FYI. Some graphical assistance:

 

BMW Bosh, Audi Bosh, VW, Mitsubishi, MAXX, MoTec, MegaSquirt, and several piggy back systems.

I used to run a local "Speed Shop" that specialized in VW, Audi & Porsche. While not the "best" tuner out there, I can hold my own.

 

Don't worry, I'll be chasing down this issue until I either fix it, or I die.

I checked the car yesterday for boost leaks via a smoke test, didn't find anything. Changed out the spark plugs with my brother's newer JCW, no change. The only thing I can think of that's causing the problem (and it scares me to say it, as I have no warranty) is the high pressure fuel pump.

BTW, the codes that I'm getting are: superknock on cylinders 1 and 2 (and on cyl 4 every now and again).

 

Just saying scales are different, dependant on software

I want to get my ghands on the dimsport Master tool

 

You posed an interesting question, so I went and looked at the scangage with the engine off. But unfortunately the computer is not reading anything when the engine is not running, so the Scangage is left with the last reading when the engine was running. But, with that said, according to the Scangage literature the gage should read 14.7 psi (minus any altidude difference) when the engine is off. When the engine is running at idle then the gage reads ~3 psi, which represents a vacuum. When it goes above ~15 psi, it represents boost. That is why I subtracted the 15 psi (rounding). As you said, all of the mass flow calculations are base on absolute pressure. Seems resonable that the computer is reading pressure that way and the scangage will read the same (not count any programing that you can do to change that).

As for my own car, you got me thinking about seeing how high the boost would go with a more agressive throttle. So I ran a little test and I saw 24+ psi and that was not even maxed out (needed to back off for a stop light ). That would be about 10 psi boost. I am sure it would be even higher if I could have run it a little longer.

 

1 bar is 14.5xxxxpsi , atmospheric pressure is 14.7xx psi, easiest way to read is to actually have a boost gauge. Who wants to do math when your having fun !?

 

Rats! The ALTA spark plugs were a bust. The MINI surged horribly under high throttle. Very consistent mis-fire at 3800rpm. Going to swing by the dealer tomorrow and get some stock plugs.

 

So far I've changed the diverter valve and spark plugs, and done a seafoam-type treatment with subaru Upper Engine cleaner.

No difference. Brilliant

 

If you installed the Alta (Brisk) spark plugs, straight from their boxes, then you will encounter all the issues you mention above, the stock electrode gap is 0.9mm (35.4 thou) this is far too large for our engines, and MUST be reduced to 0.45mm (17.7 thou) approx.

This 0.45mm (17.7 thou) setting is an approximate base line guide setting only, each individual engine will respond differently to the electrode gap adjustment!

 

I gapped them to 0.019-inch (right in the middle of the ALTA recommended band). Which was a pain in and of itself as most spark plug gages don't go this small. I had to pick up feeler gages to do this. I can try knocking it down another 2mil, but I'm looking at the OEM plugs I removed and am having trouble reconciling the difference in gap. The OEM plugs are closer to 25mil.

 

You can't compare the OEM stock spark plugs to the Brisk Silver MR12YS spark plugs, if you have gapped them correctly, you will have no issues whatsoever, with the Brisk Silver spark plugs, trust me.

However with all that said, and you have gapped them correctly, and NOT tapped/knocked the electrode to your desired measured setting, then it is possible, you have a bad set of plugs, so contact your supplier (Alta) and take up the issue with them.

Spark plugs are delicate, and can quite easily be damaged in shipping transit!

 

I didn't tap them to close the gap, I placed a paper towel on my work bench and pressed on the electrode. Just got off the phone with ALTA. He said they had one other customer reporting a similar issue, it turned out his gap was too high, but claimed he'd gapped them properly. I'll pull the plugs and re-gap to double-check. He recommended setting them to the lower end, ~18mil.

 

If you set them to what I advise 0.45mm (17 thou) you will not have any issues whatsoever!

The way you have gapped your spark plugs is WRONG and should NEVER be done this way, this will give you inconsistent radius bends of the electrode tip, leading to inconsistent gaps, you must only ever set your electrode gap, by means of a spark plug setting tool, this will give consistent gap sizing, and complete control when adjusting the electrode, and NEVER EVER pry against the centre core of the spark plug, to open up the gap, again you MUST use the spark plug gap setting tool.

 

I like your use of caps and text color. Very dramatic.

Fact is, I do realize the arc of the ground electrode could play into the performance of the plug. That said, I had few options for setting a gap this small. I'll see if I can find some gapping pliers - assuming this is what you're recommending since a google search results in at least 10 different methods and tools for gapping plugs (my approach included) and your post is pretty nebulous (pretty colors notwithstanding). Thanks for your advice, I do appreciate it.

 

They extended the warranty on HPFP's to 6yr/120k....not sure if that's just in North America though.....

 

Just FYI - But, part of the function of the direct fuel injection used on the 07s and beyond is to cool the cylinder and piston to prevent knock. In the old days you could not run a turbo with 11:1 compression ratio, as the Mini does, without destroying it very quickly. Most turbo engines back in the day ran less than 8:1 which made them whimps around town.

So, not saying it is, but you could be onto something with the fuel pump and all the knock you are getting. Sorry but they are known to go bad (mine has been replaced).

 

I also had a knocking issue with my 2008 mini cooper mellow yellow S. It can be traced to alot of different issues. I like to get right in there. Being that the alternator is located so closely to the cat alot of heat is generated. I went ahead with the replacement of that to ensure that it had all the power I could get. Then I change the spark plugs ngk ix's. then I replaced all the coil packs from bavarian as needed to begin with Its a interesting issue with the coil packs. Every time you wash your car at a automatic car wash you stand the risk of getting the packs soiled then they rust on the sleeves I had three of the four packs with rust on them I replaced the the car had no knocking what so ever. This was also done with a ALTERNATOR REPLACEMENT EVEN THOUGH IT IS A 2008($$$$). but now it runs fine in that respect with the knocking issue. I have alot of old mechinec knowlege dad owned a porshe audi shop in the 70's I know how to use a 2 inch circle mirror if anything else. What I am getting at is that alternator and the trouble codes that i had(according to the bavarian tech software obd2 type stuff)was saying that I had low power along with this knocking issue in different sectors of the electrical system. This low power issue causing things to not quite work weather it be because of a off top dead center type of start on a hill in a hot parking lot type of thing. IS STILL A LOW POWER ISSUE JUST BECAUSE THE CODE CAME UP ONCE AND NEVER OCCURED AGAIN DOES NOT MEAN THERE WAS NO REASON FOR A LOW POWER POSSIBILITY WITH OTHER SUGGESTIONS OF WHAT THE ANSWER MIGHT BE WHEN i read the software code answers. answer Alternator.