/add fluid, and I have no ramps. Is this something I could do by jacking up the car? I am handy enough and willing, I just don't know what I'm looking for under there. Could it be the clutch? We relpaced the clutch a couple of years ago. I just don't understand what would make it not work and then work. Any thoughts?
Also, here's our other conundrum. We are in mid Missouri, and there is no Mini dealer here. The closest is Saint Louis or KC, both about 120 miles away. There is a BMW dealer here, but they "don't like" working on minis. We got the clutch replaced at a Transmissions Plus outlet here back when they were Mr. Transmission, and they seemed to do OK.
I guess I want to know if you woke up in my shoes, what would you do? Have it towed 120 miles? Call around to transmission shops here? I am assuming not just mechanic knows about the weirdly located fill hole.
Money is an issue. (I know, I know, then you should have never bought an MC especially a 2003!!!! If we knew then what we know now!! ) We were considering selling the car before this happened; that is the other piece of this dilemma.
So, what do we do, in your opinon?
Thanks in advance!
Ren920
Columbia MO
I have a 2003 MCS Manual transmmission. About 3 weeks ago, we drove a 180 mile round trip drive (highway mostly) with no problem. When we got back into town, we got off the highway and drove around a bit doing some errands before going home. As I started shifting back and forth I noticed the shifting getting harder. The more we drove, the worse it got. We weren't far from home, so I got it in 2nd and drove home that way. When I went to shift into first to go up the driveway and moved the stick to neutral, it would not go into gear at all, any gear. We pushed it up the driveway and into the garage and it has been sitting there ever since. We've started it occassionally to make sure the battery doesn't drain. I was just sure the tranny was out, and before we do all kinds of towing, etc, we wanted to make sure we had the funds to embark on a huge repair.
We've started it and let it run occassionally to make sure the battery doesn't drain while we figure out what to do. the other day when I started it, I thought I would just try the stick to see if it would move and it seemed to be shifting fine. I tried backing up just a little and then pulling forward a bit. So, now I'm confused. It can't be the transmission, right, if it is shifting right now?
Is it possible that it is just low on tranny fluid and once it sat awhile and all the fluid had settled it is now able to shift? I know the act of god it is to check/add fluid, and I have no ramps. Is this something I could do by jacking up the car? I am handy enough and willing, I just don't know what I'm looking for under there. Could it be the clutch? We relpaced the clutch a couple of years ago. I just don't understand what would make it not work and then work. Any thoughts?
Also, here's our other conundrum. We are in mid Missouri, and there is no Mini dealer here. The closest is Saint Louis or KC, both about 120 miles away. There is a BMW dealer here, but they "don't like" working on minis. We got the clutch replaced at a Transmissions Plus outlet here back when they were Mr. Transmission, and they seemed to do OK.
I guess I want to know if you woke up in my shoes, what would you do? Have it towed 120 miles? Call around to transmission shops here? I am assuming not just mechanic knows about the weirdly located fill hole.
Money is an issue. (I know, I know, then you should have never bought an MC especially a 2003!!!! If we knew then what we know now!! ) We were considering selling the car before this happened; that is the other piece of this dilemma.
So, what do we do, in your opinon?
Thanks in advance!
Ren920
Columbia MO
#2
I'm new to Mini's, having just bought a 2004 S with 55k on it (keeping my fingers crossed after visiting this site!!) so take my advice with a grain of salt.
Manual transmissions usually either work or don't and if your tranny is now shifting OK I'd suspect something else is wrong. Having owned a Miata with their common clutch slave cylinder problems, I'd suspect a similar problem with yours. The hydraulic clutch pedals don't have much feel to them and if the slave cylinder is leaking the clutch doesn't operate properly and you can have difficulty shifting gears, and may not know there is a pedal problem. It's necessary to de-couple the engine from the tranny during shifting and if the clutch is not working this won't happen or won't happen enough to allow easy shifts.
Checking the slave cylinder is not difficult but according to what I've read here you have to raise the car and remove the plastic undertray to access it. Typical things to look for are signs of hydraulic fluid on the cylinder and you should squeeze the rubber boot to see it it's full of fluid.
Hope this helps you find your problem.
Eric
Manual transmissions usually either work or don't and if your tranny is now shifting OK I'd suspect something else is wrong. Having owned a Miata with their common clutch slave cylinder problems, I'd suspect a similar problem with yours. The hydraulic clutch pedals don't have much feel to them and if the slave cylinder is leaking the clutch doesn't operate properly and you can have difficulty shifting gears, and may not know there is a pedal problem. It's necessary to de-couple the engine from the tranny during shifting and if the clutch is not working this won't happen or won't happen enough to allow easy shifts.
Checking the slave cylinder is not difficult but according to what I've read here you have to raise the car and remove the plastic undertray to access it. Typical things to look for are signs of hydraulic fluid on the cylinder and you should squeeze the rubber boot to see it it's full of fluid.
Hope this helps you find your problem.
Eric
#5
Yes, in fact it's quite easy. The clutch slave cylinder bolts onto the outside of the gearbox and is connected to a hydraulic line coming from the master cylinder up under the dash. There is a linkage of sorts connecting the slave cylinder to the throwout bearing lever (again, I'm not fully familiar with the Mini). I believe you need to remove the plastic belly pan to access the slave cylinder but I've read that it's a fairly simple job to do.
Eric
Eric
#6
However.....
On MINIs there is a special tool used to compress the piston into the slave cylinder in order to bleed it properly, if you don't it may not work properly - that's where driving the 120 miles to a dealer might be worth it......plus their parts and work is guaranteed for 2 years.
That could be all that's wrong now - air in the system - which could be due to a leaky master or slave cylinder, or one that wasn't bled properly when the clutch was replaced.
But chances are good that it's not the transmission....the MCS uses a Getrag 6 speed that's very strong and mostly trouble free.
On MINIs there is a special tool used to compress the piston into the slave cylinder in order to bleed it properly, if you don't it may not work properly - that's where driving the 120 miles to a dealer might be worth it......plus their parts and work is guaranteed for 2 years.
That could be all that's wrong now - air in the system - which could be due to a leaky master or slave cylinder, or one that wasn't bled properly when the clutch was replaced.
But chances are good that it's not the transmission....the MCS uses a Getrag 6 speed that's very strong and mostly trouble free.
#7
Thanks again everyone for your help. This is sounding better and better!!
MINIDave, we would be more than glad to drive the 120 miles to the dealer if we knew for sure the car was driveable that distance. It is mostly highway. When it comes to a 120 mile tow charge, that might be a different thing. If it was you, would you spring for the tow charge to make sure it was done correctly?
Thanks again!
MINIDave, we would be more than glad to drive the 120 miles to the dealer if we knew for sure the car was driveable that distance. It is mostly highway. When it comes to a 120 mile tow charge, that might be a different thing. If it was you, would you spring for the tow charge to make sure it was done correctly?
Thanks again!
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#8
I've bled my slave, and will say it was the most annoying process ever. Wasted a good 3 hours before I felt all the air was out. That being said, it's definitely not impossible to do. I've seen some fabricate the special tool with two bolts, two nuts, washers, and a block of wood.
Just fasten this block to the slave cylinder to keep the plunger compressed. Then gravity bleed the system for 30-45 minutes by opening the bleed screw and letting the brake fluid run out. Keep topping off the brake fluid reservoir and make sure it doesn't get below the min mark. Afterward reinstall the slave and test out the pedal. It should feel firm and not spongy. Hopefully that helps. I found that this was the easiest way to get air out the system.
Just fasten this block to the slave cylinder to keep the plunger compressed. Then gravity bleed the system for 30-45 minutes by opening the bleed screw and letting the brake fluid run out. Keep topping off the brake fluid reservoir and make sure it doesn't get below the min mark. Afterward reinstall the slave and test out the pedal. It should feel firm and not spongy. Hopefully that helps. I found that this was the easiest way to get air out the system.
#9
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