MCSA - Aisin 6 Speed AUTOMATIC, failed at 80K?
#326
Right now, I just crossed over 55xxx miles. Symptoms aren't bad, if I'm honest. The GF and I always use the paddles to dictate the shift point and that seems to be helping. The problem is pretty obvious when I, or the car, switch from 4th to 3rd. It's like it slams it into 3rd very abruptly. To get it to go smooth, I have to give a tiny bit of gas. Shifting up from 2nd to 3rd to 4th, it seems to slip into neutral mid-shift, almost like it can't find the next gear - although this is very rare - I maybe see this once every 2-3 months.
Edit: forgot to mention about the filling - I'm pretty clumsy when it comes to fluids... actually, we'll say I'm pretty good at spilling so keeping track of what's coming out is a tall order. The thought of really having to be careful about overfilling is such a foreign concept to me... I mean, I can't think of a situation where too much lube is bad.........
Edit: forgot to mention about the filling - I'm pretty clumsy when it comes to fluids... actually, we'll say I'm pretty good at spilling so keeping track of what's coming out is a tall order. The thought of really having to be careful about overfilling is such a foreign concept to me... I mean, I can't think of a situation where too much lube is bad.........
#330
Has anyone had any luck with changing the valve body or what kind of mileage have he/she gotten out of said change.
I have the same problem on my 06 MCSa with 92,XXX miles on it. Looks like the transmission had been changed, there is orange gasket maker between the motor block and the transmission housing. So I'm not sure what exactly has been done. The previous owner was a little shady, which should have threw up red flags but I was too excited about the deal.
I have performed a flush, used Lucas Semi-Synthetic Multi-Vehicle trans fluid. Says on the back that it meets the JWS 3309 requirements.
Worked great for about 30 miles and then back to same thing.
I'm going to perform another flush with same fluid and change the filter and gasket. Only have been able to put maybe 200 miles on it since last flush due to the slipping.
Have been looking at the possibility of changing the valve body, but since I live in Wyoming I have limit resources on getting one.
I'm going to have to order one online, can anyone suggest a good online retailer or do I trust eBay.
I have the same problem on my 06 MCSa with 92,XXX miles on it. Looks like the transmission had been changed, there is orange gasket maker between the motor block and the transmission housing. So I'm not sure what exactly has been done. The previous owner was a little shady, which should have threw up red flags but I was too excited about the deal.
I have performed a flush, used Lucas Semi-Synthetic Multi-Vehicle trans fluid. Says on the back that it meets the JWS 3309 requirements.
Worked great for about 30 miles and then back to same thing.
I'm going to perform another flush with same fluid and change the filter and gasket. Only have been able to put maybe 200 miles on it since last flush due to the slipping.
Have been looking at the possibility of changing the valve body, but since I live in Wyoming I have limit resources on getting one.
I'm going to have to order one online, can anyone suggest a good online retailer or do I trust eBay.
#331
Has anyone had any luck with changing the valve body or what kind of mileage have he/she gotten out of said change.
I have the same problem on my 06 MCSa with 92,XXX miles on it. Looks like the transmission had been changed, there is orange gasket maker between the motor block and the transmission housing. So I'm not sure what exactly has been done. The previous owner was a little shady, which should have threw up red flags but I was too excited about the deal.
I have performed a flush, used Lucas Semi-Synthetic Multi-Vehicle trans fluid. Says on the back that it meets the JWS 3309 requirements.
Worked great for about 30 miles and then back to same thing.
I'm going to perform another flush with same fluid and change the filter and gasket. Only have been able to put maybe 200 miles on it since last flush due to the slipping.
Have been looking at the possibility of changing the valve body, but since I live in Wyoming I have limit resources on getting one.
I'm going to have to order one online, can anyone suggest a good online retailer or do I trust eBay.
I have the same problem on my 06 MCSa with 92,XXX miles on it. Looks like the transmission had been changed, there is orange gasket maker between the motor block and the transmission housing. So I'm not sure what exactly has been done. The previous owner was a little shady, which should have threw up red flags but I was too excited about the deal.
I have performed a flush, used Lucas Semi-Synthetic Multi-Vehicle trans fluid. Says on the back that it meets the JWS 3309 requirements.
Worked great for about 30 miles and then back to same thing.
I'm going to perform another flush with same fluid and change the filter and gasket. Only have been able to put maybe 200 miles on it since last flush due to the slipping.
Have been looking at the possibility of changing the valve body, but since I live in Wyoming I have limit resources on getting one.
I'm going to have to order one online, can anyone suggest a good online retailer or do I trust eBay.
#332
I wouldn't think so, I would think that since it looks like someone put a different transmission in, it wouldn't be the original fluid. The fluid I got out the of the first flush was pretty dark, maybe a little burnt but I could have done that when I tried to get home from Denver, CO (400 miles away). Only made it 30 miles from where I got it.
I didn't see any metal in the fluid. Put it through a paint strainer. I really can't afford a new/rebuilt transmission right now, so I'm looking and hoping for a cheaper easier fix, even if it doesn't last forever.
I didn't see any metal in the fluid. Put it through a paint strainer. I really can't afford a new/rebuilt transmission right now, so I'm looking and hoping for a cheaper easier fix, even if it doesn't last forever.
#333
Has this happened to anyone after the valve body replacement?
My car is 2005 MCS Auto and did not change the trans fluid until 100K.
My car started having issues with 3rd gear slip/rough shift only when the trans got hot after some driving. I ordered a refurbished valve body via RevMaxx and swapped it out this weekend. While I was changing out the valve body, I ran into a slight problem. As you could see from the pictures, the second solenoid from the left of the valve body (near the oil filter) electric connector was positioned differently than the OEM. Because of this, it prevented oil filter from sitting flushed to the valve body. I used a magnet to remove the locking-pin that holds the solenoid in place and replaced it with the solenoid from my old valve body for now. I am not having anymore issues with the 3rd gear slippage (cold or hot), but having rough gear/slight slippage change from 1st-2nd (Significantly improved after putting some miles on the car), rough getting into "D"rive and "R"everse mode. And my "Service Engine Lights" came on throwing "Transmission Control Module (Mil Request) and Torque Converter Circuit Performance/Stuck Off codes after driving for 50 miles. I cleared the light but it returned after another 40 miles of driving.
My car is 2005 MCS Auto and did not change the trans fluid until 100K.
My car started having issues with 3rd gear slip/rough shift only when the trans got hot after some driving. I ordered a refurbished valve body via RevMaxx and swapped it out this weekend. While I was changing out the valve body, I ran into a slight problem. As you could see from the pictures, the second solenoid from the left of the valve body (near the oil filter) electric connector was positioned differently than the OEM. Because of this, it prevented oil filter from sitting flushed to the valve body. I used a magnet to remove the locking-pin that holds the solenoid in place and replaced it with the solenoid from my old valve body for now. I am not having anymore issues with the 3rd gear slippage (cold or hot), but having rough gear/slight slippage change from 1st-2nd (Significantly improved after putting some miles on the car), rough getting into "D"rive and "R"everse mode. And my "Service Engine Lights" came on throwing "Transmission Control Module (Mil Request) and Torque Converter Circuit Performance/Stuck Off codes after driving for 50 miles. I cleared the light but it returned after another 40 miles of driving.
#334
Excellent photos!
So because of the lifetime transmission, cars serviced by Mini Dealers will usually never be serviced until 100k ?
So because of the lifetime transmission, cars serviced by Mini Dealers will usually never be serviced until 100k ?
Has this happened to anyone after the valve body replacement?
My car is 2005 MCS Auto and did not change the trans fluid until 100K.
My car started having issues with 3rd gear slip/rough shift only when the trans got hot after some driving. I ordered a refurbished valve body via RevMaxx and swapped it out this weekend. While I was changing out the valve body, I ran into a slight problem. As you could see from the pictures, the second solenoid from the left of the valve body (near the oil filter) electric connector was positioned differently than the OEM. Because of this, it prevented oil filter from sitting flushed to the valve body. I used a magnet to remove the locking-pin that holds the solenoid in place and replaced it with the solenoid from my old valve body for now. I am not having anymore issues with the 3rd gear slippage (cold or hot), but having rough gear/slight slippage change from 1st-2nd (Significantly improved after putting some miles on the car), rough getting into "D"rive and "R"everse mode. And my "Service Engine Lights" came on throwing "Transmission Control Module (Mil Request) and Torque Converter Circuit Performance/Stuck Off codes after driving for 50 miles. I cleared the light but it returned after another 40 miles of driving.
My car is 2005 MCS Auto and did not change the trans fluid until 100K.
My car started having issues with 3rd gear slip/rough shift only when the trans got hot after some driving. I ordered a refurbished valve body via RevMaxx and swapped it out this weekend. While I was changing out the valve body, I ran into a slight problem. As you could see from the pictures, the second solenoid from the left of the valve body (near the oil filter) electric connector was positioned differently than the OEM. Because of this, it prevented oil filter from sitting flushed to the valve body. I used a magnet to remove the locking-pin that holds the solenoid in place and replaced it with the solenoid from my old valve body for now. I am not having anymore issues with the 3rd gear slippage (cold or hot), but having rough gear/slight slippage change from 1st-2nd (Significantly improved after putting some miles on the car), rough getting into "D"rive and "R"everse mode. And my "Service Engine Lights" came on throwing "Transmission Control Module (Mil Request) and Torque Converter Circuit Performance/Stuck Off codes after driving for 50 miles. I cleared the light but it returned after another 40 miles of driving.
#336
#338
Well I performed another flush. Drove my car 15 miles and lost all gears but 5th and kind of 2nd. From a stop, it goes straight to 2nd and slips like crazy then it shifts to 5th and stays.
I'm might be just totally frustrated but I don't see how another flush could fix it.
The "local" transmission shop will not touch it, so how hard is it to change the valve body?
I'm might be just totally frustrated but I don't see how another flush could fix it.
The "local" transmission shop will not touch it, so how hard is it to change the valve body?
#340
I had non-mini auto transmission rebuilt in Northern California with excellent results.
A true independant transmission shop may do rebuilds, not just buy a rebuilt and install it.
A true independant transmission shop may do rebuilds, not just buy a rebuilt and install it.
Well I performed another flush. Drove my car 15 miles and lost all gears but 5th and kind of 2nd. From a stop, it goes straight to 2nd and slips like crazy then it shifts to 5th and stays.
I'm might be just totally frustrated but I don't see how another flush could fix it.
The "local" transmission shop will not touch it, so how hard is it to change the valve body?
I'm might be just totally frustrated but I don't see how another flush could fix it.
The "local" transmission shop will not touch it, so how hard is it to change the valve body?
#341
Good for you?
The Aisin Warner transmissions in these cars arent easy to get parts for not to mention rebuilding them is difficult. Most local shops and some commercial chains want nothing to do with these transmissions just because of the fear of it may come back to them.
#343
Well Im sorry to hear about your current situation Its certainly not a cheap fix. What are the details with the car? year ? mileage? do you have a loan on it?
The reason I ask is Aisin's are not cheap neither is the labor to install them. I recommend OEM re-manufactured with a professional install to get a warranty on the work
And I strongly strongly discourage just getting any salvage yard transmission as it could put you right back in the same position.
If your serious about getting it fixed I would contact Way Motor Works in Atlanta to source an either rebuilt or a good salvage transmission from Way.
The reason I ask is Aisin's are not cheap neither is the labor to install them. I recommend OEM re-manufactured with a professional install to get a warranty on the work
And I strongly strongly discourage just getting any salvage yard transmission as it could put you right back in the same position.
If your serious about getting it fixed I would contact Way Motor Works in Atlanta to source an either rebuilt or a good salvage transmission from Way.
#344
Well I performed another flush. Drove my car 15 miles and lost all gears but 5th and kind of 2nd. From a stop, it goes straight to 2nd and slips like crazy then it shifts to 5th and stays.
I'm might be just totally frustrated but I don't see how another flush could fix it.
The "local" transmission shop will not touch it, so how hard is it to change the valve body?
I'm might be just totally frustrated but I don't see how another flush could fix it.
The "local" transmission shop will not touch it, so how hard is it to change the valve body?
Dave
#345
#346
How in the hell do you check the fluid level accurately? I had the car up on jack stands, ran it up to temp and ran through the gears. It made more of a mess then anything. Someone mentioned using a OBD connection to check the levels, but I have not found one that mentions trans temp and mine doesn't.
This just isn't making any since. It drives perfect when cold but then it gets warmed up; slips, misses, slams and causes utter chaos. Just doesn't act like any other transmission going out that I have driven, and I have had quite a few go out on me.
This just isn't making any since. It drives perfect when cold but then it gets warmed up; slips, misses, slams and causes utter chaos. Just doesn't act like any other transmission going out that I have driven, and I have had quite a few go out on me.
#347
How in the hell do you check the fluid level accurately? I had the car up on jack stands, ran it up to temp and ran through the gears. It made more of a mess then anything. Someone mentioned using a OBD connection to check the levels, but I have not found one that mentions trans temp and mine doesn't.
This just isn't making any since. It drives perfect when cold but then it gets warmed up; slips, misses, slams and causes utter chaos. Just doesn't act like any other transmission going out that I have driven, and I have had quite a few go out on me.
This just isn't making any since. It drives perfect when cold but then it gets warmed up; slips, misses, slams and causes utter chaos. Just doesn't act like any other transmission going out that I have driven, and I have had quite a few go out on me.
#348
How in the hell do you check the fluid level accurately? I had the car up on jack stands, ran it up to temp and ran through the gears. It made more of a mess then anything. Someone mentioned using a OBD connection to check the levels, but I have not found one that mentions trans temp and mine doesn't.
This just isn't making any since. It drives perfect when cold but then it gets warmed up; slips, misses, slams and causes utter chaos. Just doesn't act like any other transmission going out that I have driven, and I have had quite a few go out on me.
This just isn't making any since. It drives perfect when cold but then it gets warmed up; slips, misses, slams and causes utter chaos. Just doesn't act like any other transmission going out that I have driven, and I have had quite a few go out on me.
#349
My Mini is now fixed!
Initial symptom - flaring/slip shifting into 3rd gear once trans got hot.
1st attempt to fix the problem - replaced trans fluid
Result - better, but the flaring/slip was still there.
2nd attempt to fix the problem - Replaced the old valve body (VB) with the VB I purchased from RevMaxx and filled the trans using Royal Purple ATF
Result - 3rd gear slip/flaring was gone, but noticed hard shift (Clunk)/delay going from 1st to 2nd, and from 2nd to 1st gear COLD or HOT. When the trans was really cold however, car wouldnt even go into the 1st gear. Additionally, "Check Engine Sign" appeared while test driving the car after the VB install. (Car was driving really rough, hard shift, clunking..etc )
My initial reaction - 'Fuq!'
3rd attempt to fix the problem - Took the car to a local Mini dealer to get the TCM reset and to check the trans fluid level. I was really concerned witht the proper fluid level because my driveway is not completely surfaced
Result - resetting the TCM alone made no difference. My car was still acting crazy. When the Mini technician checked my fluid level however, he confirmed that it was VERY low! He refilled the trans/ then reset the TCM...and the car is now running smooth as ever!!
Three things -
1 - Replacing the VB is really not that difficult to do it at home.
2 - Get your VB from RevMaxx
3 - PROPER trans level is VERY important!!! Spend some time getting it right. (Fill it until the trans fluid emerges out of the drain hole. Put the drain bolt back on and warm up the car. Turn off the car and remove the drain bolt. Add more fluid until it emerges out of the hole) If you remove the drain plug and nothing comes out, that mean you are low on trans fluid.
Initial symptom - flaring/slip shifting into 3rd gear once trans got hot.
1st attempt to fix the problem - replaced trans fluid
Result - better, but the flaring/slip was still there.
2nd attempt to fix the problem - Replaced the old valve body (VB) with the VB I purchased from RevMaxx and filled the trans using Royal Purple ATF
Result - 3rd gear slip/flaring was gone, but noticed hard shift (Clunk)/delay going from 1st to 2nd, and from 2nd to 1st gear COLD or HOT. When the trans was really cold however, car wouldnt even go into the 1st gear. Additionally, "Check Engine Sign" appeared while test driving the car after the VB install. (Car was driving really rough, hard shift, clunking..etc )
My initial reaction - 'Fuq!'
3rd attempt to fix the problem - Took the car to a local Mini dealer to get the TCM reset and to check the trans fluid level. I was really concerned witht the proper fluid level because my driveway is not completely surfaced
Result - resetting the TCM alone made no difference. My car was still acting crazy. When the Mini technician checked my fluid level however, he confirmed that it was VERY low! He refilled the trans/ then reset the TCM...and the car is now running smooth as ever!!
Three things -
1 - Replacing the VB is really not that difficult to do it at home.
2 - Get your VB from RevMaxx
3 - PROPER trans level is VERY important!!! Spend some time getting it right. (Fill it until the trans fluid emerges out of the drain hole. Put the drain bolt back on and warm up the car. Turn off the car and remove the drain bolt. Add more fluid until it emerges out of the hole) If you remove the drain plug and nothing comes out, that mean you are low on trans fluid.
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jvidamins (08-18-2020)
#350
Just registered here because my 2006 R53 49000 miles is experiencing the same problems. Given the issues with this trans and issues I had on another trans on a different car, I think I am going to be leaning towards manual trannies in the future.
Interestingly, this was a minor problem, but became much worse when I did a flush. I flushed at 30k, and just did a second flush at 49k. The problem got much worse after this latest flush.
Anyway, I'll be ordering a reman VB from RevMax and installing it shortly. Hopefully I caught it early enough that I can still get some good life out of the rest of the trans.
BTW, here's how you do a proper flush and fill. Good write up here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...uid_Change.htm
I also recommend that you replace those damn torx bolts on the trans pan with some standard hex head bolts. The first time I dropped my pan I had to hacksaw the torx bolt off because it was frozen in place (over torqued?), stripped (by me), and impossible to get leverage on (even after moving the subframe). Take the torx bolt with you to Home Depot and you should find an exact match.
Interestingly, this was a minor problem, but became much worse when I did a flush. I flushed at 30k, and just did a second flush at 49k. The problem got much worse after this latest flush.
Anyway, I'll be ordering a reman VB from RevMax and installing it shortly. Hopefully I caught it early enough that I can still get some good life out of the rest of the trans.
BTW, here's how you do a proper flush and fill. Good write up here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...uid_Change.htm
I also recommend that you replace those damn torx bolts on the trans pan with some standard hex head bolts. The first time I dropped my pan I had to hacksaw the torx bolt off because it was frozen in place (over torqued?), stripped (by me), and impossible to get leverage on (even after moving the subframe). Take the torx bolt with you to Home Depot and you should find an exact match.
Last edited by SingleMalt; 03-21-2014 at 08:47 PM.