MCSA - Aisin 6 Speed AUTOMATIC, failed at 80K?
#276
i'll wait a year.
It could be the TCU, I've only driven this car the past 2 weeks with a total of less than 300 miles since the new VB, 75% highway 25% city stop and go. My wife has been driving the Mini for the first 100-200 miles for the TCU relearn, so I really don't know what she did to have it "relearn". I've been driving it more aggressively this week so the TCU learns to shift later. It would shift hard because it shifted before 2k rpm. If changing my driving behavior doesn't adjust the TCU, I'll warranty it out within a year, I just don't want to pay another $1000 right now for more labor.
#277
logic
Cold start, hard shift from 1-2, and 2-1, these two gear the puts the most of amount of strain on the transmission. But after 15 minutes of driving the symptoms occurred 1 out of 10 shifts.
So what happens when fluid heats up? It expands and if it expands and it lubricates the gears more.... I filled 1/6 of a bottle of redline D4 ATF and redid the tranny fluid procedure: P to R to N to D, pausing 2 seconds for each, did that 3 times, and two more times on separate cold starts. Now I am no longer hard shifting on a cold start, it is now an aggressive shift, similar to reeving to the card to the redline. I am going to fill another 1/6 of redline D4. Then have the shop reset the adaptive drive. They were nice enough to agree to reset it for free.
So what happens when fluid heats up? It expands and if it expands and it lubricates the gears more.... I filled 1/6 of a bottle of redline D4 ATF and redid the tranny fluid procedure: P to R to N to D, pausing 2 seconds for each, did that 3 times, and two more times on separate cold starts. Now I am no longer hard shifting on a cold start, it is now an aggressive shift, similar to reeving to the card to the redline. I am going to fill another 1/6 of redline D4. Then have the shop reset the adaptive drive. They were nice enough to agree to reset it for free.
#278
#279
Second Opinion Pls...
So after reading this entire thread I think I have all the classic signs of needing a new valve body on my '06 MCS. <gulp >
Though, I'd like a second opinion before going down this moderately expensive road. (eyeckr, GreenR53, KB30, RevMax, others pls comment)
- @ 50k was hard downshifting 3-2 & 2-1
- I replaced the ATF (using Mobil 3309) three times, 2 qts at a time
- fluid replacement helped with the hard down shifts, but now flairs in upshifts 3-4
- I only drive the MCS on wknds, but it seems to be getting worse (last night it would not pop into 4th at all on it's own, I had to use the paddle shifters)
Question, how important is the ATF fluid level?
Any possibility it contributes to the problem? I ask b/c, when changing the ATF, as soon as I pulled the plug I got about 1qt flowing out over the standpipe. Once I pulled the pipe I got another qt (I had the front up on ramps trying to 'tilt' the pan to get more fluid). Getting 2qts out I just automatically refilled with 2qts. I saw the fluid check procedure but it seemed a bit dubious at the time...
And this next part - at the time it seemed like a good idea but now I'm not so sure. With the ATF drained and the MCS on ramps I started the car (foot on brake) and shifted through all the gears. This was done in attempt to get as much fluid out as possible (and it did cause abt another 1/4 Qt to drain). Wondering if this screwed up the Valve Body??
Anyway, @ RevMax you can probably expect a call from me in the next coming weeks to order the valve body.
Also, can anyone recommend a Trans Shop in the Chicago area? I'm half tempted to do the job myself. But frankly, having to unbolt / pull the engine has me a bit scared!
Though, I'd like a second opinion before going down this moderately expensive road. (eyeckr, GreenR53, KB30, RevMax, others pls comment)
- @ 50k was hard downshifting 3-2 & 2-1
- I replaced the ATF (using Mobil 3309) three times, 2 qts at a time
- fluid replacement helped with the hard down shifts, but now flairs in upshifts 3-4
- I only drive the MCS on wknds, but it seems to be getting worse (last night it would not pop into 4th at all on it's own, I had to use the paddle shifters)
Question, how important is the ATF fluid level?
Any possibility it contributes to the problem? I ask b/c, when changing the ATF, as soon as I pulled the plug I got about 1qt flowing out over the standpipe. Once I pulled the pipe I got another qt (I had the front up on ramps trying to 'tilt' the pan to get more fluid). Getting 2qts out I just automatically refilled with 2qts. I saw the fluid check procedure but it seemed a bit dubious at the time...
And this next part - at the time it seemed like a good idea but now I'm not so sure. With the ATF drained and the MCS on ramps I started the car (foot on brake) and shifted through all the gears. This was done in attempt to get as much fluid out as possible (and it did cause abt another 1/4 Qt to drain). Wondering if this screwed up the Valve Body??
Anyway, @ RevMax you can probably expect a call from me in the next coming weeks to order the valve body.
Also, can anyone recommend a Trans Shop in the Chicago area? I'm half tempted to do the job myself. But frankly, having to unbolt / pull the engine has me a bit scared!
#280
So after reading this entire thread I think I have all the classic signs of needing a new valve body on my '06 MCS. <gulp >
Though, I'd like a second opinion before going down this moderately expensive road. (eyeckr, GreenR53, KB30, RevMax, others pls comment)
- @ 50k was hard downshifting 3-2 & 2-1
- I replaced the ATF (using Mobil 3309) three times, 2 qts at a time
- fluid replacement helped with the hard down shifts, but now flairs in upshifts 3-4
- I only drive the MCS on wknds, but it seems to be getting worse (last night it would not pop into 4th at all on it's own, I had to use the paddle shifters)
Question, how important is the ATF fluid level?
Any possibility it contributes to the problem? I ask b/c, when changing the ATF, as soon as I pulled the plug I got about 1qt flowing out over the standpipe. Once I pulled the pipe I got another qt (I had the front up on ramps trying to 'tilt' the pan to get more fluid). Getting 2qts out I just automatically refilled with 2qts. I saw the fluid check procedure but it seemed a bit dubious at the time...
And this next part - at the time it seemed like a good idea but now I'm not so sure. With the ATF drained and the MCS on ramps I started the car (foot on brake) and shifted through all the gears. This was done in attempt to get as much fluid out as possible (and it did cause abt another 1/4 Qt to drain). Wondering if this screwed up the Valve Body??
Anyway, @ RevMax you can probably expect a call from me in the next coming weeks to order the valve body.
Also, can anyone recommend a Trans Shop in the Chicago area? I'm half tempted to do the job myself. But frankly, having to unbolt / pull the engine has me a bit scared!
Though, I'd like a second opinion before going down this moderately expensive road. (eyeckr, GreenR53, KB30, RevMax, others pls comment)
- @ 50k was hard downshifting 3-2 & 2-1
- I replaced the ATF (using Mobil 3309) three times, 2 qts at a time
- fluid replacement helped with the hard down shifts, but now flairs in upshifts 3-4
- I only drive the MCS on wknds, but it seems to be getting worse (last night it would not pop into 4th at all on it's own, I had to use the paddle shifters)
Question, how important is the ATF fluid level?
Any possibility it contributes to the problem? I ask b/c, when changing the ATF, as soon as I pulled the plug I got about 1qt flowing out over the standpipe. Once I pulled the pipe I got another qt (I had the front up on ramps trying to 'tilt' the pan to get more fluid). Getting 2qts out I just automatically refilled with 2qts. I saw the fluid check procedure but it seemed a bit dubious at the time...
And this next part - at the time it seemed like a good idea but now I'm not so sure. With the ATF drained and the MCS on ramps I started the car (foot on brake) and shifted through all the gears. This was done in attempt to get as much fluid out as possible (and it did cause abt another 1/4 Qt to drain). Wondering if this screwed up the Valve Body??
Anyway, @ RevMax you can probably expect a call from me in the next coming weeks to order the valve body.
Also, can anyone recommend a Trans Shop in the Chicago area? I'm half tempted to do the job myself. But frankly, having to unbolt / pull the engine has me a bit scared!
#282
I was also experiencing similar symptoms with rough shifting so I thought I had a valve body problem as well. Well my harmnic balancer broke while driving on the freeway. I got stuck and needed a tow. I replaced the harmonic balancer with the super damper and to my surprise the rough shifting went away. I figure that then the harmonic balancer started to deteriorate that it affected somehow other peripherals like controls to the shifting logic.
#283
All, I wanted to give an update here.
To recap, a year ago I bought a used '06 MCS with 44k miles on it. Shortly after purchasing (maybe around 50k miles) it began having hard down shifts in 3>2 and 2>1. So at 60k miles I did an ATF change three times (2qt at a time). Hard downshifts stopped completely but it then started 'flaring' from 3>4 - all other gears / shifts were fine, just 3>4 would miss. (is flaring the correct term for this - it would completely miss the gear and go into neutral)
As I stated previously, when I did the ATF change I got about 2qts out each time so I simply refilled with 2qts (Mobil 3309). Well, in a last ditch effort (before doing the valve body job) I checked the ATF fluid level as per the procedure. The battery was dead in my thermo probe so I guesstimated the tranny temp at 45C / 110F by touch. When I pulled the "inspection plug" out I got exactly 16 oz / half Qt ATF overflowing the standpipe. Viola - flaring in 3>4 is cured!! I've been driving it 2wks now and has not flared once.
But... (there is always a phucking but), new symptom now - it 'stutters' upshifting 2>3. It's not bad - I could live with it. Seems better when cold. I probably could trade it in and dealer would never know till it was too late.
Well, I tinkered with it again - noting that it's better when cold I'm wondering if it still has too much fluid, maybe heats up expanding and causing the stuttering? So, the battery is still dead in my thermal probe but I decided to check the ATF level again tonight with the tranny hotter (guessing 55C / 130F this time). I got another ~3oz ATF to drain out. I'll drive it for another 2wks and report back - but could the ATF level really be that critical?? Low ATF is one thing - but too much ATF??
@ GreenR53, thanks again for the advise.
@ Revmax, thanks for the recommendation - I actually pass by that place every day on my way to work! If this thing starts acting up again I'll stop in and tell them you recommended them.
fingers crossed...
-joe
To recap, a year ago I bought a used '06 MCS with 44k miles on it. Shortly after purchasing (maybe around 50k miles) it began having hard down shifts in 3>2 and 2>1. So at 60k miles I did an ATF change three times (2qt at a time). Hard downshifts stopped completely but it then started 'flaring' from 3>4 - all other gears / shifts were fine, just 3>4 would miss. (is flaring the correct term for this - it would completely miss the gear and go into neutral)
As I stated previously, when I did the ATF change I got about 2qts out each time so I simply refilled with 2qts (Mobil 3309). Well, in a last ditch effort (before doing the valve body job) I checked the ATF fluid level as per the procedure. The battery was dead in my thermo probe so I guesstimated the tranny temp at 45C / 110F by touch. When I pulled the "inspection plug" out I got exactly 16 oz / half Qt ATF overflowing the standpipe. Viola - flaring in 3>4 is cured!! I've been driving it 2wks now and has not flared once.
But... (there is always a phucking but), new symptom now - it 'stutters' upshifting 2>3. It's not bad - I could live with it. Seems better when cold. I probably could trade it in and dealer would never know till it was too late.
Well, I tinkered with it again - noting that it's better when cold I'm wondering if it still has too much fluid, maybe heats up expanding and causing the stuttering? So, the battery is still dead in my thermal probe but I decided to check the ATF level again tonight with the tranny hotter (guessing 55C / 130F this time). I got another ~3oz ATF to drain out. I'll drive it for another 2wks and report back - but could the ATF level really be that critical?? Low ATF is one thing - but too much ATF??
@ GreenR53, thanks again for the advise.
@ Revmax, thanks for the recommendation - I actually pass by that place every day on my way to work! If this thing starts acting up again I'll stop in and tell them you recommended them.
fingers crossed...
-joe
#284
I'm really anxious to hear the latest with your kart because I've been having the same random upflairs from 3rd to 4th in mine. My baby kart is driven daily.
I used to have issues going from 2nd to 3rd but after I had my spark plugs and wires changed out in the past couple months, that's been okay. (My 3rd wire cap was cracked completely though I don't believe it caused the gear issues :/).
Sent from my SCH-I535 using NAMotoring
I used to have issues going from 2nd to 3rd but after I had my spark plugs and wires changed out in the past couple months, that's been okay. (My 3rd wire cap was cracked completely though I don't believe it caused the gear issues :/).
Sent from my SCH-I535 using NAMotoring
#285
selector lever
Hi,
I just put in a new selector lever for my 2005 cooper S automatic, I was away on vacation and forgot how the reverse behaved, I have a dumb question, should you be able to pull the selector lever from reverse to neutral while moving in reverse or should the lever be locked? I can actually pull the lever to neutral and drive without my foot on the brake but I can't put it back into reverse unless I squeeze the handle on the selector lever. I looked at the grooves the selector lever moves over and it appears that this could be by design? also moving from drive to neutral and foot off the brake does lock it until you put foot on the brake again.
so to summarize, R -> N -> D pull lever without squeezing lever
D -> N locks with foot off brake (normal)
N -> R must squeeze lever to put into R (looked at grooves under the lever (removed the plastic circle to observe different positions) and lever stick is prevented from going into reverse unless handle is squeezed to raise lever stick.
Thanks
Anthony
I just put in a new selector lever for my 2005 cooper S automatic, I was away on vacation and forgot how the reverse behaved, I have a dumb question, should you be able to pull the selector lever from reverse to neutral while moving in reverse or should the lever be locked? I can actually pull the lever to neutral and drive without my foot on the brake but I can't put it back into reverse unless I squeeze the handle on the selector lever. I looked at the grooves the selector lever moves over and it appears that this could be by design? also moving from drive to neutral and foot off the brake does lock it until you put foot on the brake again.
so to summarize, R -> N -> D pull lever without squeezing lever
D -> N locks with foot off brake (normal)
N -> R must squeeze lever to put into R (looked at grooves under the lever (removed the plastic circle to observe different positions) and lever stick is prevented from going into reverse unless handle is squeezed to raise lever stick.
Thanks
Anthony
Last edited by a2coopers; 09-17-2013 at 04:46 AM. Reason: spelling
#286
#287
I am also having transmission problems with my 05 MCSa :-( at 72,000 miles. It is not an abused car either. I guess she will be getting a new transmission. I don't live near a dealer or a trusted shop so she just did a 300 mile round trip to be diagnosed. It'll be another trip to get it replaced. I got lost trying to read through all of these posts. Any short and sweet advice on what to do until then, or what to do to get more mileage out of replacement? Is there a newer model or alt replacement available?
#289
cliff notes
I am also having transmission problems with my 05 MCSa :-( at 72,000 miles. It is not an abused car either. I guess she will be getting a new transmission. I don't live near a dealer or a trusted shop so she just did a 300 mile round trip to be diagnosed. It'll be another trip to get it replaced. I got lost trying to read through all of these posts. Any short and sweet advice on what to do until then, or what to do to get more mileage out of replacement? Is there a newer model or alt replacement available?
The replacement valve bodies from RevMax are upgrades.
#290
Wait! if you are having rough shifts in the low gears when the car is hot then you likely only need a $1500 valve body replacement instead of $5k of reman tranny. If you are having the car go into neutral at 4th gear then you likely need a new tranny.
The replacement valve bodies from RevMax are upgrades.
#291
#292
How would one know if a valve body replacement is needed instead over full transmission (besides the rough shifts)?
Those are the issues I'm having right now. My car just reached 70k and I've been having issues for the past maybe 10k.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using NAMotoring
Those are the issues I'm having right now. My car just reached 70k and I've been having issues for the past maybe 10k.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using NAMotoring
#293
Sent from my SCH-I535 using NAMotoring
#294
That is the classic symptom of a failing valve body. You can change the fluid which may help a little but it is expensive and a pain or go ahead and get a shop to put in a Rev Max valve body.
#295
i had to reread a couple posts but you mentioned if going into neutral from 4th gear, then transmission needs to be replaced. in addition to the hard shifts that i've been having, i also have issues when my car is trying to shift into 4th (slightly going uphill or downhill), it'll just rev really high before shifting back down or up. depending on how long i've been driving around for, depends on how hard it shifts when that happens. what can you tell me about that??
Last edited by minted-rose; 10-04-2013 at 10:01 AM.
#296
#298
$1100 for a Valve Body rebuild sounds fair?
ah ok. thanks for your expertise. much appreciated.
i had to reread a couple posts but you mentioned if going into neutral from 4th gear, then transmission needs to be replaced. in addition to the hard shifts that i've been having, i also have issues when my car is trying to shift into 4th (slightly going uphill or downhill), it'll just rev really high before shifting back down or up. depending on how long i've been driving around for, depends on how hard it shifts when that happens. what can you tell me about that??
i had to reread a couple posts but you mentioned if going into neutral from 4th gear, then transmission needs to be replaced. in addition to the hard shifts that i've been having, i also have issues when my car is trying to shift into 4th (slightly going uphill or downhill), it'll just rev really high before shifting back down or up. depending on how long i've been driving around for, depends on how hard it shifts when that happens. what can you tell me about that??
I just wanted to give an update on my Mini. I'm having the exact same problems as Minted - hard downshifting and missing 4th when upshifting. I have gotten great improvements when adjusting the ATF fluid to the proper level. Too much fluid and it would miss 4th gear, too little and I got the hard downshifting. Somewhere in the middle is (an almost) happy medium. I can't say it's perfect, but it's 70% better. I could almost sell the car as is now and new buyer wouldn't notice during a test drive - but I don't want to be 'that guy'.
Note that I got a quote from a local tranny shop to rebuild my Valve Body for $1100 - said he's down 5 or 6 of them already ( a couple Mini's and a few VW's). And he gives an 18mth / 18k warranty - I think I might get this done next month...
#299
I just wanted to give an update on my Mini. I'm having the exact same problems as Minted - hard downshifting and missing 4th when upshifting. I have gotten great improvements when adjusting the ATF fluid to the proper level. Too much fluid and it would miss 4th gear, too little and I got the hard downshifting. Somewhere in the middle is (an almost) happy medium. I can't say it's perfect, but it's 70% better. I could almost sell the car as is now and new buyer wouldn't notice during a test drive - but I don't want to be 'that guy'.
Note that I got a quote from a local tranny shop to rebuild my Valve Body for $1100 - said he's down 5 or 6 of them already ( a couple Mini's and a few VW's). And he gives an 18mth / 18k warranty - I think I might get this done next month...
Sent from my SCH-I535 using NAMotoring
#300
The transmission shop I called said they've worked on a lot of BMWs and Hondas but never really any MINIs. I don't know what to say or think about that. I'm just really irritated at the moment about all of this. :/
Sent from my SCH-I535 using NAMotoring
Sent from my SCH-I535 using NAMotoring
Last edited by minted-rose; 10-10-2013 at 10:52 AM.