How do you reset the transmission adaption?

 

You can reset adaptations either via the cluster or just removing both battery cables and touching them together discharging the electrical system.

 

How do you do it from the cluster? I am having very minimal issues (might be in my head) and wanted to see if a reset changes anything..

 

Google Mini R53 ecu reset

 

ok thanks

 

The correct way to reset adaptions for your tranny is to use a programer. You can use the BMW GT1 or the NCS expert. There is a tranny adaption reset. That is the only way to reset it.

 

Thats what I thought, ok thanks ill look into it!

 

I've been experiencing the hard shift up and down for almost 8 months now, actually since i bought the car. Looking to do the VB in the next few weeks or so. Today however I experience a totally different symptoms. I was driving the car and it was shifting hard and then it stalled. the car will start and the engine is running but the transmission won't engage going from p to d or r, none worked. I let it sit for 20 minutes and it finally engaged. Now I am afraid to drive the car. Should I still plan for a VB replacement or this issue got worse. Any feedback is appreciated.

 

I think you are beyond a valve body replacement. Maybe you can get a low mile transmission at a wrecking yard.

 

Thanks for the reply.

How can someone find a reliable used AT for these cars especially that mine failed and is acting up at 75K (low miles) and any used replacement might end up with someone else's old headache.

I've driven this car for a while and it was always acting up after the 15-20 minutes drive, the usual hard shift between 2-3. Yesterday's problem was a first and a totally different experience. At first and after the usual 15 min drive it started jerking between 2-3 gear and the transmission stopped engaging a little after. The car stalled (engine run but AT won't engage) and I tried a few times to have the transmission engage by going back and forth between P, N and D but it didn't (shift stick mechanism was fine). Luckily I was only a 5 minutes drive from my house. I shut the engine off, waited for 20 minutes, started the car and shifted to D and finally it engaged. I drove it home and that was it for the night. This morning I started the car, it shifted and engaged fine, I drove it around the block for about 10 minutes and the gears were shifting fine. I did however hear a strange whining/hissing sound coming from under the driver seat! The hissing sound was noticeable when driving and when the car is at idle parked while engine running. I still have hope that this is related to VB and a replacement might fix the problem.

OBD scan show error ZKE Central boy electronics BC1(Redesign)

 

I was just about ask about this same issue. I just bought an 06 mini s with automatic transmission. It has the same problem with the transmission acting like it does not have any gears. No park, drive or reverse. Just acts like it's in neutral. I am looking for any information. I have an 03 Mini Cooper S, with the manual transmission. I had some idiot back down my street and total my 03 when he slammed into it. �� I bought this 06 automatic with a bad tranny, I am thinking of attempting to convert it to a manual using my 03 as a doner car.

 

Mhnd, we had similar issues with our 05 MCS. We eventually decided to try replacing the VBs after we found a local repair shop that quoted us a very reasonable price with a year warranty. After 2 months, we started having issues. The shop took care of it and after 7 months now, we are very happy campers.

All the best

 

When you had the issue, did the shift stick act as if it in Neutral even when you moved it from park to D, meaning it won't engage the transmission. I've been doing a few tests and finally found out that when the shift stick act as neutral, turning the engine off and back on will temporarily fix the problem. But then it might happen again !


I am wondering if this is a safety fall back to prevent further damage to transmission. Disengaging the transmission when hard shift begins! Any feedback on this?

 

The Mini is my wife's car. So I've never experienced the neutral while in "D" myself. But I recall my wife mentioning something to that effect. This is what spurred us to resolve the issue as soon as possible. We deemed it too dangerous for my wife to ferry our son around with the car in that condition. Again, I think we were very fortunate to have found such an inexpensive solution. Much cheaper than any quoted on the internet.

Best of luck with your repairs

 

Thanks

 

I scanned the car with schawben tool and I got an error code p1682 related to throttle body. I am not sure if this is the reason why the car is going into limp mode when throttle is high to prevent damage. I know I still have to deal with the VB but I am hoping that it's not anything more complicated in the transmission. Can someone tell me if they have any experience with this code and going into limp mode. I search for this code but I couldn't find definite info/answer about the problem.

 

I think this is the wrong thread to post about the timing chain. There are actually few threads for that same issue with people looking for a resolution. I can rebuild your engine if you run out of options too. Im in philly pa.

 

Anyone!

 

Anyone in NYC area can recommend a shop to do the VB ?

 

.

 

After reviewing all the Aisin Transmission issues and following some advice, Mine still has issues. see my process below.
1. when it is cold, transmission shifts fine.
2. After warm up, slips 1-2, and 2-3.
3. Have changed oil multiple times and adaptation.
4. Research that it might be valve body issue?
5. ordered a re-manufactured valve body from Revmax.
6. installed by Brracing in Palo alto. (great shop)
7. with new vale body, even when it is cold, slips 1-2 and 2-3, If slowly accelerate, able to shift, but not smooth?
8. EP code on dash on re-mauf. valve body. I did not have that code before.
9. Called Revmax, (Frank from Revmax said it happens, they only test the valve body and not re-build?) He said he would send solenoid to test, never received. He blamed it on the torque converter?
10. Car is sitting in the garage, seems like my re-manuf. valve body is worst than my original? wasted 700 + 1000 for the job?
11. I am thinking about re-building my original valve body and replace all the solenoids, Brracing recommend this approach, since he has success with this method.
12. Wanted to get some input before i make a decision. any comment would be appreciated, My wife like to keep the car, it is in great shape, 70,000 miles.

Thanks
Frank Sheng

 

buy another used transmission with low miles from ebay or car-part.com
installation is fairly straight forward.

slipping into other gears is either a VB or transmission. since you replaced the VB, then it is clutch packs. when you remove the VB, there should be a slight play in these clutch packs.

check this series of this guy...this is part 1 of x.

 

I am new to this board, I did some research on this as the dealer does not have a clue or does mini of america, I reserched blogs and spoke with a transmission person in calfornia told him what it was doing on shifting. What happens is it shifts god when cold before it warms up then all goes south from there, . also contacted Rev Max they are in Charlotte NC and he said the same thing. The valve valve body has electric shift solonids, each one has o rings that seal them, when the trans fluid heats up the fluid leaks past the o rings giving a crappy shift, example hard shift going up through the gears and sometimes hard shift down shifting. mini is not the only one that has this , ford, chevy and some others. Re max rebuilds them 699.00 with a 350 core deposit. You can fool the computer in the car if you are good enough but it takes practice so you dont get to bad of a shift but this is not the fix

 

Classic symptoms of a bad valve body. I replaced the VB about 5 years ago, didn't have good shifting with the replacement so replaced it a second time and it has been good ever since.
RevMax is not the only rebuilder out there.

 

Hey all, my fears of owning an automatic have come to fruition, and way sooner than I expected. Got a 2009 Clubman S with the dreaded TF-60-SN. The car developed a shift flare from 3-4, sometimes not engaging long enough for the car to start slowing traffic down behind me. Sometimes it would finally find 4th and slam into it. Not knowing much about valve bodies, I decided to replace the shift solenoids. Well, that didn't fix it, as some pin fell out and a little valve was found at hte bottom of the pan. Anyway, I went to a salvage yard and picked up a tranny with only 77k miles on it. With a smile on my face, I brought it home and installed it in the car along with a new filter and the Toyota IV fluild.

For about 100miles, everything was great. Shifted smoothly, and confidently in all gears. Then I lost traction pulling away at a light on some wet pavement and my 3-4 flare came back. It's not as bad as the other tranny, but definitely there every time in D. If I turn on Sport mode, the flare is hardly noticeable, but still there (very slightly). Shifting manually, you can much better avoid the flare by letting off the gas, but if you're trying to accelerate quickly, it flares and slams into 4th.

I'm perplexed: two trannies out of two different cars, two different year models (2008 and 2009), and the new one has half the mileage. How can they have the exact identical problem??? I did clear the adaptations, both with my Creator scan tool and with a big SnapOn tablet at a trans shop. I did wait 10 min before driving again, and went through the gears, like sent 5sec in P, then 5sec in R, 5 sec in N, then D, back to N. I did this like 2-3 times, then went for a drive. The flare was still there. Am I doing the re-learn correctly?