Mods:
Alta Intercooler, Alta intercooler piping, JCW airbox, 2009 JCW exhaust.


Louise is randomly loosing boost. It's happening on all the maps including the factory JCW tune. I watched it very closely with the JCW tune and it would top out at about 5 PSIg of boost under full throttle. If I keep the pedal all the way down, as RPMs increase, all of the boost goes away.

Under full throttle the AFR stays at 14.5 when I have the loss of boost issue. I normally see the AFR drop to 12.6 when boost is present under full throttle.

Thursday I started the MINI and headed from Mystic to New London (10 miles) and had a low boost. I shut off the MINI and restarted and left New London for Branford (40 miles) and still low boost. After a stop in Brandord (MINI stayed running) I headed for New York City; the boost was working again (JCW tune with 13.2 PSIg at 40 degrees IA temperature).

For the remainder of the drive in NYC and then back to Mystic, CT I had full boost available.

Yesterday I switched back the the RMW tune and no issues whil driving yesterday.

Any ideas??

 

Any CEL's ?
Power loss coinciding with boost gauge reading ?

 

No CELs and the boost loss coincides with the boost gauge.

 

If your not getting any of the typical CEL's for failing or failed componnents, I am leaning more towards an issue with the DME......

 

So here's an update. I've gotten 3 different CELs. Two of them at start up and related to the rough idle when very cold (P0300 and P0304) which are for misfire. The second code received twice is P2188 (fuel too rich at idle)

Still have the ghost boost issue with boost randomly disappearing. When it happened yesterday I was running the factory JCW Tune. I immediately flashed over to the RMW tune and all boost was back.

This leads me to believe that this is not a mechanical issue; HPFP or otherwise. I feel this is sensor related with either an O2 sensor failing or the MAP sensor failing. Any thoughts???

 

Sounds like my problem though can't see boost pressure with my stock car..

When this happens do you also see a 5000rpm rev limit??

Thats what I had, no power, no codes no engine light, but it wont rev over 5000. It then clears and all is Ok I suspected it was a limp mode but no codes??


Tel

 

Is the problem when your shifting fast? If so i know when i shift really fast, the boost builds so quick that the DV stays open venting boost until i let off the throttle and then re apply the throttle. I am on an aggressive tune btw.

 

I have not paid attention to the RPMs but that sounds about right. It happens most often when the MINI is just started and maybe not quite warmed up.

I think it may have to do with the moisture and ice issue in the intake and throttle body. I have ordered the completely redesigned R56 intake from MINI.

 

I know when i have that problem i get a cruise control failure code.

 

So here is an update:

After I got to work this morning I revved the MINI a bit and got the air inlet (AI) temperature up to 80 degrees(the Scangauge is a sweet tool). I kept it there and just let it idle while I was clearing off the parking lot at work.

I let the MINI idle for about a half hour with the AI temp at around 80 degrees so the heated inlet air would clear out any ice or moisture in the intake.

Looks like it worked. I ran the MINI this afternoon and tonight and it ran great. I received no codes and no loss of boost pressure. The MINI was running just like it was summertime. I guess this will work until I install the new redesigned intake manifold or the moisture and ice build back up in the intake manifold.

 

My car has a 5000rpm rev limiter at a standstill. Is this normal?

 

it's called launch control

 

lol I would never dump the clutch at 5000rpm Jan, I need my clutch to last more than 50000km. Plus it would cause too much wheelspin, wouldn't it be better to launch at ~2500rpm?

 

So here's an update. Wednesday morning sfter arriving at work the MINI starts to idle very rough and almost stalling. Then I get a 1/2 engine symbol. I reflash the ECU to factory and when I restarted it does the same thing.

I shut it off a few minutes and then start it again. Everything is running great with no 1/2 engine symbol.

I decide to take it to the dealer and it's diagnosed as the HPFP. That's replace under the extended warranty and I pick up the MINI Thurdsay afternoon.

The MINI runs great. Starts awesome with no stumbling or looking to stall on a cold start up.

Friday afternoon when leaving work I again have no boost and it displays the check engine light with the P1288 code (fuel mixture too rich at idle).

I take the 37 mile trip back to the dealer with no boost until about 1/2 mile from the dealer and then full boost.

I suspect it's the faulty intake manifold design which allows for icing of the throttle body. I have the redesigned R56 intake manifold on hand.

Just waiting to see what is diagnosed as the problem.

 

You know, i have a similar problem to this as well. Here is where I can almost guarantee it will happen.

07, turbo, automatic, RHD, - While in sport mode, with the shifter slid to the left for manual shifting, if I get the revs up high enough 5-6k with full throttle, it will pull GREAT for a bit then cut out, lose all boost. When i bring the revs back down though I still will have no boost. Seems the only way to get it back, is by sliding the shifter back into automatic mode, and taking off sport mode. boost will return at lower rpms, and have good pull through normal driving.

I just picked up my mini and the mods were done by its previous owner, but what I can see so far is Alta Intake, ???? Exhaust - haven't found the mfg yet, and a Perrin Blow Off Valve.

No CEL's or anything like that when this happens.

 

Did the new manifold fix it?

I was going to tell you to check your DV valve, but it looks like you found the issue?

 

So far the problem has not returned. We have a cold snap today and tomorrow so I will keep tabs on it. Here is a pic if the new intake manifold:



The part number is 11-61-4-584-240 (11614584240) and the price after the 20% discount will be around $326.00

It is a brand new item that is flying off the shelves right now.

 

i needed this pic for making a custom pcv block thanks!

 

It was 19 degrees this morning and the boost loss issue appeared again on the way to work. It seems to happen when the MINI is not quiet warmed up. Happened while entering I95; the engine water temp was 164 degrees.

No boost, <5 PSIg the rest of the way to work. Drove the MINI around lunch time; once it warmed up I checked the boost and 14.3 PSIg. No problems and full boost on demand. It's not a tune issue. The dealer reflashed the MINI ECU and I am waiting for Jan to provide a new file with the updated tune.

 

Boost is relevant to ambient temps and engine temps. I know when i start up if by chance i go WOT i may get 10 psi, once warm ill have my full blast *unless* its under 54 degs which it is now and that drops the boost by a good 3-4 1/2 psi. Might not be your issue but this is normal for me

 

What I typically saw before this situation started is I would only get 8 PSIg of boost until the MINI reached 175 degrees water temp. After the 175 degrees water temperature was obtained I would get full boost depending on the ambient temperature. That would be anywhere between 12-15.7 PSIg of boost.

I suspect the MINI is seeing a lean condition dumping the boost. The AFR reading reflects this when it happens. It stays right at 14.6 under full thottle or idle.

 

Double check your intake tract for blockages, take off the hose from the inlet of the turbo and spin the wheel gently to see if the shaft rotates freely or binds up and has a "rough" rotation. Also are you on the jcw specific tune on an mcs?

 

All of the intake path is clear. I have checked all. Yes, running the JCW tune on an MCS. I will check the turbo spin but I suspect it's okay since I just drove about 12 miles and everything was flawless. It's 39 degrees right now. I am beginning to think it might be the pre-CAT O2 sensor.

 

I don't think your boost randomly disappearing has to do with cold ambient temps, but on a side note you guys shouldn't be trying to get full boost when the motor is that cool anyway! (The ecu won't allow it but still...)

Even when you reach first reach 220-225 degrees for coolant temp, your oil temp lags far behind. The oil needs a few minutes longer to come up to full operating temp. Probably not THAT critical...but I'm super **** about not getting on it until everything is properly warmed up. Pet peeve of mine when I hear people rev a cold motor or get on it as soon as they leave their driveway/street.

 

This morning the MINI was flawless. Ambient temperature was 34 degrees going to work. Once the MINI was warmed up I had full boost available. Driving home tonight it was 51 degrees outside and everything worked perfectly.

Typically my MINI is at about 175 degrees water temp when I get to I95. Up until this past December I've had no issues what so ever with loosing boost.

Has anyone documented when you start to see deflection in the AFR numbers after a cold start on the MINI?

I agree with ThumperMCS on allowing your MINI to warm up. After starting my MINI I let it run for at least a minute before moving it. I also keep it under 2,000 RPM until water temperature is at least 130 degrees. Then keep it under 3,000 RPM until water temp is above 150 degrees.

Again I suspect either a O2, MAF or MAP sensor beginning to fail. The dealer has not been able to diagnose the problem.